EvoVIIIGuy

iTrader: (1)

Material List:
Home Depot/Hardware store
Fiberglass Resin
Fiberglass Cloth/Mat
Box of 50 Rubber Gloves
Extra Fiberglass Resin Hardener
1 gallon Tub of Bondo.
Bondo mixing and applying plastic spreaders
Light weight finishing filler, (5 oz tube)
40 grit sand paper
120 grit sand paper
320 grit sand paper
primer
paint
Small amt of 1/2 inch MDF Wood 4ft sq should be enough
Large Roll of Aluminum Foil
Package of Mixing Cups or SOLO cups,

Tools needed
POWER SANDER IS A BIG HELP
Scisors or razor blades
Jig Saw
Imagination


FIRST STEP: Making the Mold to build from.

Remove A Pillar Trim Covers.

Cover A Pillar Trim Piece in Aluminum foil, 2 layers should be good,
press the foil so there is no creases and it wraps the trim piece tight

Lay out dry fiberglass mat on Pillar, cut to fit shape,
2 layers should be fine to start...
(you are covering the outside shell, not wrapping it around
the back.)

Put on Gloves, Mix 5-10 Oz of Fiber glass resin in Cup
according to the packages requirements,,,MIX WELL.

Use your hands and work resin into the Mat, Continue to
make sure that the mat holds the shape that you are recreating.

DO this on both pillars and wait till they dry, 2-6 hours depending
on temperature.

Once dry, remove hard shell from original pillar trim piece and pick
the aluminum off of the mold you have made.

STEP TWO. Creating the shape.
This part takes some creativity on your part, Now that you have
seen how Fiber glass works, You need to learn and play with how
you want your pillar to look, are you adding speakers, Gages, Mounts
Displays, SAFCII Screen, MBC's etc.

Use the Wood to cut guides for your self. Our example will be tweeter POD.

Cut the wood to reflect a ring the size of which the tweeter
will fit in snug.

Use Small amt of bondo, (mix according to instructions on can)
to secure the wood to your New Mold. Mix the bondo HOT, or
add a little more cream hardener than your would for normal.
(this is just expierence, play with the stuff a little bit
before you start your project) You can see in this picture the
small plastic mounting ring that was used, see how it is atached
with the bondo to the mold!!


Let dry, the HOT mix bondo will harden in about 3-5 min.
You will have to hold the wood in that spot until it drys.

Now Mix normal proportions of cream hardener and bondo and fill in
area behind the wood trim piece, use Gloves and use a bondo spreader.
(this will cause less sanding later)

Let this harden and continue to sand down and apply bondo until you have
the shape that is desired.

as you can see here, the plastic trim ring is now back filled and the middle
cleared out.



Use Dremel tool or drill to remove excess bondo from inside the wood trim
ring, you can also put the tweeter into a plastic bag before bondo and put it
in the trim ring you made,then bondo around it, same idea as the aluminum
over the pillar trim ring, it does not stick but allowes it to be molded
around the part.

Part 3: Finishing the pillar.

At this point you should have a basic looking pillar with lots of
funny colors on it.


Use your light weight bondo filler tube to fill in small irregularities on
the surface of your new Trim Pieces, Use the 320 grit to make is as smooth
and flowing as possible, you might want to lay another layer of fiberglass
mat over the project at this point to have a uniform surface and to add strength.
Bondo sands easier than resin and having the surface uniform with one product
will make it easier to sand and make just perfect.


next is to spray with primer and let dry, this will show
off the wavy or uneven parts. let dry and
finish sanding it down and filling imperfections and re spray with primer
until you have it as smooth as you want it to be.

Next hit the piece with SEM Texture coat spray, follow the instructions
on the can very carefully, dont rush this part. This will give the
New Trim Piece a texture that looks like leather or the factory plastic
dash texture. Follow the finishing instructions on the can
exactly so it turns out just right, remember at this point,
you can always sand it down and try again until it is just right



Last part is to paint it what ever color you want!
and you are done


TWO VERY GOOD QUESTIONS HAVE COME UP....

First Question is, did I mold onto the plastic?

In the Pictures I did mold to the plastic, But something that I would not recomend because it can crack, plastic is soft and flexable, bondo and fiberglass are not, so they don't last long with out cracking. The instructions I drafted up describe recreating a new pillar, not building off of the factory one, yet the pictures are my first go at it, the finished product picture is my final job at it and does not have any original factory pillar in it, so read carfully, take pictures as a slight guide to the words.

Second is how to attach the pillar once you make it?

