Monkeymypants00

Hello people so I have read a couple of posts here on idle issues and can't seems to find any solution.

2011 EVO GSR
39k miles
Stage 1 Cobb with CHFF

So when coming to a stop ( rolling 10 mph in neutral ) rpms stay high around 1.4k and slowly will go down to 900 after I 100% stop ( sometimes will bound between 1.2k - 900 for 2 second ) . I have checked all lines no leaks that I can see or hear. I also have checked the line near the oil dip stick that is on tight. I had the same issue when I was stock but not as dramatic it would idle 1.1k then go back down.

Am I missing something that is on here ?
Or could it just be the flash tune ?
I have been driving with the flash tune for 2 days now.
I had a turbosmart BOV 50/50 installed on first day of flash tune and it would not close all the way even on tightest setting. So I took it off and put the stocker on.

Please help !!!!!

SaVaGe_x

When I had my cobb stage 1 tune my idle was real ****ty. Its most likely just the cobb OTS tune.

jakgal04

iTrader: (1)

I think thats normal, mines been doing that since I bought it.

sam.bizzle

This idle behavior drives me CRAZY.

Tuner said there was nothing he could do, it's just the way evo's are. I feel like he knows best, but there has to be a way.

I test drove an evo that was tuned before I bought mine (stock) last year, and it did NOT do this.

I've searched and searched and never found a fix related to this exact issue.

Monkeymypants00

Same makes me feel like something is wrong but people keep saying its normal so i guess i will deal with it.

static_set

Mine has done that since the day I got it.


Always makes me look like a shifty noob until the engine warms up too. Never had a car that couldn't compensate for the engine temperature like this... I sometimes wonder if it's for these reasons that Mitsubishi is slowly dying in the US.

I also love the (apparently normal) "mivec drop" the car does sometimes when pushing in the clutch while slowly rolling to a stop...


Cant get enough of these drive-by-wire throttles.

jakgal04

iTrader: (1)

You can edit the map to change the idle values to 1000 instead of the stock 700 or whatever it is. Completely solved it for me, plus I like the idle a bit higher.

sam.bizzle

I had my idle bumped up to 1000 also when I got my tune, however it didn't fix the issue.

On cold start it idles all over the place..

When warmed up, if cruising and I press the clutch, idle will drop to ~700, then come up to around ~1300 and stay there until I'm totally stopped. That's when it comes back down to 1000. Might just be something I never get used to

For reference:
UICP
Intake
Test Pipe
CBE
3 Port
Tune

Kevin Lock

same problem.

jakgal04

iTrader: (1)

What kind of intakes do you guys have? When the engine is warm the idle RPM can fluctuate, especially if there's no intake heat shield. On cold starts its fairly normally for it to idle around 2k and then casually drop to the coded RPM value.

sam.bizzle

Depo intake, running the shield. Behaved this way before and after intake install so I've ruled that out.

Pretty sure it's just something I have to live with at this point.

xiLLtegRax

i have up and down idle on cold start up but doesnt seem to have too much issues when warm.
called the tuner and pretty much told me that its nothing to do with the tune.... i wonder....

BStalzer12

sounds normal, dipping to 900 won't do any damage anyway