Getting my evo track "ready" opinions plz
Nov 17, 2016, 09:17 PM
#1
Getting my evo track "ready" opinions plz
Ik the evo is pretty much track ready as is. I am just looking for something to do over winter while my car sits. I'm about to pull the trigger on a set of ohlins. But what else besides tires (going to get either re71r or re11) should I invest in. This will be my first time at the track so nothing will really be harassed to bad. I was looking at sway bars end links and trail arms from whiteline but the more I think about it i should probably just wait and track it before I go ***** to the wall. Just figured I'd get a whole bunch of **** and save money on only having to do one alignment. Either way outside of the coils what would b the next best thing for me. Do I get the sway bars or just upgrade my pads? Please just make a list of like 3 things that would make a actual difference on the track (ROAD AMERICA) I've read that the st43's are good for street and track....true?
Thanks guys very new to this track setup business but excited to see what these cars are really made for.
Thanks guys very new to this track setup business but excited to see what these cars are really made for.
Nov 18, 2016, 05:45 AM
#2
If the mods listed in your signature are your current setup, you already have an unbalanced car for track use. The st43 pad will be a good option and you should consider getting the MR rotors, or other two piece rotors.
Considering the weight of the X and the power you're making, the RE71 or the Dunlop star specs would be the tire I'd suggest. Each has their short comings, the brigdestones get greasy and the Dunlops chunk. If you've got the budget, the AD08r is a bether tire as is the Toyo RA1.
For suspension you shouldn't do to much all at once. You need to "feel" it out to understand what the car is doing and what the changes bring.
Last bit of advice is to say pull your boost down to waste gate pressure. This comes from starting to do track days in a 350whp evo, then jumping to a 550whp evo. I learned really quickly that I was overwhelming everything, especially myself. You're out there to have fun and learn. Both those things are easier to do in a less powerful car.
Here's your three things in summery:
1. Better tires
2. Better brakes
3. Less power
Considering the weight of the X and the power you're making, the RE71 or the Dunlop star specs would be the tire I'd suggest. Each has their short comings, the brigdestones get greasy and the Dunlops chunk. If you've got the budget, the AD08r is a bether tire as is the Toyo RA1.
For suspension you shouldn't do to much all at once. You need to "feel" it out to understand what the car is doing and what the changes bring.
Last bit of advice is to say pull your boost down to waste gate pressure. This comes from starting to do track days in a 350whp evo, then jumping to a 550whp evo. I learned really quickly that I was overwhelming everything, especially myself. You're out there to have fun and learn. Both those things are easier to do in a less powerful car.
Here's your three things in summery:
1. Better tires
2. Better brakes
3. Less power
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The_X_Effect (Nov 18, 2016)
Nov 18, 2016, 07:36 AM
#3
Evolved Member
I wouldn't waste to much money on special tires or anything, unless your buying tires already because you need them. Since it sounds like your first time, I would just invest in some track pads and swap out your brake fluid and just have at it!
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The_X_Effect (Nov 18, 2016)
Nov 18, 2016, 07:40 AM
#4
If the mods listed in your signature are your current setup, you already have an unbalanced car for track use. The st43 pad will be a good option and you should consider getting the MR rotors, or other two piece rotors.
Considering the weight of the X and the power you're making, the RE71 or the Dunlop star specs would be the tire I'd suggest. Each has their short comings, the brigdestones get greasy and the Dunlops chunk. If you've got the budget, the AD08r is a bether tire as is the Toyo RA1.
For suspension you shouldn't do to much all at once. You need to "feel" it out to understand what the car is doing and what the changes bring.
Last bit of advice is to say pull your boost down to waste gate pressure. This comes from starting to do track days in a 350whp evo, then jumping to a 550whp evo. I learned really quickly that I was overwhelming everything, especially myself. You're out there to have fun and learn. Both those things are easier to do in a less powerful car.
Here's your three things in summery:
1. Better tires
2. Better brakes
3. Less power
Considering the weight of the X and the power you're making, the RE71 or the Dunlop star specs would be the tire I'd suggest. Each has their short comings, the brigdestones get greasy and the Dunlops chunk. If you've got the budget, the AD08r is a bether tire as is the Toyo RA1.
