Stock Wheel and Alignment Specifications
Apr 25, 2009, 04:37 AM
#16
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Front:
Toe-in: 0.07* (per side, 0.14 total)
Camber: -1* (per side, non-adjustable per the manual)
Caster: 4* (non-adjustable).
So does this mean that front caster can never be changed. It will always remain at 4? Until you get aftermarket suspension I suppose.
Toe-in: 0.07* (per side, 0.14 total)
Camber: -1* (per side, non-adjustable per the manual)
Caster: 4* (non-adjustable).
So does this mean that front caster can never be changed. It will always remain at 4? Until you get aftermarket suspension I suppose.
Jun 16, 2009, 01:37 PM
#21
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Just completed a DIY aggressive X alignment. Here's the procedure and results:
Front:
Off with the wheel (13/16 deep six-point).
Pre-adjusted toe, 1-turn out (7/8 & 13mm opens)
Loosened both strut bolts and reversed top cam (19mm deep)
Jacked under the studs (wood block) to remove slop and tightened.
Result: -2.6deg left -2.8deg right 1/8" toe out. Good enough for now.
Rear:
Put a match mark at 12 o'clock on all four cam bolts. (Sharpie)
Loosened and rotated each cam 45 degrees in. (17mm deep & 17 open)
(rotating cam in pushes control arm out for more neg camber)
Result: -1.95 deg each side, 1/16" toe in. Good enough for now.
Got lucky with the toe results based on guessing. Where I used SAE tools it's because they fit better than the metrics. Measured camber with a 24" carpenter square, machinists rule and trigonometry. Measured total toe with a home-built trammel bar and machinists rule. Took me an hour.
FWIW -- Bill
Front:
Off with the wheel (13/16 deep six-point).
Pre-adjusted toe, 1-turn out (7/8 & 13mm opens)
Loosened both strut bolts and reversed top cam (19mm deep)
Jacked under the studs (wood block) to remove slop and tightened.
Result: -2.6deg left -2.8deg right 1/8" toe out. Good enough for now.
Rear:
Put a match mark at 12 o'clock on all four cam bolts. (Sharpie)
Loosened and rotated each cam 45 degrees in. (17mm deep & 17 open)
(rotating cam in pushes control arm out for more neg camber)
Result: -1.95 deg each side, 1/16" toe in. Good enough for now.
Got lucky with the toe results based on guessing. Where I used SAE tools it's because they fit better than the metrics. Measured camber with a 24" carpenter square, machinists rule and trigonometry. Measured total toe with a home-built trammel bar and machinists rule. Took me an hour.
FWIW -- Bill
Aug 3, 2009, 02:22 PM
#22
Handy Tire Size /Wheel Calculator:
http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html (needs Java Applet to run)
http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html (needs Java Applet to run)
Nov 10, 2009, 02:01 AM
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What are the advantages/disadvantages of putting on wider tires than the stock ones?
For example, what are the advantages/disadvantages of replacing my stock 245/40/18s with 265/35/18s.
For example, what are the advantages/disadvantages of replacing my stock 245/40/18s with 265/35/18s.
Dec 3, 2009, 09:28 PM
#28
I had my X on the alignment machine yesterday, and my front camber cannot go more positive than -1.8. I want to get the camber in spec to prevent tire wear but when I turn the cam, it starts going more negative to -2.5 and then gets stuck there. Going the other way does the same thing loll... Is it really possible to get in spec?
Thinking of badgering the dealership about this...
Thinking of badgering the dealership about this...
