kicker or other?
May 10, 2006, 05:08 PM
#1
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kicker or other?
Ok...i'm having a hard time choosing...my friend is a Kicker fanatic (loudest sound system in the county) but all he has is 2x 12" Kickers thats putting out about .5-1ohm per sub with 500w JL amp.
Now I was wondering if I should get a Kicker or an 18" monster (or two) Such as this TP sub puts out about 1300w RMS (probably 4-8 ohms though) w/ over 100dB While the kicker only has 750w RMS with dual 2 ohms and only 87dB.
What would be a better buy?
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-TECHNICAL-PR...QQcmdZViewItem
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-04S12L74-...QQcmdZViewItem
Now I was wondering if I should get a Kicker or an 18" monster (or two) Such as this TP sub puts out about 1300w RMS (probably 4-8 ohms though) w/ over 100dB While the kicker only has 750w RMS with dual 2 ohms and only 87dB.
What would be a better buy?
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-TECHNICAL-PR...QQcmdZViewItem
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-04S12L74-...QQcmdZViewItem
May 10, 2006, 06:29 PM
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i dont know if an 18 is such a good idea for the lancer.. all it will do it rattle and rattle and rattle... i only have 1 Diamond D612D2 12" w/ a Diamond D3600.1 amp and all is does is rattle. i dont really care for either of those 2, but if those were the only 2 i had to choose from it would be the kicker
May 11, 2006, 05:21 AM
#5
Okay the JL W7 comes in 8, 10, 12, and 13 inch. the 8, 10, and 12 inch are single voice coils 3 ohms. The 13 comes in a dual voice coil 1.5 ohm. I would go with one of the JL amps maybe the 1000/1 which is 1000 RMS at 1.5Ohms TO 4Ohms. Jl amps are all mono amps by the way. The thing about the JL amps is that they maintain the same RMS throughout the entire operating impedance range unlike a lot of the other brands. So to sum it up and since you want it loud, i wuld go with the JL 1000/1 with the JL 13W7.
May 11, 2006, 06:54 AM
#6
It is hard top find a bad sub, only bad applications. A sub is a part of a system to produce low frequencies and includes a woofer, enclosure and amplifier. There are a few incorrect assumptions about subs that I'll try to explain.
A sub doesn't put out ohms, the impedance is the measure of the resistance of the voice coil(s). This is a design feature of the speaker and is not what it seams. THe impedance (ohms) change with the frequency the speaker is playing. The impedance isn't even the same as the spec when you take the speaker off the store shelf. The enclosure also has an effect on the final impedance curve. You use impedance to match the correct amp to your subwoofer system. 100W @ .5 ohms is no louder than 1000 watts @ 8 ohms. HIgher impedance is probably better is almost all cases.
Speakers do not make power, the actually waste tons of it. Your typical sub will use 3-5% of the power it receives, the remaining 95-97% of the power is lost as heat. (common reason for failure).
The efficiency measurement does not tell you much about a subwoofer performance. Just like amplifiers, speaker specs are full of BS. The efficiency or sensetivity of a speaker is measured by placing a microphone 1 meter away from a speaker and giving it 1 watt of power. The frequency used for this test is 1KHz which is way outside the range asub would ever be played at.
The big, badass subs are generally a waste of money. Here is an example using Kicker since you mentioned them
Comp 12 L7
1 watt 89.1 87.4
2 92.1 90.4
4 95.1 93.4
8 98.1 96.4
16 101.1 99.4
32 104.1 102.4
64 107.1 105.4
128 110.1 108.4
256 111.4
512 114.4
If you purchase (2) plain comps for the same cost as 1 L7 you pick up 3db more and are @ 113.1. There is a 1db difference and you did this with half the power or saved $200. There is also things to consider like power compression that the square Kickers really suffer from so these results would be less favorable for the L7 in the real world.
Figure out how much room you have for an enclosure, buy the best amp you can afford. This is the key element and the most expensive. If the amp has 1500w printed on it in 2" numbers with guages, LEDs and chrome, it probably isn't the best choice. Then get the sub(s) that match that enclosure volume and power level.
Here is another way to look at this. Think engines. My Evo has a 2.0L motor. There is a bore (piston area) and stroke (excursion). You can build the bottom end of the motor and increase stroke to 2.3L. THere are subs that have more excursion or stroke. Piston area would be 12", 10" whatever you choose. To use JL as an example. THe W7 has 29mm one way excursion (really 21mm at best) and the W3 has 13mm. If you spent your money on (3) W3's instead of a W7 its about the same amount of money and requires about the same amount of power, the W3's would outperform the W7 easily. 39mm stroke>29mm stroke.
Take the whole sub system into consideration and match the diffent components (sub, amp, box) for hte best results.
A sub doesn't put out ohms, the impedance is the measure of the resistance of the voice coil(s). This is a design feature of the speaker and is not what it seams. THe impedance (ohms) change with the frequency the speaker is playing. The impedance isn't even the same as the spec when you take the speaker off the store shelf. The enclosure also has an effect on the final impedance curve. You use impedance to match the correct amp to your subwoofer system. 100W @ .5 ohms is no louder than 1000 watts @ 8 ohms. HIgher impedance is probably better is almost all cases.
Speakers do not make power, the actually waste tons of it. Your typical sub will use 3-5% of the power it receives, the remaining 95-97% of the power is lost as heat. (common reason for failure).
The efficiency measurement does not tell you much about a subwoofer performance. Just like amplifiers, speaker specs are full of BS. The efficiency or sensetivity of a speaker is measured by placing a microphone 1 meter away from a speaker and giving it 1 watt of power. The frequency used for this test is 1KHz which is way outside the range asub would ever be played at.
