AWDTerror

iTrader: (2)

Hopefully somewhere down the line, someone who is looking to install this piece, who will actually take the time to search the forums will find this post and take note of the things that I have come across while installing this piece, and other random items.

First thing - Taking all the parts on to get to the CMC really isn't that bad, which I thought it would be. In all I probably spent 45min taking the ecu and all the bracketry, moving the wiring harness, brake master and booster out.

Second thing - On the brake booster, there is a gasket that sits inbetween the booster and the master on a lip on the booster. I had this gasket come off and fall inside the booster, which I was able to retrieve fairly easily, while not a catastrophic thing, it could cause a leak within the booster, causing issues with the power assisted braking.

Third - The biggest pain in the *** was grinding the nubs out. I used a burr bit like the instructions suggested, but ultimately went with a dremel with a cut-off wheel, because it ground through the material so much faster. Yes there is sparks with this method, but the whole area is surrounded in fire retardant lining, so the risk of fire is minimal. I used a shop vac to clean up the shavings.

Fourth - I highly recommend that you remove the restrictor in the clutch slave, it makes driving a lot better. Also it is possible to route the new SS line just like factory.

Fifth - All those who said that the Magnus CMC engages higher...rubbish...I was able to adjust mine and it engages just like stock.

Sixth - When putting everything back together, make sure you tighten down all the bolts...especially the one that holds the cable from the alternator on the distribution block. It could cause you headaches when you are driving down the road and your car dies. Ask me how I know.

Seventh - When removing the bolts for the studs you are grinding off and when you go to tighten down your new master cyl from the inside of the car, remove the small ecu that is there, it's one 10mm bolt and its out of the way providing your hands with much needed room.

Eighth - When you are bleeding the brakes, don't forget that Brembo's have 2 bleeder screws. (Inside and outside)

That is all.

tephra

iTrader: (6)

nice

i have to check my BB gasket now... u got me worried... I dont even remember seeing it... unless it stayed stuck to the firewall..

AWDTerror

iTrader: (2)

It's not the one on the firewall, it's the one that goes in between the brake booster and the master cyl. It's just a round rubber o-ring type gasket.

tephra

iTrader: (6)

ahhh.. well that makes it easier..

ill go have a look..

AWDTerror

iTrader: (2)

Here is a picture from HollywoodX instructions. Circled in red is where the o-ring goes. His is still stuck on the brake booster.

tephra

iTrader: (6)

yeh ok..

i think mines still on, as I was really careful when pulling the BMC off (coz of the devil juice it holds)

and there was DEFINITLEY NO gasket stuck to the BB, because I cleaned it totally...

but I will double check with a quick visual inspection in a bit..

AWDTerror

iTrader: (2)

Devil juice...I like that....btw I got that stuff all over the floor, I was pretty careful around the car though. I think people often underestimate the destructive nature of the juice.

tephra

iTrader: (6)

ugh I got it pretty much everywhere..

wipedown + degreaser + copies amounts of water seemed to get rid of it...

AWDTerror

iTrader: (2)

Brake fluid is water soluble, so water usually does the trick, but it's better to be safe than sorry.

BoricuaEVOX

I've disconnected the brake booster from the brake pedal and cylinder. I can't remove the booster itself out of the way It either snags on the battery cable bracket, intake tube, or strut bar.