Dealer says 0w20 oil ok for Evo??
Nov 5, 2011, 02:20 AM
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Dealer says 0w20 oil ok for Evo??
Just had my 5 mo. service today and the service manager said the Evo X is now approved to run 0w20 synthetic. I told them the manual states Mobil1 5w30 but they said their computer says to use 0w20. So they filled it with Mitsubishi Synthetic 0w20 and sent me on my way. Has anyone heard of this before? Is this even safe?
Nov 5, 2011, 10:00 AM
#4
if your just going to commute, I think it would be okay for the next few thousand miles. It is winter time, and as long as you aren't going to push it.
Really, I would think if you absolutely couldn't get 5w30 or 10w30...going to the Mobil1 synthetic diesel weight stuff is a better option then 0w20.
Really, I would think if you absolutely couldn't get 5w30 or 10w30...going to the Mobil1 synthetic diesel weight stuff is a better option then 0w20.
Nov 6, 2011, 02:12 PM
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In Georgia winter weather? No way. The only thing that's going to give you is a fraction of a mpg better fuel economy and additional bearing and turbo wear at WOT.
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Nov 6, 2011, 02:29 PM
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no, i would not use that oil. for a short time, and not pushing the car, and in the winter, you can get away with it. but i would either tell the dealer there idiots, go to a diff dealer, or better yet learn to do it yourself (super easy, 30mins, a few beers, and done).
everyone swears by different oil weights. built engine require this, break in miles require something different, this builder uses oil A, this builder oil B. race motors, this, DD/traffic that.
if your still going to the dealer i would assume stock like motor and new so just stick with stock. the oil cap should have the proper weight on it.
i prefer 5w40 or 10w40 if i can find it. track time i might go heavier but im also changing it more frequently. drain it, do it again with the proper oil
everyone swears by different oil weights. built engine require this, break in miles require something different, this builder uses oil A, this builder oil B. race motors, this, DD/traffic that.
if your still going to the dealer i would assume stock like motor and new so just stick with stock. the oil cap should have the proper weight on it.
i prefer 5w40 or 10w40 if i can find it. track time i might go heavier but im also changing it more frequently. drain it, do it again with the proper oil
Nov 7, 2011, 04:24 AM
#12
Stock engine or lightly modifyed? If it's yes , then use the OEM spec oils. Everything is the service manual/owner manual...
0-20 is unlikelly will do anygood for you. 0 means very light when its cold the oil. The main number you have to pay attention is the second number. Since the evo engine is "loose" from the factory I highly doubt the 20 will be a good choice.
I wonder why dealer recommend things like this?
0-20 is unlikelly will do anygood for you. 0 means very light when its cold the oil. The main number you have to pay attention is the second number. Since the evo engine is "loose" from the factory I highly doubt the 20 will be a good choice.
I wonder why dealer recommend things like this?
Nov 7, 2011, 08:03 AM
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Your dealer is a moron and was probably looking at base lancer data. 0W-30 or 5W-30 are what you need. These engines shear the hell out of motor oil, your 20 weight will shear down to a 10 weight in less than 3000 miles 
.
I have done extensive oil analysis, and have never seen M1 5w-30 remain at a 30 weight after 3000 miles, so I doubt their 0w-20 will be any better, probably worse. The only oil I have seen remain at a 30 weight after a run in a 4B11T is Amsoil 5w-30, which is still a 30 weight after ~4500 miles.
. I have done extensive oil analysis, and have never seen M1 5w-30 remain at a 30 weight after 3000 miles, so I doubt their 0w-20 will be any better, probably worse. The only oil I have seen remain at a 30 weight after a run in a 4B11T is Amsoil 5w-30, which is still a 30 weight after ~4500 miles.
i couldn't agree more with you.