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Stock Wheel and Alignment Specifications

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Old Jan 27, 2010, 09:32 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by prodigy1210
I had my X on the alignment machine yesterday, and my front camber cannot go more positive than -1.8. I want to get the camber in spec to prevent tire wear but when I turn the cam, it starts going more negative to -2.5 and then gets stuck there. Going the other way does the same thing loll... Is it really possible to get in spec?

Thinking of badgering the dealership about this...
If your X is like mine:

The OE camber-adjust bolt has only two positions...red dot in and red dot out. You can't "turn" the bolt on my car. You have to withdraw it, rotate and reinsert it. The bolt has a "lump" on the shaft and you can position the lump inboard or outboard.

If you want more adjustment than that you need to modify something. Lots of possibilities including slotting the bracket, aftermarket cam bolts and camber plates.

But I'd suggest you live with it and regularly rotate your tires, including turning them on the rims if that's what it takes.
Old Feb 21, 2010, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by WAM
If your X is like mine:

The OE camber-adjust bolt has only two positions...red dot in and red dot out. You can't "turn" the bolt on my car. You have to withdraw it, rotate and reinsert it. The bolt has a "lump" on the shaft and you can position the lump inboard or outboard.

If you want more adjustment than that you need to modify something. Lots of possibilities including slotting the bracket, aftermarket cam bolts and camber plates.

But I'd suggest you live with it and regularly rotate your tires, including turning them on the rims if that's what it takes.
WAM, do you or anyone else have a picture of where exactly this bolt is located up front?

Thanks in advance.
Old Feb 21, 2010, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by WAM
If your X is like mine:

The OE camber-adjust bolt has only two positions...red dot in and red dot out. You can't "turn" the bolt on my car. You have to withdraw it, rotate and reinsert it. The bolt has a "lump" on the shaft and you can position the lump inboard or outboard.

If you want more adjustment than that you need to modify something. Lots of possibilities including slotting the bracket, aftermarket cam bolts and camber plates.

But I'd suggest you live with it and regularly rotate your tires, including turning them on the rims if that's what it takes.
This is the way it's been for 7 years of Evos, so your car is not unique.
Old Feb 23, 2010, 06:30 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by swedemix
WAM, do you or anyone else have a picture of where exactly this bolt is located up front?

Thanks in advance.
No photo, but it's easy. Take off the front wheel and note the strut is held on at the bottom with two bolts (& nuts). The upper bolt will have a red dot on the head. It can only go inboard (less camber) or outboard (more camber).


It's right up front, above the hub...you can't miss it.
Old Feb 24, 2010, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by WAM
No photo, but it's easy. Take off the front wheel and note the strut is held on at the bottom with two bolts (& nuts). The upper bolt will have a red dot on the head. It can only go inboard (less camber) or outboard (more camber).


It's right up front, above the hub...you can't miss it.
Perfect, thanks!
Old Feb 24, 2010, 10:48 AM
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And don't try to force it to rotate. Remove the nut and back the bolt out to rotate it.
Old Mar 24, 2010, 08:34 PM
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my car is already out of alignment. I only have 10k mi..
Old May 7, 2010, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by goofygrin
245/40/18 (the stock size) is best.


Y not go with 255/35-18? This is what ive been considering.. What is your justification for sticking to stock setup?
Old May 10, 2010, 01:25 PM
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recently lowered, need alignment

Hi,

I recently lowered my ride (past Saturday) and after 20-25 miles, the warning displays come up for SAC and SWAC.

I turn the car off and turn it back on, no warning displays...but the warning displays do come back on after 5-10 miles of driving.

Should a simple realignment fix this warning display issue?
Old May 12, 2010, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Sol-Good
Hi,

I recently lowered my ride (past Saturday) and after 20-25 miles, the warning displays come up for SAC and SWAC.

I turn the car off and turn it back on, no warning displays...but the warning displays do come back on after 5-10 miles of driving.

Should a simple realignment fix this warning display issue?
Update: a trip to the dealership and after a realignment and computer re-calibration. all is well.
Old May 30, 2010, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by XMR-QTR
Y not go with 255/35-18? This is what ive been considering.. What is your justification for sticking to stock setup?

I'd like to go with a 255 size tire on the stock 8.5" wheel as well.

Why not go with the 40 side wall though? Why are you suggesting using this setup with a 35 side wall?
Old May 31, 2010, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Shapdog
I'd like to go with a 255 size tire on the stock 8.5" wheel as well.

Why not go with the 40 side wall though? Why are you suggesting using this setup with a 35 side wall?

Issue is with the 40 side wall, you will be increasing the overall diamater of the tire hence throwing off the speedo (only slightly) and possibly effecting shifting performance with the SST... Just my O2 (i know i am wierd with the extreme i take things to sometimes but its just me)

However, i ended up getting a set of 265/35-18 Invos on the stock wheel... numbers seemed pretty good and i got a great deal w/free shipping from ebay
Old Sep 25, 2010, 01:02 PM
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how reliable are these specs guys??
Old Jan 30, 2011, 08:12 PM
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I recently did an alignment on mine it was pretty close to what was listed.
Old Feb 13, 2011, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MR.Wicked
so what is the widest tire you can run on a stock MR rim?
I'd like to know this too... I hear the widest you should go is 265/35 on the stock wheel, is this recommended?

Last edited by ApexSilverGSR; Feb 13, 2011 at 09:31 PM. Reason: edit


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