How to retrofit FX-R projectors into SSS headlights
Nov 24, 2010, 03:34 PM
#1
How to retrofit FX-R projectors into SSS headlights
Hey guys,
After starting this thread:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ght-setup.html
I realized that there is not much that can be done to improve our stock E55 Bi-Xenon projectors except to change out the lens for some clear ZKW-R lenses.
After looking around on-line and talking to Stevo (ievoVii) it became clear that the best projectors for my needs (avoiding deer) were the FX-R projectors. I spent a few days talking with Stevo going over the pros/cons and risks involved and decided to take the plunge.
Everything you will see below are pics provided by myself, Stevo or found online. I want to stress that I would not have attempted this without his guidance. I had not even seen what a HID projector looks like until I decided to rip into my headlight assemblies. That being said, it’s not hard at all and so worth it.
Preparation - Remove each Headlight assembly from the car, place on a bench/table and aim at a wall. Connect a 12v source (battery/power supply) to the ballast input (ensure polarity) and use tape to mark the beam pattern on the wall. You will use this as your reference later. See pic below
Step 1. – Remove the headlight assemblies, remove all wiring and pull the clear plastic covers off. You can use the oven method or the Stevo Heat gun method. Here is a thread to help with that --> http://www.i64x.com/upload/HIDBLACKHOWTOFILE.pdf
If you are nervous about this step, stop now and put your headlights back on the car, you are not ready to risk your $1500 (or whatever) pair of headlight assemblies.
Step 2. Remove the 3 screws that hold the bottom trim piece as seen here:
Once you remove the trim piece above, you will now have a better look at the chrome reflector/trim pieces – note these have been blacked out.
At this point you will not be able to directly remove the chrome reflectors/trim pieces. These are screwed in from the backside to the sub-frame shown below:
Step 3. Remove the Headlight sub-frame/chrome reflector assembly. To do this first locate the clip shown below and squeeze the tabs with two small screwdrivers. Another pair of hands does come in handy as you will need some way to pull the assembly away while the two tabs are pushed in. This is the clip in the far (outside) corner.
Now look on the back of the assembly under the DRL bulb cover and locate the white clip. Pry the clip OFF THE BALL AND SOCKET, not off the sub-frame. Look at the below pic for clarity. I used a tire iron and simply twisted it. You can’t see it in this pic, but you will be prying against the ball and socket top piece, not the plastic headlight assembly. Be careful, and think about what you’re doing.
Now for the last clip, I found the easiest way to remove this clip is to unscrew it from the back of the assembly itself. It is a captive screw and cannot fall out, instead it will simply push the clip off of it. A word of caution, this is one of the headlight adjustment screws…so you will change your headlight alignment . It’s no big deal as you can dial it back in with this screw later on. Here is a decent pic I found:
Congrats so far, you should now have the sub-frame/reflector assembly out as pictured in step 2.
Step 4. Remove the chrome reflector/trim pieces by removing the screws that attach it to the sub-frame.
Step 5. Remove the 4 screws that hold the E55 projector into the assembly
(not an evo pic)
Step 6. – Now the scary bit, you will need to use a dremel to cut off the majority of the E55 sub-frame mount. There needs to be 10mm height left afterwards. Use caution and try to cut as flat as possible. Take your time, you will ruin your headlights if you rush this.
Step 7 – test fit the FX-R projectors into the sub-frame, attach sub-frame back to actual headlight assembly and run another test pattern on the wall to test alignment. Do not worry if it’s above or below the original pattern, just check for rotational alignment. If all looks good, mark where you want to drill the mounting holes for the projector into the sub-frame. You will most likely only get 3 screws to work, the fourth is usually zip tied in place.
Step 8. Solder the High beam solenoid (two red wires) from the FX-R into the headlight assembly wiring harness. When you bought the FX-R's they should have came with a female connected with red and black leads. just color match the leads to the wiring harness and you should be golden.
Step 9. Re-attach chrome reflector/trim pieces and re assemble the headlight in the reverse order and align the lights as necessary.
Light output is 8-10 feet wider on each side (I think). These pictures do not do it justice:
Lowbeam:
High Beam:
Comparison of E55 to FX-R at HID planet – look for “E55 with ZKW-Replica Clear Lens” vs “FX with FX-Replica Clear Lens” Also note, that our evo’s do not have clear lenses, so E55 output shown on HID planet is more than a stock Evo X will get.
