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Just thought I would show off my new Gram Lights setup. These will be used for autocross only, still using stock rims for street duty. Since these photos were taken I have rolled the rears slightly (rolled maybe 1/4-3/8in of the lip up) and gotten a new alignment; - 3.0 camber front, -2.9 camber rear. The rears were poking out a bit in these pics, hopefully with the roll and camber they will fit. Will test fit them tomorrow and post more pics. Drop is around 1.5 inches on Ohlins R&T coilovers.
The tires are Hoosier A7 275/35-18's. They look super beefy!
MEAT! I wonder if 10.5 wide wheels would work and give you a tighter/sharper feel.
Would probably make it sharper and more responsive, but I didn't think it was worth the extra weight or cost. I originally wanted a 10 inch rim but couldn't really find the weight/offset/price that I was looking for.
Need to full roll, and get a bit of a pull on the rear. You need to run rear camber at about 1/2 of what you have up front. So with 3 up front, you want to be at 1.5-2 in the rear, closer to 1.5 though. And Hoosiers like more camber, like 4* in the front, 2-2.5 in the rear...
Need to full roll, and get a bit of a pull on the rear. You need to run rear camber at about 1/2 of what you have up front. So with 3 up front, you want to be at 1.5-2 in the rear, closer to 1.5 though. And Hoosiers like more camber, like 4* in the front, 2-2.5 in the rear...
I went with Hoosiers suggestion and did 3 degrees all round. Why not run an equal camber setup? This is the first time I have heard of the 1/2 in the rear thing.
Because most people want the back to break loose a little bit, otherwise you tend to get a decent amount of understeer.
It should still be willing to rotate. I ran my current suspension setup with -2.6F and -2.3R all of last season and it seemed to work pretty well. Understeer was never an issue. This was on AD08R's though. I can also play with tire pressure some if I need to.
I went with Hoosiers suggestion and did 3 degrees all round. Why not run an equal camber setup? This is the first time I have heard of the 1/2 in the rear thing.
Because of the mac strut front suspension vs the multi link rear. Once the car is lowered, the front has very little camber gain. If lowered enough, you actually lose camber on compression. While the rear gains camber since its a proper multi link design. Also, the front tires turn and the front of the car is heavier, they get a lot more force applied to them trying to roll the tire onto the sidewall. It's fairly standard to run less camber in the rear.
Because of the mac strut front suspension vs the multi link rear. Once the car is lowered, the front has very little camber gain. If lowered enough, you actually lose camber on compression. While the rear gains camber since its a proper multi link design. Also, the front tires turn and the front of the car is heavier, they get a lot more force applied to them trying to roll the tire onto the sidewall. It's fairly standard to run less camber in the rear.
I understand the camber gain issue, though I would hope this is somewhat negated by the fact that we limit compression with stiff springs and fat sway bars. I believe this is why Macpherson strut cars tend to run stiffer suspension in general, compared to other cars.
I find it hard to believe there will be enough compression in the rear to make up a 2 degree camber difference if you were say running -4/-2, but then again these are Rcomps, not extreme summer like I had last season so I don't know, you could be right.
Normally the camber gain in the rear would allow you to run lower pressures to increase your contact patch and take advantage of greater grip, but I will plan on keeping pressures high in the rear to offset.
I realize this isn't ideal, I would have preferred -3/-2.5, but I want to make sure there is no rubbing in the rear.
At the end of the day you don't want greater grip in the rear, whether through pressures, camber, suspension setup etc.
I will let you know my thoughts after my first event. I have no idea what to expect in the A7's so I may need to rethink my setup. I would imagine that Rcomps will magnify issues that weren't as noticeable on street tires.
Granted I have a CT9A, I run -3.3f -1.5r with NT01's with pretty even tire wear. Head to the motorsports section to get more input on the amount of camber Hoosier's like.
Granted I have a CT9A, I run -3.3f -1.5r with NT01's with pretty even tire wear. Head to the motorsports section to get more input on the amount of camber Hoosier's like.
I did a track day with more even camber all around and I got a decent amount of understeer because of the alignment so I tried to play with the tire pressures to gain a bit more grip but the damn evo x is so heavy that it was causing the tire to roll onto the sidewall. Also of course you can overcome the alignment a little with the driving style as well. But either way good luck and let us know how it goes!
I did a track day with more even camber all around and I got a decent amount of understeer because of the alignment so I tried to play with the tire pressures to gain a bit more grip but the damn evo x is so heavy that it was causing the tire to roll onto the sidewall. Also of course you can overcome the alignment a little with the driving style as well. But either way good luck and let us know how it goes!
Will do, I've changed so many things over winter I have no idea what to expect handling-wise. I still don't even know if the Hoosiers will rub on the course.
-Added the whiteline roll center kit
-Went from 255/35-18 Advans to Hoosier A7's
-Changed alignment from -2.6/-2.3 to -3.0/-2.9
Went from 8.5 ET30 rim to 9.5 ET22 rim.
9.5 +22 shouldn't rub, that's a very mild wheel fitment. The Hoosier's do run big though. My friend's X has 18x10 +25 wheels with 275/35r18 bridgestone re71r's, very mild rear roll and I think -1.8 camber, with no rubbing issues on track.
Mar 25, 2016, 08:33 PM
