Car Stalls When You Step On The Clutch
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Car Stalls When You Step On The Clutch
So I went WOT the other day and I heard a loud pop sound.
It turns out I blew off my ARC BOV connection pipe that is connected to the LICP.
When I got home I pulled out the P0102 code on my Accessport and I told my self my MAF is dead.
I checked the Voltage of the MAF on my Accessport and it turns out that it is not dead, it is reading a steady 1.6 to 1.7 volts on idle.
So I cleared the code on my accessport and the P0102 code was gone.
The car idles perfect in Neutral position, but when you step on the clutch all the way the car stumbles and stalls asap.
Then the check engine light apprears with the P0102 code.
I bought a replcement MAF and tried it out and it is doing the same thing when you step on the clutch all the way the car will stall.
I checked all the Vacuum lines, the FPR lines that is near the dip stick and everything is connected.
I also checked all the IC pipes and intake hoses and they are securely tightened down.
Anybody experience this probem before?
I need some help to resove this problem, thanks guys.
It turns out I blew off my ARC BOV connection pipe that is connected to the LICP.
When I got home I pulled out the P0102 code on my Accessport and I told my self my MAF is dead.
I checked the Voltage of the MAF on my Accessport and it turns out that it is not dead, it is reading a steady 1.6 to 1.7 volts on idle.
So I cleared the code on my accessport and the P0102 code was gone.
The car idles perfect in Neutral position, but when you step on the clutch all the way the car stumbles and stalls asap.
Then the check engine light apprears with the P0102 code.
I bought a replcement MAF and tried it out and it is doing the same thing when you step on the clutch all the way the car will stall.
I checked all the Vacuum lines, the FPR lines that is near the dip stick and everything is connected.
I also checked all the IC pipes and intake hoses and they are securely tightened down.
Anybody experience this probem before?
I need some help to resove this problem, thanks guys.
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Are you still on the stock clutch? If so, I would check your clutch master cylinder...check near the clutch pedal area to see if it is wet with brake fluid. Are you still able to shift?
#4
Was just talking about preloading an engine today with low pressure vacuum @ school today (wyotech) This will cause a motor to stall when the clutch is engaged! I would think that you have a leak on your bov! Your IAC may have crapped out as well but everyone will say do a boost leak test
#5
Was just talking about preloading an engine today with low pressure vacuum @ school today (wyotech) This will cause a motor to stall when the clutch is engaged! I would think that you have a leak on your bov! Your IAC may have crapped out as well but everyone will say do a boost leak test
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Was just talking about preloading an engine today with low pressure vacuum @ school today (wyotech) This will cause a motor to stall when the clutch is engaged! I would think that you have a leak on your bov! Your IAC may have crapped out as well but everyone will say do a boost leak test
Or I will dry disconnecting the IAC Valve, it worked on my EVO VIII before when I was having probems with idle issues.
I think the 100 Meth I was running before messed up the IAC Valve. I hope I a wrong and it is just a simple BOV issue.
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here's my assessment..maf not recognizing or learning the current airflow or whatever it's called ..i know you've reset the code through AP..but sometimes, it's better to reset by resetting through removing the negative terminal..it'll reset everything..you need to remove the negative battery terminal for 30sec-5min (i'd do it 5mins)..if my assumption is correct, your maf needs to re-learn/re-adjust again..the last it learned/read was the popping of your bov hose..
i say start from there..that's just me..
on a side note..damn really love that FQ400 kit!
i say start from there..that's just me..
on a side note..damn really love that FQ400 kit!
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Replaced the BOV with an OEM one, checked for boost leaks via spraying the couplers with Carb Cleaner, no leaks.
The engine is still stalling when you step on the clutch.
I also disconnected the Negative terminal but to no avail.
The engine is still stalling when you step on the clutch.
I also disconnected the Negative terminal but to no avail.
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Okay I fixed the problem, the only way the car will not stall on neutral or in any gear is that you step on the clutch only at 35% to 40%.
Anything more than 50% the engine stalls, but I can finally drive the car.
Who shifts in gears while pushing the clutch all the way anyways, the most is %35 percent when you want to change the gears while driving.
But I still cannot figure out that when you step on the clutch all the way the engine stalls.
I have an ACT Clutch and ACT Flywheel.
At least I can drive the car again without stalling.
Anything more than 50% the engine stalls, but I can finally drive the car.
Who shifts in gears while pushing the clutch all the way anyways, the most is %35 percent when you want to change the gears while driving.
But I still cannot figure out that when you step on the clutch all the way the engine stalls.
I have an ACT Clutch and ACT Flywheel.
At least I can drive the car again without stalling.
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It sounds like clutch/clutch master cylinder/clutch slave cylinder issue. Check your clutch slave cylinder and the rod length to the clutch fork, make sure there is no play and it is within spec.
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Does it count that the car is pushing 500whp on E85.
Maybe my Clutch Master Cylinder is about to give out?
What do you think?
But when I step on the clutch 100% and the engine stalls it is giving me the P0102 or Low Volume Air Code.
I checked for boost leaks and vacuum leaks via spraying it with carb choke cleaner and there are no leaks.
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