Waz996

iTrader: (1)

Guys,


I've opted for an Alpine 534 4channel Amp to power my front speakers (Ch1+Ch2_ and 10in subwoofer (Bridged Ch3+4), easy...

Though i had the choice of two JL-Audio subs, the tech guy told me i'd rather use the one with the lower 150Watts-RMS capacity rather than the higher one (300W RMS).. He said it would perform better since the amp is only supplying 100W RMS to the subwoofer (thru its bridged channels 3&4)..

Am i being mislead or is he right?

I want good quality music rather than high powered music, that is why i am opting for a lower power option (+finances!)

Wael

BillAce

iTrader: (2)

There is a really simple way to look at this. Everybody wants to have the coolest bada$$ woofer in their trunk. This sub will cost big money, have a huge magnet (heavy) and work in small sealed enclosures though they are too deep to fit in that size box.

You can spend over $400 on a sub that has almost an inch of excursion and needs 600 watts or more to reach that level.

You can spend less than $200 on a sub that will have 3/4" excusrion and need 150-200 watts to reach that limit.

The cheaper sub would be louder at the lower power level provided it was mounted in the proper enclosure. You could probably acheive higher SPL levels with 2 cheaper woofers and less power if you have the space for them. The tech is right, there is no need for the giant mega subs unless pure disgusting sounding music is your goal. If so be prepared to spend a lot of $$$$$$ on equipment and then replacing that equipment. THe only thing more expensive than racing is SPL competition.

Andrew LB

The rule of thumb is you need an amp pushing at least 50% RMS of the Subs RMS rating.

Andrew LB

Damn.... I just looked up the manual for my Boston Pro Series 12.5"LF subs (4ohm version) and the manual says recommended wattage: 50-1200w. Wow.... i don't quite get why they'd have such a wide wattage rating.

Well... watts aren't everything though. High amperage amps actually are what makes speakers rock. My home theater receiver is a 75w 6.1 channel Harman Kardon powering my JBL S310 Studio Series speakers and it rocks them FAR FAR better than my last receiver which was a 125w 5.1 channel Sony. Clarity is far superior also. I asked an audiophile friend and he said its due to it being a high amperage current receiver. Kinda like horsepower and torque. You can have all the HP in the world but without torque, you ain't got sh*t.

BillAce

iTrader: (2)

The power handling of a sub is a thermal limit based on a lab test. It means very little. The upper range is a marketing number used to sell a sub. It is the maximum amount you can put into a sub for 1 second and it not melt.

In the real world, the temps of the woofer in an enclosure in yout trunk are far above the testing parameters. DUMAX testing will show the maximum excursion, compression and the power level needed to reach the full excursion. These numbers are nowhere near what these marketing idiots print on the box.

Andrew LB

Heh.... i just bought a used SoundStream Reference 1000s off ebay which is 1000x1 RMS Pure Class A design. Its going to rock my Boston Pro 12's.

My SoundStream Reference 500s will be moved to power my front speakers.

Waz996

iTrader: (1)

I used the 10inch JL in a sealed box in the trunk.. It's giving me a super bump that's very mild and only heard from inside the car (excpet it's at max volume)..

You can speak easily with a passenger, drive restlessly and not offend anyone around you in other cars in traffic and parking lots (which happen to be all in closed/semi-closed garages in this country)

I love the system and the way BilAce explains and advises about sound systems!

Wae;l