RallySport Direct Tomei EXPREME Titanium Exhaust / Turbo back How To / Installation
May 28, 2013, 07:06 PM
#1
Tomei EXPREME Titanium Exhaust / Turbo back How To By RallySport Direct
RallySport Direct Presents How to Install Tomei EXPREME Turbo Back Exhaust System
Tools Needed
PB Blast (for those old rusty bolts)
Ratchet
Extension
10mm socket
12mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
14mm wrench
17mm wrench
O2 Socket
Pliers
And something to trim plastic with
Lets start with Tomei Expreme Downpipe Big Mouth
What is included
Two Part Down Pipe
Exhaust Clamp
New Turbo to Downpipe Gasket
Extra O2 Bung Plug with Copper Washer
2 New Nuts (For the Cat to Downpipe bolts)
New Stud
Tomei's Bolt-Smooth-Paste
Great quality welds that look good. You know you are getting a quality piece with this
The First Step we did before getting under the car was to remove the Heat Shield that is bolted onto the Manifold and Down Pipe
Start by removing the plastic cover the covers your engine.
To remove simply pull up on it gently with one hand on the back and front.
It is held on by 4 rubber mounts that are on the engine
Remove your Strut Tower Brace as well to give you more room to work with.
You will need a 14mm socket or wrench for the 6 nuts and 2 bolts that hold this on.
3- 14mm nuts Located at the top of each strut
2-14mm bolts in the center mounted to the cowl/ firewall
You will now have much better access to the heat shield located on the back of the motor.
Locate the 5- 10mm bolts that hold the heat shield to the manifold and down pipe.
3- 10mm bolts located on top of the heat shield mounted to the manifold
2- 10mm bolts located on the lower back and side to the down pipe.
Once you have removed the heat shield you will now be able to see the down pipe.
There are 5 bolts and 1 Nut all being 14mm size.
(I recommend PB Blasting these bolts to help break them loose with out breaking)
(Our down pipe bracket bolt was already broken off and is still in the down pipe.)
Next We lifted our car up to work on the underside while the Turbo to Down Pope bolts soak in PB Blast
Using a O2 sensor socket we removed the the O2 Sensor and Wide band sensor in the exhaust.
We removed the Cat section next
There are 2- 17mm bolts on each end of the cat section 4 total.
Use a 12mm socket to remove the bolt that holds the exhaust to the hanger.
This is much easier than removing the hanger with the exhaust on it.
Removal of the lower part of the down pipe will require a 17mm socket or wrench.
An extension will be needed if using a socket or some maneuvering of your arm to get a wrench onto the two 17mm spring bolts that are holding the lower portion of the down pipe up.
Once you have removed the lower half of the down pipe you will now have more access to the turbo for getting the mouth of the down pipe off.
Using a 14mm socket and ratchet carefully remove the 4 bolts holding the down pipe to the turbo.
(Use PB Blast while backing out the bolts to help them come out while you back them out)
Do not forget the 1 14mm nut on the bottom back side of the housing. Its hard to see from up top, but its on the lower back side and can get to it from the bottom.
Once you undo all of the bolts you will need to pull this portion of the down pipe out through the top of the motor.
A comparison of the Stock Down Pipe vs. the Tomei
Tomei's bigger diameter and smother design
Big Mouth Opening
I like that they surface the flange face smooth for a nice even flat surface for the gasket
Using the provided Tomei Bolt-Smooth-Paste apply this to new stud provided with the new Tomei Down Pipe.
A little bit on the threads is all that is needed.
Spread this evenly over the threads and do this for all the studs and bolts. This will make life easier down the road if needed to remove in the future.
Install the lower stud into the down pipe. This will help guide the down pipe onto the turbo and hold the new provided gasket in place.
Use two nuts installed on the stud like show below to tighten the stud into the down pipe.
Always consult the installation instructions provide for questions
Slide the the two parts of the down pipe together with the provided clamp on.
(Note you will want to snug up the clamp, but do not fully tighten yet. You will want to still be able to rotate it as need to line up with the rest of the exhaust.)