For suspension you shouldn't do to much all at once. You need to "feel" it out to understand what the car is doing and what the changes bring.
Last bit of advice is to say pull your boost down to waste gate pressure. This comes from starting to do track days in a 350whp evo, then jumping to a 550whp evo. I learned really quickly that I was overwhelming everything, especially myself. You're out there to have fun and learn. Both those things are easier to do in a less powerful car.
Here's your three things in summery:
1. Better tires
2. Better brakes
3. Less power
Nov 18, 2016, 07:53 AM
#5
Thing is when I bought the car I'm pretty sure the previous owner drove it for way to long with the alignment off. The front right tire is almost bald on the inside. There is no metal showing but it does pull to the left which is super annoying. I had the dealership do two alignments on before i bought it but its gotta b that tire causing the pull. I'm just worried about it going out on me. Yes the brake fluid was sothing I was gonna do as well over winter.
Nov 18, 2016, 08:03 AM
#6
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Use good brake bluid, Project Mu G4, torque RT700, Castrol SRF, etc. Parts store dot3/4 will not cut it on track.
Will the tires you'll be buying be street/track, or track only?
And yes, I would definitely turn the boost down to wastegate pressure. Get oil and water temp gauges (if you don't already have them).
ST43's are a great pad choice.
Will the tires you'll be buying be street/track, or track only?
And yes, I would definitely turn the boost down to wastegate pressure. Get oil and water temp gauges (if you don't already have them).
ST43's are a great pad choice.
Nov 18, 2016, 08:52 AM
#7
Use good brake bluid, Project Mu G4, torque RT700, Castrol SRF, etc. Parts store dot3/4 will not cut it on track.
Will the tires you'll be buying be street/track, or track only?
And yes, I would definitely turn the boost down to wastegate pressure. Get oil and water temp gauges (if you don't already have them).
ST43's are a great pad choice.
Will the tires you'll be buying be street/track, or track only?
And yes, I would definitely turn the boost down to wastegate pressure. Get oil and water temp gauges (if you don't already have them).
ST43's are a great pad choice.
Why set boost to wastegate pressure? What will that do for me exactly
I have an oil pressure volt fuel pressure and exhaust temp gauge and a fail safe
Last edited by The_X_Effect; Nov 18, 2016 at 09:21 AM.
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Nov 18, 2016, 09:36 AM
#9
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Was looking at motul rbf 600 for fluid and the tires will b mostly street and tracked a couple times a year. Car will never see rain or snow. It's not my daily either so even when I do drive it on the street I want to b able to harass corners and round abouts
Why set boost to wastegate pressure? What will that do for me exactly
I have an oil pressure volt fuel pressure and exhaust temp gauge and a fail safe
Why set boost to wastegate pressure? What will that do for me exactly
I have an oil pressure volt fuel pressure and exhaust temp gauge and a fail safe
RBF600 sucks, pedal gets spongy as soon as it get hot. The three I suggested are great brake fluids.
Wastegate pressure, so you don't kill yourself and to make the car more manageable. Also because you're cooling system likely isn't up to the task of keep 600+ hp cool on track.
You need a water and oil temp gauge. So that you know when you need to back off and do a cool down lap when water gets over 225-230*F, and when oil gets above 280*F.
This is why you should start your tracking experience with a stock or much closer to stock car. It's a very different game and level of abuse for the car when on track. So many things you don't have to worry about on a more stock car...lol
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The_X_Effect (Nov 18, 2016)
Nov 18, 2016, 09:58 AM
#10
I would probably go with the Dunlop Z2's then. The RE71r falls off pretty bad once they get out of their very low temp range. The re71 is an autocross or time attack (warm up lap, flying lap, cool down lap) tire. Doesn't work for to great for HPDE lapping work.
RBF600 sucks, pedal gets spongy as soon as it get hot. The three I suggested are great brake fluids.
Wastegate pressure, so you don't kill yourself and to make the car more manageable. Also because you're cooling system likely isn't up to the task of keep 600+ hp cool on track.
You need a water and oil temp gauge. So that you know when you need to back off and do a cool down lap when water gets over 225-230*F, and when oil gets above 280*F.
