new DW65 car won't start
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new DW65 car won't start
Well I bought my 2010 MR touring last October as a weekend car and didn't drive it over the winter. I started driving it again in April and everything was going perfect until May 24th. The weekend prior (May 18th) I parked the Evo with the gas warning light on, I had to get home in a hurry and wasn't able to stop at the gas station on my way home. No big deal, I have a gas station 2 miles from my house and was going to make that my first priority when I drove the car again. Unfortunately on May 24th, when I went to start the car, it wouldn't. I noticed the fuel pump didn't prime but I tired to start it anyway. After two attempts, I thought for sure that I ran the tank dry and burned up the fuel pump. Just in case, I walked to the gas station and got 5 gallons of 91 and put it in the tank and tried to prime the pump, but nothing. No prime, no start.
Solution, buy a new fuel pump. I bought a DW65 from MAP and it arrived last week. Tonight was my first chance to install the pump. The install was easy and only took about a half hour to forty-five minutes. When I go to prime the new pump, it doesn't. Instead I get this loud clicking noise when I turn the key to the ON position. The car does crank as you can see at the end of the video, but it just won't start.
Here is a video of it:
I swapped the highbeam relay with the fuel pump relay and tested the highbeams. The highbeams worked just fine. Not sure if the swap test is applicable with my MR touring though. I then proceeded to shake each relay (Fuel Pump, MFI, Throttle Actuator, Injector, Highbeam, Horn) and everything sounded fine.
Not sure what to do next.
Solution, buy a new fuel pump. I bought a DW65 from MAP and it arrived last week. Tonight was my first chance to install the pump. The install was easy and only took about a half hour to forty-five minutes. When I go to prime the new pump, it doesn't. Instead I get this loud clicking noise when I turn the key to the ON position. The car does crank as you can see at the end of the video, but it just won't start.
Here is a video of it:
I swapped the highbeam relay with the fuel pump relay and tested the highbeams. The highbeams worked just fine. Not sure if the swap test is applicable with my MR touring though. I then proceeded to shake each relay (Fuel Pump, MFI, Throttle Actuator, Injector, Highbeam, Horn) and everything sounded fine.
Not sure what to do next.
Last edited by morethansamson; Jun 28, 2013 at 09:43 AM.
#5
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It could be the battery. But if the OP drove it the day before, and then the next day it wouldn't start, then it might be the alternator. But it could be a bad battery and I would check that first. I would take the battery to autozone and get it tested. The clicking sound kind of sounds like a starter. Maybe if the battery is bad the starter isn't getting enough juice?
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I believe the car was originally purchased in early 2010. I am the second owner. Now that I look through the warranty manual, it says the fuel pump is covered under the 5 year 50,000 mile drive train warranty.
I'm certain the car isn't blacklisted, so do you think that I would be eligible as the second owner to have this issue covered under warranty?
If so, and if I can't get the car working using some of the recommendations that have come in, I will install the original fuel pump back into the car and tow it to a dealership.
I'm certain the car isn't blacklisted, so do you think that I would be eligible as the second owner to have this issue covered under warranty?
If so, and if I can't get the car working using some of the recommendations that have come in, I will install the original fuel pump back into the car and tow it to a dealership.
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I'm not sure it is the battery, because although I didn't drive the Evo over the winter, I would start it every other week and drive it around the block if there was no snow on the ground to get to full temperature and get the fluids moving. My garage is heated as well so I wasn't too concerned with fluids. On days where it was snowing or there was snow on the road, I would turn it on and let it idle for a little bit and reverse back and forward in my garage (4 car tandem) just to get the flat spots out of the tires. So although I didn't put a tender to it, that car was started often enough in the winter I would think. But, you never know.
All of the lights turn on full strength and the nav unit and stereo and headlights work perfectly also, but at this point I am desperate to get this car going so I'll try everything.
All of the lights turn on full strength and the nav unit and stereo and headlights work perfectly also, but at this point I am desperate to get this car going so I'll try everything.
#9
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If you drove the car, the alternator should have charged up the battery. If it didn't, then usually it is either a bad alternator, or a bad battery. If possible I would just have the battery tested.
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Thanks again for the suggestion, I will take the battery to get tested. Unfortunately my multimeter is in someone else's possession right now.
If the battery was weak, would this cause the fuel pump not to prime?
If the battery was weak, would this cause the fuel pump not to prime?
#11
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I'm not sure it is the battery, because although I didn't drive the Evo over the winter, I would start it every other week and drive it around the block if there was no snow on the ground to get to full temperature and get the fluids moving. My garage is heated as well so I wasn't too concerned with fluids. On days where it was snowing or there was snow on the road, I would turn it on and let it idle for a little bit and reverse back and forward in my garage (4 car tandem) just to get the flat spots out of the tires. So although I didn't put a tender to it, that car was started often enough in the winter I would think. But, you never know.
All of the lights turn on full strength and the nav unit and stereo and headlights work perfectly also, but at this point I am desperate to get this car going so I'll try everything.
All of the lights turn on full strength and the nav unit and stereo and headlights work perfectly also, but at this point I am desperate to get this car going so I'll try everything.
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Thank you for this information. I didn't know that the alternator wouldn't charge the battery if the car was kept below a certain rpm. I kept it under 3K driving around the neighborhood.
I will take the battery to get tested today.
I will take the battery to get tested today.
I believe that for the alternator to charge the battery, the car must be driven over a certain rpm. I am not 100% sure, but if this is the case, then letting it idle or driving around the block will probably not charge it. Also if the battery is going bad, the alternator will not be able to charge it because the battery simply wont hold the charge. Also your lights don't require alot of juice. The battery will be tested when you try starting the car. Thats when max load is put on the battery.
Last edited by morethansamson; Jun 28, 2013 at 08:37 AM.
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That could be some valuable information. Have you tried it? In am just as skeptical when it comes to advice from the dealer.
I was told that if you are going to store your car or awhile to pull the yellow tab up. It is located at the left side in the fuse box. This is suppose to cut the power from the battery and causing less battery drain. The dealer told me this so I don't know how accurate this information is
#15
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If you look at it, it looks designed to be pulled up with ease. So I think the information is legit.