Tomei has thought ahead for you and made their down pipe with a 2nd O2 bung for those running a AFR sensor on their cars.
If your car is not running a AFR sensor no worries. Tomei has provided you with a extra bung plug.
This would be the time to install this plug before putting the down pipe in the car.
Install your new gasket that has been provided and be ready to install your new Tomei Down Pipe.
See how this is the incorrect way to try and install your down pipe as it is simply much to big to fit.
Install the new Tomei down pipe from the top of the engine bay.
Set it gently into place to rest safely while you lift the car to gain access to the bottom of the car to align the down pipe with your turbo.
From below you can now align the down pipe properly.
Reaching in from the wheel well can help you align and hold the down pipe in place while the bolts are all installed.
(Placing a little Tomei Bolt-Smooth-Paste on all bolts before installing as well)
From down here you can install the nut that goes on the stud that is not easy to get to from the wheel well.
You can now align the lower portion of the down pipe and instal your O2 sensor and ARF Sensor.
Tighten all of your bolts once everything is aligned.
With your Cat removed and down pipe installed removal of your cat back exhaust will be simple.
This exhaust system has seen better days.
You will need a 17mm socket and ratchet and some PB Blast to remove the spring bolts and slide the hangers off the exhaust.
The Cat Back is made up of 2 parts. The Mid Pipe and the Muffler section.
Having an extra hand to lower the exhaust after removing the hangers will help. (Use a little PB Blast on the metal hangers will help to slip the rubber exhaust hangers off)
Now that the stock exhaust has been removed you will be ready for your Tomei Test pipe and cat back install.
(Recommend wearing gloves when installing the Titanium exhaust to not leave finger prints on the exhaust)
Lets start with the Test pipe section.
Included will be the test pipe with a place for your factory O2 sensor
4 new nuts
4 new bolts
2 new gaskets
Bolt-Smooth Paste
and a zip tie for your O2 sensor wiring to be tied back up
Save over 12 lbs!!! from the stock Cat!
Stock Cat 14.7 lbs. vs. Tomei's Test Pipe 2.4 lbs!
Take your new hardware and apply some Bolt-Smooth-Paste to them.
Slide them onto your down pipe and install new gasket that is provided.
Install the test pipe and mount the bolts that are provided.
What it looks like once installed
It is now time for the main event!
Tomei Titanium cat back install. This extremely light weight and a work of art!
Included will be the 3 part cat back system
A Silencer for those that would like it quieter
1 New Gasket
2 Exhaust Clamps
4 Retainer Springs
2 New Bolts
1 Light Weight Muffler Hanger
1 Rubber Gard for the Muffler to Muffler Hanger
1 Nut and Bolt (Used for clamping the Muffler Hanger to the Muffler)
1 Bolt-Smooth-Paste
This system really is extremely light weight!
You will save over 34 lbs form your stock cat back with the Tomei Titanium Exhaust.
Stock 44.2 lbs vs. Tomei 9.7 lbs!!!
Bolt your first straight pipe of your cat back up to your test pipe
Slide your middle section onto the end of the straight pipe lining up the spring retainer hooks.
(Note have your exhaust clamp on before connecting these two sections together)
Once the two pre-muffler pipes are connected we hook the exhaust on the first hanger under the rear diff section.
Your two pipes should look like so once installed.
We snugged up our exhaust clamps and had the bolt on the top of the exhaust as to not hang down low.
They could get caught or rub if your car is low.
(Do not tighten up as some adjustment will be needed later)
Install your retainer springs once your clamp is snug.
You may use pliers for pulling this enough to hook.
(This can be a little tricky be careful)
Once your retainer springs are installed it should look like so.
For the Muffler section we installed the muffler hanger and hanger before the muffler.
(Make sure to use the protective rubber strip between the muffler and the muffler hanger when installing)
Slide the muffler through the hanger and line up the muffler to the middle section of the cat back system.
(Having an extra hand when sliding the muffler into place will help out at this point and make sure you have your exhaust clamp already on)
Once you have the muffler in place and aligned up snug up your exhaust clamp and attach your retainer springs.