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/content.php?2-Bi-Xenon-Output-Comparison-TL-E55-Murano-FX-IS-e46-LR3
After starting this thread:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ght-setup.html
I realized that there is not much that can be done to improve our stock E55 Bi-Xenon projectors except to change out the lens for some clear ZKW-R lenses.
After looking around on-line and talking to Stevo (ievoVii) it became clear that the best projectors for my needs (avoiding deer) were the FX-R projectors. I spent a few days talking with Stevo going over the pros/cons and risks involved and decided to take the plunge.
Everything you will see below are pics provided by myself, Stevo or found online. I want to stress that I would not have attempted this without his guidance. I had not even seen what a HID projector looks like until I decided to rip into my headlight assemblies. That being said, it’s not hard at all and so worth it.
Preparation - Remove each Headlight assembly from the car, place on a bench/table and aim at a wall. Connect a 12v source (battery/power supply) to the ballast input (ensure polarity) and use tape to mark the beam pattern on the wall. You will use this as your reference later. See pic below
Step 1. – Remove the headlight assemblies, remove all wiring and pull the clear plastic covers off. You can use the oven method or the Stevo Heat gun method. Here is a thread to help with that --> http://www.i64x.com/upload/HIDBLACKHOWTOFILE.pdf
If you are nervous about this step, stop now and put your headlights back on the car, you are not ready to risk your $1500 (or whatever) pair of headlight assemblies.
Step 2. Remove the 3 screws that hold the bottom trim piece as seen here:
Once you remove the trim piece above, you will now have a better look at the chrome reflector/trim pieces – note these have been blacked out.
At this point you will not be able to directly remove the chrome reflectors/trim pieces. These are screwed in from the backside to the sub-frame shown below:
Step 3. Remove the Headlight sub-frame/chrome reflector assembly. To do this first locate the clip shown below and squeeze the tabs with two small screwdrivers. Another pair of hands does come in handy as you will need some way to pull the assembly away while the two tabs are pushed in. This is the clip in the far (outside) corner.
Now look on the back of the assembly under the DRL bulb cover and locate the white clip. Pry the clip OFF THE BALL AND SOCKET, not off the sub-frame. Look at the below pic for clarity. I used a tire iron and simply twisted it. You can’t see it in this pic, but you will be prying against the ball and socket top piece, not the plastic headlight assembly. Be careful, and think about what you’re doing.
Now for the last clip, I found the easiest way to remove this clip is to unscrew it from the back of the assembly itself. It is a captive screw and cannot fall out, instead it will simply push the clip off of it. A word of caution, this is one of the headlight adjustment screws…so you will change your headlight alignment . It’s no big deal as you can dial it back in with this screw later on. Here is a decent pic I found:
Congrats so far, you should now have the sub-frame/reflector assembly out as pictured in step 2.
Step 4. Remove the chrome reflector/trim pieces by removing the screws that attach it to the sub-frame.
Step 5. Remove the 4 screws that hold the E55 projector into the assembly
(not an evo pic)Step 6. – Now the scary bit, you will need to use a dremel to cut off the majority of the E55 sub-frame mount. There needs to be 10mm height left afterwards. Use caution and try to cut as flat as possible. Take your time, you will ruin your headlights if you rush this.
Step 7 – test fit the FX-R projectors into the sub-frame, attach sub-frame back to actual headlight assembly and run another test pattern on the wall to test alignment. Do not worry if it’s above or below the original pattern, just check for rotational alignment. If all looks good, mark where you want to drill the mounting holes for the projector into the sub-frame. You will most likely only get 3 screws to work, the fourth is usually zip tied in place.
Step 8. Solder the High beam solenoid (two red wires) from the FX-R into the headlight assembly wiring harness. When you bought the FX-R's they should have came with a female connected with red and black leads. just color match the leads to the wiring harness and you should be golden.
Step 9. Re-attach chrome reflector/trim pieces and re assemble the headlight in the reverse order and align the lights as necessary.
Light output is 8-10 feet wider on each side (I think). These pictures do not do it justice:
Lowbeam:
High Beam:
Comparison of E55 to FX-R at HID planet – look for “E55 with ZKW-Replica Clear Lens” vs “FX with FX-Replica Clear Lens” Also note, that our evo’s do not have clear lenses, so E55 output shown on HID planet is more than a stock Evo X will get.
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/content.php?2-Bi-Xenon-Output-Comparison-TL-E55-Murano-FX-IS-e46-LR3
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