This is why you should start your tracking experience with a stock or much closer to stock car. It's a very different game and level of abuse for the car when on track. So many things you don't have to worry about on a more stock car...lol
RBF600 sucks, pedal gets spongy as soon as it get hot. The three I suggested are great brake fluids.
Wastegate pressure, so you don't kill yourself and to make the car more manageable. Also because you're cooling system likely isn't up to the task of keep 600+ hp cool on track.
You need a water and oil temp gauge. So that you know when you need to back off and do a cool down lap when water gets over 225-230*F, and when oil gets above 280*F.
This is why you should start your tracking experience with a stock or much closer to stock car. It's a very different game and level of abuse for the car when on track. So many things you don't have to worry about on a more stock car...lol
Being that it's gonna be my first time out there I am forced to have an instructor with me which is fine as I am green. So I will have to be easy on my car as it is. I won't be driving it quite like any of u just yet
I could also see if Chet would b willing to make me a 93 oct. Map to switch to before track day so I don't have as much power?
Last edited by The_X_Effect; Nov 18, 2016 at 10:51 AM.
Nov 18, 2016, 11:17 AM
#11
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
No, you should stay on E85, the chemical cooling will be good for everything. But turn the boost all the way down. Your instructor will thank you. And you will have more fun putting power leaving corners as opposed to trying to manage the skinny pedal with 600-700whp.
Like most of the other cheap radiators, that Megan was probably a downgrade from OEM unfortunately.
The coolant temp gauge on the dash is a glorified idiot light. It doesn't tell you the actual temp of the engine, it doesn't even move between when the engine is in the "normal" range.
Like most of the other cheap radiators, that Megan was probably a downgrade from OEM unfortunately.
The coolant temp gauge on the dash is a glorified idiot light. It doesn't tell you the actual temp of the engine, it doesn't even move between when the engine is in the "normal" range.
Nov 18, 2016, 12:04 PM
#12
Evolved Member
Im sure your car will be fine, just focus on listening to the instructor and hitting the apex's. Speed will come with practice. The people who get in trouble are the ones who go out there and drive above there ability level. The car can do way more then you are capable of. So don't worry about if you get passed by slower cars. You will notice even just throughout the day that you will get quicker. I myself used the Motul rbf 660 and didn't think it was a spongy pedal feel. But get whatever kind you prefer, just get some. Because the factory stuff does suck.
Nov 18, 2016, 02:38 PM
#13
No, you should stay on E85, the chemical cooling will be good for everything. But turn the boost all the way down. Your instructor will thank you. And you will have more fun putting power leaving corners as opposed to trying to manage the skinny pedal with 600-700whp.
Like most of the other cheap radiators, that Megan was probably a downgrade from OEM unfortunately.
The coolant temp gauge on the dash is a glorified idiot light. It doesn't tell you the actual temp of the engine, it doesn't even move between when the engine is in the "normal" range.
Like most of the other cheap radiators, that Megan was probably a downgrade from OEM unfortunately.
The coolant temp gauge on the dash is a glorified idiot light. It doesn't tell you the actual temp of the engine, it doesn't even move between when the engine is in the "normal" range.
How would u rate the hankook v12 on a scale of 1-10 for the track. Are they something i could get by with for a day or two at the track until I get a better understanding of my car and its limits? If I could manage with those I would spend that money on a go pro which would benefit me just as much. Ik I asked for the best things to upgrade before I go to the track just would like to trash these tires up a bit more before I buy some new ones.
Nov 21, 2016, 11:21 AM
#14
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
The V12's will be fine for your first track day. If you have a good instructor, and you have some confidence in your driving ability (and you don't just suck 
), you will likely find the limits of them that day, but you'll still have fun.
), you will likely find the limits of them that day, but you'll still have fun.
Nov 21, 2016, 07:42 PM
#15
I will pick up those ohlins and a whiteline rear sway bar I like the sound of having more oversteer. Another unfortunate thing that I feel I am gonna have to upgrade is my plastic valve cover. Research Leans that way but I have read of people being just fine with the plastic. My tubular full race mani is wrapped as is my downpipe. It still gets crazy hot tho.