You can secure the A pillar in three ways,
THe first is done buy molding or glueing the factory clip to your new A pillar,
Liquid nails works well for this!

The other that has worked very well for me has been clear silicone to secure it from the back side, to remove it use a heat gun.

I have seen people use screws and have built into the A pillar a deep counter sunkin portion for the screw to hide in and secure the pillar, this is the hard way, but the best way.

sophic

iTrader: (3)

I've made my own Kick pannels before, and all I can say is I am very impressed. I am about to start making some for my evo now, but I kinda like your (A pillar) idea better although I have 6 1/2 yours look like 4"s. I think 6 1/2 would look silly on the dash.

sophic

iTrader: (3)

where can i get this SEM texture coat spray?

dexterdizzle

iTrader: (5)

Beautiful write up . . i thank you because i was planning on working with fiberglass for the first time this weekend . . . Big help .

Lance Dogg

wow, awesome. i remember your pics from a few months back. but, the tutorial is killer! thanks!!!

BillAce

iTrader: (2)

I can add a few helpfull shortcuts.

Instead of foil, outline the shape you want on the stock panel. Cut grooves 1" wide around the outline leaving 1/4" space between them.

Cut wood rings for the speakers/gauge and I use CA 2 part insta glue to hold it in place.

Stretch fabric into the grooves and glue on the back side of the panel. This gives you much less to sand and makes sure you don't sand the edge to thin while blending in the panel causing cracks later.

Sand the panel next to the fabric and clean with Naptha or similar solvent.

Use Epoxy resin! It bonds better to plastic. I use West Systems. Next, I add fairing filler to more resin to thicken it to a bondo like consistency. spread that over the panel. It self levels, so it will fill in any low spots, and give a stronger bond to the original panel. Sand that, blend in, and your ready for finish. I'll have the custom color code for the SEM sure coat color to match the factory perfectly soon and i'll share that code for anyone interested.

Here is a pic of a pair just finished for a G35, AEM O2 gauge and tweeter on the drivers side, tweeter on the passneger.

FlLancer

iTrader: (2)

Looks like fiberglass requires more patience than i have.. looks good though.

vrrrm...psss

iTrader: (2)

this is a pretty interesting post........the funny thing about it is that i just read your cardomain page like 3 days ago, and now here it is again...lol...VERY nice job by the way.....ever get ready to sell them, shoot me a pm (i could build them, but i hate working with fiberglass)

EvoVIIIGuy

iTrader: (1)

THis is good info as well if building the mold on to existing plastic. The Pictures I posted reflect building off of plastic, but it is something that I would never do again because plastic is way to soft to work with compaired to bondo, fiberglass epoxy and resin.

THe Products that you mention are great to use and I will use them in future projects, but they are not available at the Average Joes' local hardware store. But sometimes if you want something to turn out better, you need to spend the money on the right material.

I did not understand you idea on

(Instead of foil, outline the shape you want on the stock panel. Cut grooves 1" wide around the outline leaving 1/4" space between them. )

I am guessing you are building into the factory panel and not replacing it??

From now on I will build from scratch as in this sub enclosure for the EVO

BillAce

iTrader: (2)

When you're making the mold, go to the hobby store and get a product called "rigid Wrap". They use it for model trains to make landscapes, tunnels etc. It's a woven cloth with plaster of paris on one side.

I get a lasagna tin and fill it with water.

cut the roll of cloth to correct size for mold.

lay the cloth down and use a paint brush to work the plaster in. Overlay in opposite directions to make it more rigid.

It can dry with a heat gun or if small enough, you can microwave the mold to dry completly.

If you are going over carpet and want the part removable, put down a layer of masking tape, for spare tire wells, just lay it on the metal. It's water soluable, so clean up is easy. Since it's cloth, you can resin right on top of it and the resin will soak in and make it part of your project. This way you never have to glass in the car, no smell or worries of a mess. I'll try to find pictures of the Honda I just did. The spare tire was in the car for years and the sidewall lettering was imprinted on the OEM sound deadening. When my box was done, the lettering was picked up by the mold exactly. It fits so well, there is suction holding it in. I usually glass in a metal plate at the bottom to use the spare tire bolt to bolt down the enclosure before the woofer goes in to make it theft proof. This stuff is way better than the garbage bag or foil method since you get a better fit and can glass outside the car. if you need a releasing agent from a panel, Pam cooking spray works great too.

twardnw

iTrader: (4)

thanks for all the info guys, I'm gonna (hopefully) doing some of this in the month or so, I'll be sure to post pics of what I get done