The big, badass subs are generally a waste of money. Here is an example using Kicker since you mentioned them
Comp 12 L7
1 watt 89.1 87.4
2 92.1 90.4
4 95.1 93.4
8 98.1 96.4
16 101.1 99.4
32 104.1 102.4
64 107.1 105.4
128 110.1 108.4
256 111.4
512 114.4
If you purchase (2) plain comps for the same cost as 1 L7 you pick up 3db more and are @ 113.1. There is a 1db difference and you did this with half the power or saved $200. There is also things to consider like power compression that the square Kickers really suffer from so these results would be less favorable for the L7 in the real world.
Figure out how much room you have for an enclosure, buy the best amp you can afford. This is the key element and the most expensive. If the amp has 1500w printed on it in 2" numbers with guages, LEDs and chrome, it probably isn't the best choice. Then get the sub(s) that match that enclosure volume and power level.
Here is another way to look at this. Think engines. My Evo has a 2.0L motor. There is a bore (piston area) and stroke (excursion). You can build the bottom end of the motor and increase stroke to 2.3L. THere are subs that have more excursion or stroke. Piston area would be 12", 10" whatever you choose. To use JL as an example. THe W7 has 29mm one way excursion (really 21mm at best) and the W3 has 13mm. If you spent your money on (3) W3's instead of a W7 its about the same amount of money and requires about the same amount of power, the W3's would outperform the W7 easily. 39mm stroke>29mm stroke.
Take the whole sub system into consideration and match the diffent components (sub, amp, box) for hte best results.
Originally Posted by turboslik
Ok...i'm having a hard time choosing...my friend is a Kicker fanatic (loudest sound system in the county) but all he has is 2x 12" Kickers thats putting out about .5-1ohm per sub with 500w JL amp.
Now I was wondering if I should get a Kicker or an 18" monster (or two) Such as this TP sub puts out about 1300w RMS (probably 4-8 ohms though) w/ over 100dB While the kicker only has 750w RMS with dual 2 ohms and only 87dB.
What would be a better buy?
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-TECHNICAL-PR...QQcmdZViewItem
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-04S12L74-...QQcmdZViewItem
Now I was wondering if I should get a Kicker or an 18" monster (or two) Such as this TP sub puts out about 1300w RMS (probably 4-8 ohms though) w/ over 100dB While the kicker only has 750w RMS with dual 2 ohms and only 87dB.
What would be a better buy?
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-TECHNICAL-PR...QQcmdZViewItem
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-04S12L74-...QQcmdZViewItem
May 11, 2006, 04:32 PM
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there is ALOT of factors to take into consideration when building a system, what billace said and more ... if you dont know much about it generally stick to the high perfomance brands, and go to a store and tryout a setup. kicker L7s are really nice subs and outperform alot with the right setup. W7s are prolly the nicest but in my peference arnt worth the price. 12' kicker $150 >12' W7 $600
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May 12, 2006, 12:10 AM
#11
in my audi i had 3 eclipse titanium 12's, 2 pheonix gold amps xenon 1200.1, 3 caps and put out 151 dp......subs are 350 each amp is 390 each caps are 80.....find a system louder and clearer than that for the money times 2......l7's are loud as fuuck...but the sq isn't all that at all...very important to most people... w7's are by far the loudest and clearest until u spend a toooooon of money but for 600-800 a pop...i rather have 2 subs...
back to topic...if u wanan stick with kicker...their best sub for quality and loudness is the l7 10".....not very much reverb like the 12's and 15's they make...2 of those with a 1200.1 amp and ur set...with a perfect box around 135db with a ****ty box around 115....the box is just as important as the amp and subs....dont forget to get some really thick wires 1/0 gauge or 2 gauge....you can do 4 but it might cut out
cheers
back to topic...if u wanan stick with kicker...their best sub for quality and loudness is the l7 10".....not very much reverb like the 12's and 15's they make...2 of those with a 1200.1 amp and ur set...with a perfect box around 135db with a ****ty box around 115....the box is just as important as the amp and subs....dont forget to get some really thick wires 1/0 gauge or 2 gauge....you can do 4 but it might cut out
cheers
^^
Jun 22, 2006, 07:07 AM
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Kickers are outta this world, My car and my fiance's car has kicker, not one problem yet. My kicker 15" comp cvr blows away most subs, but solo Barics are definetly some of the loudest you can get, they kick the shiat out of the JL. My friend had a jimmy loaded with kicker and it wasted everything i have seen before. Kicker is Livin Loud, and as far as clarity goes if you are gonna port it go with the sloted ports, it makes the sound way cleaner.
Jun 22, 2006, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by turboslik
Ok...i'm having a hard time choosing...my friend is a Kicker fanatic (loudest sound system in the county) but all he has is 2x 12" Kickers thats putting out about .5-1ohm per sub with 500w JL amp.
Now I was wondering if I should get a Kicker or an 18" monster (or two) Such as this TP sub puts out about 1300w RMS (probably 4-8 ohms though) w/ over 100dB While the kicker only has 750w RMS with dual 2 ohms and only 87dB.
Now I was wondering if I should get a Kicker or an 18" monster (or two) Such as this TP sub puts out about 1300w RMS (probably 4-8 ohms though) w/ over 100dB While the kicker only has 750w RMS with dual 2 ohms and only 87dB.
Omg, dude if you tried to put an 18" monster X in that car you would have to change all of you windows to plexiglass, take out your back seat, use up all of you trunk, put some batteries and caps where the passenger seat is, put an amp rack on the roof, and wear headphones to stop you from going deaf.