steven88

iTrader: (9)

I'm just wondering if you guys resurface your rotors when you change out your stock brake pads? When I was a little kid, my teachers taught me that resurfacing a rotor (or replacement) is the proper way to do a brake job....as I got older, I found out that there were some shops that didn't resurface the rotors, especially on very easily driven cars (Civics, Corollas, etc)....But I am just wondering how it is for the Evo X?

EngRWW33

You can, but it is not needed. Really it will just shorten the life of your rotors. You could use some 120 grit sandpaper and scuff them up too, but again is not needed.

New pads will scrape the old pad material off the rotor for you, all you need is a good bed-in procedure and you should be good to go. Sorry, no evo x here, but same concept.

blk-majik

iTrader: (6)

I use 80grit, but yea, all you gotta do is remove the pad material from the old pads so the new ones get a proper transfer during bedding. sandpaper ftw. i keep a few sheets in my track tool box for when i swap out to track pads and back

KahoX

If it has heavy rust on the edges then yea.. But 90% of the time i machine on customers car just because "we (the dealership)" recommends it.

steven88

iTrader: (9)

thanks for the reply...could you give me a quick run down on how to sand the rotor? i know it might seem obvious...but i just don't want to run into any surprises....thanks in advanced!

chu

iTrader: (72)

Cleanining of the rotors areonly needed if you were changing pad compounds, fyi. And yes. just sand the surface to clean it up.

Kracka

iTrader: (49)

Sand if there isn't a lip or ridge, but if there is, get them turned.

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

sticky, search.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ke-rotors.html

KahoX

Dont forget to sand the inside

steven88

iTrader: (9)

yeah I'll make sure to sand the inside...and also I should spin the rotor around a few times just so I can get all 360 degrees of it....right?

how hard should I be pressing? Light sanding until the rotor turns squeaky clean is okay?

blk-majik

iTrader: (6)

just scuff it up a bit. don't put your weight into it so much that you cut in deep scratches. just enough to see some scuffing. you're trying to remove the thin layer of pad material that transfers to the metal, while leaving the rotor face as smooth as possible. Some light scuffing will get filled in when the new pad transfers a layer of the new material

there should be some video's showing how to do it if you google around

Ms_EvoX

It's been a nightmare to get a shop to change my brake pads for decent ones. Finally I got two that would do EBC or GSports but they say I have to change my rotors because they seem to ber worn down too much.. needless to say they never actually measured it. This is my first time doing the brakes on my EVOX. Suggestions?

journeymansteve

They're giving you a load of crap. You have an Evo, might as well learn to jack it up and remove the wheels often. You need to. You will be inspecting things that a shop like you're dealing with won't look at nor tell you even if they see things. You're going to be going fast, trust no average mechanic with your life.

EDIT: I just saw your screen name, Ms Evo. Sorry to ask you to wrench the baby... if you can't do it yourself personally, please do find someone who trusts you enough to let you watch the whole process. Educational for you for sure. None of the labor though is physically demanding. Worst part is taking the lug nuts off; you need a torque wrench to do the re-tightening. If you don't, the studs expire prematurely.

On topic, the rotors will last way more than 40k. If your first set of pads lasted you 40k, you're getting more life out of them than I did, and that means your rotors are living an easier life too.

At 36,000 miles, I did get my rotors turned (removed them and took them someplace) because the car developed "run-out", manifesting itself as a shimmy when easing on the brakes. They had plenty of material.

However, that's probably about it for these rotors as it comes to turning. It's not just an evo thing, its a lathing thing that just takes metal and it never comes back. I recently discovered that RockAuto carries rotors for the X -- hurray! I am fine with blank rotor faces and heavy steel, I'm not so fast I need two part or slotted.

journeymansteve

^One thing about my own opinion/belief/feeling on the turned rotors.... I don't trust them under extremely severe and abusive conditions, like running Hawk DTC's at the track. I am gonna use brand new rotors for safety (i.e. peace of mind and confidence)

Sinister_X

iTrader: (4)

Glad I dont got to change brakes yet. I will probably do it even before I they start to make sounds though, so I avoid damaging my rotors.