Dookie

I have read some threads on "how to's", but after doing it myself, I found them to either be flat out wrong, or a little wrong. This installation is for an OZ Rally, so the other models may be different.

Basics:
From what I can tell, not a single company makes the correct speaker size that will just drop right in, using the stock mounting holes. They actually look like a 7" speaker. In any event, oversized 6 1/2's WILL fit, with a little modification. My Premier TS-616's came with nutplate tabs that turned out to be perfect for this installation. As far as tools, you will need a drill, stubby and regular length philips head screw drivers, a marker, a tiny eyeglass type flathead screwdriver, and a putty knife would be helpful.

Front Door Speakers:
Make sure your windows are down so you can see if the magnet is too big, or not, when you install the aftermarket speaker. You need to take off the entire door panel. It's not hard at all. Make sure you remember where the screws go because they are different sizes and lengths. When you pop the tabs, this is where I used little flat head screwdrivers. If you find something different, then by all means, use it. First pop of the tab inside the cup where you would put your hand when you pull on the door to close it and take out one philips head screw. Then, pop the tab behind the door handle and take out another philips screw. This will release the plastic assembly behind the door handle. Even though the screw is out, be careful because the assembly is still held in by a few plastic clips, which could break with excessive force. This cup slides forward then out, but with the door panel still being there, it's kinda hard, so you can do it later on as you pull the door panel off. Next is to pop of the little tabs for the last two screw. There is one on the front part of the door, and one on the rear. Take those out as well. Now, all that is left is clips. If you have a putty knife, this should do the trick. I didn't so I used my hands. Find a spot in the door panel and start pulling on the panel. There are little white clips that hold the panel on. Make sure to give it a good tug because they are on there good. Some of the clips will come off of the door panel and stay on the door frame itself. It's okay. Just pry those off and reinstall them on the door panel before you go to install it. After you get the door panel off, you will see the speaker. Take off the four screws and elctrical connector, take it out. RETAIN the four stock screws because the heads are much wider than the aftermarket ones that come with the new speakers! Now this is a little messy, but you have to do it because the drill bit will get wrapped up in it if you don't do it. Peel off the clear plastic so the metal is exposed at the speaker hole. Now take the aftermarket speaker and center it as much as possible in the hole. The outer tabs that stick out from the frame are the ones that we are going to be using. Take a marker and mark the holes where the tabs are after you have it centered as possible. Take the speker back out and drill away. If you have nut plates that came with the speaker, use a 11/64" drill bit. If they didn't come with nutplates, you will have to use a drill bit slightly smaller than the screw diameter so you can make the screw tap into the door frame. After you made the holes, put the clear plastic back over the speaker hole and punch some holes in the plastic where you just drilled. Cut and splice the speaker wires into the speaker. Next is to install the speaker using the STOCK screws. You should be able to see why, as the head area makes for plenty of adjustment with the speaker. Installation of the door panel is reverse of removal.

Rear speakers:
A lot easier. This time you will need a stubby philips head screwdriver to access the two rear speaker mount screws. I have read that someone said to pry off the the child anchor hooks and to take those bolts off. Not so! You just have to take off the speaker grills. There are three screws for each one, installed upside down from inside the trunk. They are black with little white tabs on top of the screw heads. Take those out and remove the speaker grill. You should now be able to see the speaker. Same instructions as before. Take stock screws out and RETAIN them for later use. Drill holes. Splice wires, and install speakers. Installation for speaker grills are reverse of instllation. Just make sure you line up the white tabs sitting in the rear deck to match the notches in the speaker grill.

All done!!!

If anyone has any questions....please post and ask!

Jizzay1

FYI, my Infinity Kappa 6.5's came with an adapter ring that made them fit in the front and rear PERFECTLY!

Red_Evo_VIII

iTrader: (1)

I know I could probably find this out with a little research but I'm feeling lazy ...do you by any chance know what colors are positive and negative for each of the speakers. Also, I've also found it to be a lot easier by not unscrewing the white tabs on the back speaker grill and just pushing them up thru, that way you don't have to worry about lining them up when reinstalling... But thanks, I was curious about how to take the front panels off.

Marzochi

it doesn't really matter. Only thing is that the speakers might end up out of phase with each other. If thats the case, just reverse one of them. You'll notice this when you turn on all your left and right pairs of speakers and notice a loss of volume and frequencies. you will loose different frequencies depending upon where you are in relation to them (thats becuase of the differing wave lengths and zeroing points)

cupOZnj

there's a wiring diagram that will tell you what color is what. anyway, it doesn't matter as long as you are consistent. if you make red/white stripe negative and red positive, then do it on both sides (and on rear). i'm not sure if front and rear have different colors but the sides should be the same.

tlebl11

if you don't feel like looking up the wiring diagram just test it on a 12 volt battery....If the speaker pops out, then the pos and neg are right....If it pops in, then the pos and neg are the opposite of the terminals they're on. That's how I tested mine. If you need a better explanation, just holla.

Marzochi

That just tells you the pos and neg of the speaker, not the wires coming from the amp.

drummerjun

iTrader: (20)

Somehow helpful, but when it comes to me dumb n00b like me...

Marzochi

print out the howto. Take it to your car and look at it. It will make sense.

tlebl11

if you're changing out the stock speakers there are little numbers where the wire goes into the stock harness....1 and 2 to be exact. If I remember right the 1 wire is pos and the 2 wire is neg.

762kameron

Changeing out the stock speakers in the OZ the YB=POS YR=NEG(THAT IS ON THE LEFT SIDE) LG=POS AND YG=NEG (THIS ON THE RIGHT SIDE)

Red_Evo_VIII

iTrader: (1)

Thanks all. I knew I was lazy...I still haven't checked it myself

underPar

I am going to be doing a speaker install pretty soon here, ill take some pics and post them to help you guys get a better idea of how to do it

purecoda

iTrader: (6)

i would change two things about this thread.

1. pics
2. break up the instructions with numbers or letters. that is one huge honking paragraph that's kinda hard to follow.

Lance Dogg

<ahem> i already did the whole pics of install thing....

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=26007

there ya go, guys