It is now time to tighten up all your clamps.
With the exhaust being installed you may notice that the exhaust tip has a slight angle that makes it come close to the bumper plastic.
(As seen in this picture of the plastic touching the muffler)
Using something to cut the plastic with carefully trim away what is needed to provide more clearance of the bumper to muffler.
(We used some wire cutters to take care of this although anything can be used that will cut the plastic)
Bumper now has now been trimmed to fit with the muffler with plenty of clearance.
And now the final result!
And a sound video:
Let us know if you have any questions on any of these parts or process of installing.
Thank you,
-Dallin
Last edited by RallySport Direct; May 29, 2013 at 08:58 AM. Reason: title
May 29, 2013, 08:46 AM
#2
Also for those wondering here are all the parts which we used for this install:
Tomei Expreme Ti Titanium Catback Exhaust Mitsubishi EVO X 2008-2013
Tomei Expreme Ti Titanium Test Pipe Mitsubishi EVO X 2008-2013
Tomei Expreme Downpipe Big Mouth Mitsubishi EVO X 2008-2013
Thanks,
Jasmin
Tomei Expreme Ti Titanium Catback Exhaust Mitsubishi EVO X 2008-2013
Tomei Expreme Ti Titanium Test Pipe Mitsubishi EVO X 2008-2013
Tomei Expreme Downpipe Big Mouth Mitsubishi EVO X 2008-2013
Thanks,
Jasmin
May 30, 2013, 09:28 AM
#5
Thank you for posting one of the best installation how-to's i've seen in a long time.
excellent write up and images.
question: the way you set up the springs with the hook end toward the pipe, won't that have a higher likelyhood of popping off? why didn't you twist it the other way so so the loop portion of the hood is along the pipe? just curious.
excellent write up and images.
question: the way you set up the springs with the hook end toward the pipe, won't that have a higher likelyhood of popping off? why didn't you twist it the other way so so the loop portion of the hood is along the pipe? just curious.
May 30, 2013, 10:39 AM
#6
Thank you for posting one of the best installation how-to's i've seen in a long time.
excellent write up and images.
question: the way you set up the springs with the hook end toward the pipe, won't that have a higher likelyhood of popping off? why didn't you twist it the other way so so the loop portion of the hood is along the pipe? just curious.
excellent write up and images.
question: the way you set up the springs with the hook end toward the pipe, won't that have a higher likelyhood of popping off? why didn't you twist it the other way so so the loop portion of the hood is along the pipe? just curious.
We appreciate it after all of the work put into these installs and writes ups to be noticed
On the springs I can understand what you are thinking for the springs and I think it would be extremely difficult to l get the spring to hook on that way. The spring is very stiff and I do not believe that is would be likely to have one of these springs pop off to be honest. This is how Tomei has show it to be done on all of their exhaust and a Co-worker has has his Tomei exhaust on his car for over a year now with no issues at all.
Let me know if you have any other questions or concerns
Thank you,
-Dallin
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May 31, 2013, 12:06 PM
#8
This stuff is really nice and yes I wish everyone would use this stuff as it really does help
I think that even Mitsubishi should use it from the factory. That would help out a lot you know
Let me know if you have any questions on this how to
Thanks,
-Dallin
Jun 3, 2013, 02:53 PM
#11
We appreciate the kind words
Yes the DP is a little tricky and those bolts can be a bit of a pita if they brake
I have had to drill and tap these before, hence the reason why I installed the bolt-smooth-paste on all of the hardware for the next person down the road. It will more than likely be myself that has to deal with any removal of parts those bolts so I would rather not have to fight bolts in such a tight area on the back of the motor 
If anyone has any questions on anything please let us know.
Kind Regards,
-Dallin
Jun 12, 2013, 08:46 AM
#15
Thank you and yes the Tomei Exhaust is a work of art to be honest
Than you!
It was a bit of work, a lot of pictures but something that we believed needed to be done.
Will be working on another how to soon Something that is much easier though
-Dallin
It was a bit of work, a lot of pictures but something that we believed needed to be done.
Will be working on another how to soon
Something that is much easier though -Dallin