livelyjay

iTrader: (20)

Mods: Just a little tid bit to help out those who might be doing this install on their own. Please put in the how-to section.

This guide shall help you set up your Lancer for the turbocharger or supercharger installation if you are doing it on your own. You will need many tools for this, but the most common tools needed are:

Sockets and wrenches in sizes 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm and other misc sizes
Socket extensions
8mm hex wrench
3/8 NPT Drill and Tap set
Spark plug socket
Flat head screw driver
Phillips screw driver
Needle nose pliers
Regular pliers
2 Buckets (one for oil drain, one for coolant drain)
JBWeld/JBQuick
Jack, jack stands, lug wrench

To help aid with the fuel pump installation, start all of this when you car has less than 1/4 of gas.

1. Remove your fuel pump
2. Disconnect and remove battery
This is an easy unbolt job. Do not place the battery directly on the ground as it will drain charge. Just put it in the trunk since it’s getting mounted there any ways.
3. Jack up the car, put it on jack stands, and remove two front tires
This makes it easier to remove stuff and get around the front of the car, not to mention with bumper removal.
4. Drain your oil
5. Drain your coolant
Unscrew the radiator cap. On the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side there is a drain tube and a plastic wing screw. This is the drain for the coolant. Put the bucket under the drain and loosen the screw. Wait till all the coolant has been drained.
6. Remove your radiator
Remove upper radiator hose, remove lower radiator hose, unplug radiator fan control wires, unbolt radiator support brackets, push radiator towards engine, pull radiator up and out of the car. BE CAREFUL not to puncture the fragile aluminum.
7. Remove your exhaust manifold
Unbolt and remove the heat shield. Unbolt O2 sensor and unplug its harness, place aside in a plastic bag and keep it safe. Remove the oil dip stick. Remove the oil dip stick tube (one bolt, and tug hard on it). Remove down pipe to exhaust manifold bolts. Remove header nuts (the lower left one is tough, look for suggestions on the forum). Remove header and leave gasket on the engine, it will be safe there and it’s getting reused.
8. Remove air box and intake
This is a simple unbolt and remove procedure
9. Remove spark plugs
10. Remove your front bumper
11. Remove plastic splash guards
There are lots of little plastic clips under the car. Remove these to aid with intercooler piping installation
12. Remove oil pan
Basically do this: unbolt every little bolt holding the pan onto the engine. All but one or two bolts will be able to fall right into your hands, but one will be stuck above the center support bracket. That is fine; just make sure it’s all the way out. Take a broom handle, stick it down next to the timing cover and place it above the oil filter location. Hit it with a hammer. Two good thwacks will get the oil pan off.
13. Drill and Tap oil pan
Self explanitory. Find a good place to drill on the front, drivers side of the pan. Make sure you drill and tap the silver part of the pan, and not the black section. Use the drill and tap set to do the dirty work. Put the oil drain fittings in, and JBWeld those suckers into place to prevent leaking.
14. Unbolt Oil Plug
There is bolt located right above the oil filter that is used for the oil feed line. This requires an 8mm hex wrench to remove. Put in the wrench and bust it loose. FYI, this is a 3/8 NPT plug, so get the right fitting for the feed line.

GreenPsycho

iTrader: (13)

nice bud, but shouldn't you remove battery before you remove the fuel pump?

don't wanna get an accidental spark and KABLOOIE!

gregivq

iTrader: (5)

More give me more......

livelyjay

iTrader: (20)

Nope, because in order to remove the fuel pump, you have to run the fuel out of the lines. Well, you don't have to, but it saves a big mess in your passenger compartment.

Disconnect the fuel pump power, crank the car and if it starts, it will die quickly, otherwise crank a few times to get the fuel out of the lines.. Then you disconnect the battery and continue with the fuel pump uninstall. Then you remove the batter completely (only necessary for auto install, but it's nice to get it out of the way any ways)

^^^ That is all covered in the fuel pump removal guide on this forum.

GreenPsycho

iTrader: (13)

ahh, gotcha

blaze_125

iTrader: (8)

Remove the radiator??? Are you telling me that's why I had a b!tch!ng time when I tried to insert the whole turbo assembly in my buddie's car???

livelyjay

iTrader: (20)

Yup. I actually punched a hole in my radiator trying to short cut getting the turbo out. Lesson learned, pull the radiator.

SIMSSEGA

iTrader: (6)

jay it seems like you only did half the directions there care to finish them off. I will be installing my turbo next week and i will need all the help i can get.

blaze_125

iTrader: (8)

He wrote the Prep work. After prep, it's only a metter of hooking up your pipes together and pieceing it back up.

livelyjay

iTrader: (20)

Yup, just the prep work. If you need any help, just ask around. The only non-straightforward thing I can think of that would be overlooked is priming the oil feed line. That's one of the last steps, but a very important one. Unhook the wires from your coil packs - put a baggie over the end of the oil line that going into the turbo - crank the engine once (10 seconds), wait 60 seconds - repeat until oil is getting into the baggie. Then hook it up to the turbo and plug your coil packs back in.

Go_Lancer_Go

iTrader: (13)

can u add n e other tips that is necessary to make ur turbo function effectively and efficant

KillahB

iTrader: (7)

My tips, you may not find them helpful or not:

- Prime the turbo before you use it.
- Get your car tuned as soon as possible. If you are boosting over 8 psi, please have some tool that you can adjust your ignition timing.
- Check your oil levels constantly
- Heat is not your friend; in hotter climates (summer), your tune may not be as good as with cooler times (winter), so keep an eye on that EGT
- Dont take any shortcuts; waiting a month or so to afford Emanage or an SITC could mean the difference between a couple hundred bucks and a couple thousand.
- Heat wrap your manifold if you can; I know the argument of this, but with the underhood temperatures, your car will love you.
- Realize that your car is not meant for boost and expect tons of problems. If I began to tell you the problems the Miragers were having, it might scare you away.

livelyjay

iTrader: (20)

That's post turbo, this is about pre turbo prep, make your own damn thread j/k

Ceramic coating or heat wrapping is a good thing to do. I used to live pretty close to SwainTech in upstate NY, but never took advantage of the closeness because I didn't have the funds.

Oh yeah, eManage and SAFC don't work on the Lancer as far as we can tell, search for engineerboy's threads if you want the skinny on that.

silkymp

iTrader: (6)

Well i guess the emanager does work if you use the injector map to add fuel and you could use the safc if you run bigger injectors to take away fuel but for the most part they don't work like the should.

AznFlip

iTrader: (8)

I think SAFCII works great on turbo lancer, but I don't really about the emanage.

Btw, about the tapping the oil pan, you said tap the silver part instead of the black...or it doesn't really matter? I see people tapping their return line into the black part.