A little tuning help please?
#76
Newbie
Thread Starter
I don't think there's a problem running lean. I've been running 17's and 18's since I boosted. My EGTs arent that much higher either. I tuned for a 15-15.5ish AFR when I'm cruising. I like to run a little leaner to save gas. Stoich (14.7 afr) is actually hotter. It burns better which is why the EPA likes cars to run 14.7. I say just tune your car for open loop. It takes a while but is worth it. Like Crans said you could probably push up to a 13 AFR since you're not boosted. Getting a EGT gauge might be best though.
#78
Newbie
Thread Starter
I thought it would be better than doing it by coolant temp. I know that throws codes. It's coming along well. Trims were totally wrong. My WOT is really good. Steady around 13.5 and for a fraction of a second it hits 12.4. Absolutely no knock so far either. Any pointers on tuning for open loop? Just want to be sure I'm going about it as best as possible.
#79
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
I thought it would be better than doing it by coolant temp. I know that throws codes. It's coming along well. Trims were totally wrong. My WOT is really good. Steady around 13.5 and for a fraction of a second it hits 12.4. Absolutely no knock so far either. Any pointers on tuning for open loop? Just want to be sure I'm going about it as best as possible.
no knock at 13.5 AFR? you need to run more boost, or have a look at your ignition timing lol...
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Sep 12, 2015 at 06:04 PM.
#80
Newbie
Thread Starter
I'm not boosted yet man, so I really do need to run more boost. My engine is most likely too tired for boost. So i will be buying a 4g94 or 4g64 to rebuild before i boost. For now I just want to get the most out of what I have and learn to tune.
#81
Newbie
Thread Starter
I'm getting closer with my fueling. Just need to get my cruising a little less lean, except around 30mph where it's a little rich. Then i will move on to my timing. Right now I have my timing set as a slightly more aggressive 4g93 map. Reason being theirs is smoother so it was easier to clean up. I know I can easily add a little more without knock. It's great not blowing a giant cloud of smoke anymore too!
#82
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
to get the most out of N/A, if you can keep that 13.5 AFR at WOT, and dip it smoothly into the high 12's by redline, and see how much timing you can run using the highest octane fuel that's affordable/accessible. you're on the right track, once you get your AFR dialed in, then start adding timing 1 degree at a time to every cell in the map that's above the conditions that would fall under "normal" driving, until that cell causes knock, then subtract a degree or two, and leave it, continue this until the top end is like that, and you should notice the "but dyno" improvements...then give it a month, and you'll feel like it lost power somehow...but you'll just be used to it...drive another familiar car that hasn't changed and you'll notice 13.7 second quarter miles feel slow to me now, plus I have a buddy with a low 11s to high 10s car running like 40psi boost, and I rode shotgun at the track a few times. that made my car feel like a prius...
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Sep 14, 2015 at 09:04 PM.
#83
Newbie
Thread Starter
oh yeah, right, jeez when I said your AFR was dipping in the 9's I assumed you were running boost, lol that is crazy rich, even for 20psi+. and what do you mean your engine is tired? I turbocharged mine at 190k km (118k mi) and I'm now at 250k km (155k mi) running 14psi. So far, so good...if you're getting a spare motor anyway, put the boost to it...lol
to get the most out of N/A, if you can keep that 13.5 AFR at WOT, and dip it smoothly into the high 12's by redline, and see how much timing you can run using the highest octane fuel that's affordable/accessible. you're on the right track, once you get your AFR dialed in, then start adding timing 1 degree at a time to every cell in the map that's above the conditions that would fall under "normal" driving, until that cell causes knock, then subtract a degree or two, and leave it, continue this until the top end is like that, and you should notice the "but dyno" improvements...then give it a month, and you'll feel like it lost power somehow...but you'll just be used to it...drive another familiar car that hasn't changed and you'll notice 13.7 second quarter miles feel slow to me now, plus I have a buddy with a low 11s to high 10s car running like 40psi boost, and I rode shotgun at the track a few times. that made my car feel like a prius...
to get the most out of N/A, if you can keep that 13.5 AFR at WOT, and dip it smoothly into the high 12's by redline, and see how much timing you can run using the highest octane fuel that's affordable/accessible. you're on the right track, once you get your AFR dialed in, then start adding timing 1 degree at a time to every cell in the map that's above the conditions that would fall under "normal" driving, until that cell causes knock, then subtract a degree or two, and leave it, continue this until the top end is like that, and you should notice the "but dyno" improvements...then give it a month, and you'll feel like it lost power somehow...but you'll just be used to it...drive another familiar car that hasn't changed and you'll notice 13.7 second quarter miles feel slow to me now, plus I have a buddy with a low 11s to high 10s car running like 40psi boost, and I rode shotgun at the track a few times. that made my car feel like a prius...
#84
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
Glad to hear its coming along. If you can cruise in the rich area a while and log it, it will be easy to determine exactly which area you need to adjust on the MAF smoothing. Be sure to compare your wideband to your "afr map" but don't forget your fuel map when doing wot pulls. I found it easier to slowly increase the throttle to get those upper maf readings.
#85
Newbie
Thread Starter
Glad to hear its coming along. If you can cruise in the rich area a while and log it, it will be easy to determine exactly which area you need to adjust on the MAF smoothing. Be sure to compare your wideband to your "afr map" but don't forget your fuel map when doing wot pulls. I found it easier to slowly increase the throttle to get those upper maf readings.
#87
Newbie
Thread Starter
It indeed does go back and forth just not around 14.7. I'd guess it averages to 15.8...
#89
Newbie
Thread Starter
My trims are near perfect and it's still lean. The mornings are cooler now, but this afternoon while it was warm, I took a decent drive and closed loop was leaner after driving. I thought about putting my old MAF in with the bigger plate from the 501 since the electronics are supposed to be the same. I still wonder if my front O2 is bad and just reading wrong. I have had a few exhaust issues and been running rich in open loop with it in. I think I might be able to replace it under warranty, so it couldn't hurt. Thoughts?