Front Motor Mount installed(Finally!)
Oct 28, 2007, 05:41 PM
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Location: Springfield, MO
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Front Motor Mount installed(Finally!)
Well, it took a while, but I finally got a Deyeme Racing Front Motor Mount, and installed it today. I couldn't really find a writeup on it or anything, but it was so easy I didn't mind. I did this in a driveway, without jack stands or anything.
Tools needed: Torque Wrench(I used a ratchet), 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 14mm open-end or box wrench
Step 1: Loosen the crossmember that the mount bolts to. Some people have done this without doing this step, but I found it easier. Use the 17mm socket, and loosen the two bolts, but don't completely remove them. The bolts have a thread-locking compound on them, so they will be kinda tough, but mine weren't even slightly rusted so they came off pretty easy.
Step 2: Remove the center bolt on the mount. This is the bolt running through the middle of the mount, and it is what holds the engine to the mount. Use your 14mm wrench on the bolt head, and the 14mm socket on the nut. If you're having trouble, there's a trick to get extra leverage by taking a box-end wrench, sliding the handle of the ratchet or torque wrench through the box-end and using it as an extended handle. Again, the bolt has a thread-locking compound applied, and again mine was not rusted so it came of fairly easy.
Step 3: Remove the crossmember bolts. Those two 17mm bolts, they can come out now. Now you can lower the crossmember enough to get at the bolts holding the mount on. I found this easier than trying to use an extension on my ratchet. Remove those bolts, and now the mount is off.
Step 4: Reverse. Now that the stock mount is off, you can see the difference in the Deyeme(or RRM if you bought that one instead) mount. Take the new mount and bolt it to the crossmember, torque would be 50 ft/lbs if you have a torque wrench. Next start the crossmember bolts back in, but don't tighten them all the way, so you'll have some play whilst doing the center bolt. Bolt the mount back to the engine, torquing the center bolt to 33 ft/lbs if you've got a torque wrench. Now tighten the crossmember bolts, I couldn't find the proper torque, but frigging tight oughta do.
Now go out and test drive it, both normal driving and hard driving, then come back and check that your bolts are still good and tight, or if you torqued them don't worry about it.
I'd provide pics, but I have no camera at the moment, and this isn't something you really need a visua guide for. If you can see the part, you can see pretty much everything you need to do to swap it out.
After the install, I did some driving around of course, and I can definately feel a difference. Not like a "Holy crap the POWERRRRR!!!!!" kinda difference, but when the auto shifts, there's no longer that loss of momentum. Instead of being like "vroommmmmmmm*shift*......vrooommmmmmmm" it's "Vroommmmm*shift*vrooommmmmmmm".
Also, say I just shifted from park to drive, and I let off the brake. Stock I'd just sit there, idling but not moving anywhere until I hit the gas(on a level surface). Now I let off the brake and it rolls forward on it's own, even up slight inclines.
I didn't time it, but 0-60 improved ever so slightly, and when the track opens in spring I'll go get a 1/4 time to compare with my current 17.9 seconds.
Tools needed: Torque Wrench(I used a ratchet), 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 14mm open-end or box wrench
Step 1: Loosen the crossmember that the mount bolts to. Some people have done this without doing this step, but I found it easier. Use the 17mm socket, and loosen the two bolts, but don't completely remove them. The bolts have a thread-locking compound on them, so they will be kinda tough, but mine weren't even slightly rusted so they came off pretty easy.
Step 2: Remove the center bolt on the mount. This is the bolt running through the middle of the mount, and it is what holds the engine to the mount. Use your 14mm wrench on the bolt head, and the 14mm socket on the nut. If you're having trouble, there's a trick to get extra leverage by taking a box-end wrench, sliding the handle of the ratchet or torque wrench through the box-end and using it as an extended handle. Again, the bolt has a thread-locking compound applied, and again mine was not rusted so it came of fairly easy.
Step 3: Remove the crossmember bolts. Those two 17mm bolts, they can come out now. Now you can lower the crossmember enough to get at the bolts holding the mount on. I found this easier than trying to use an extension on my ratchet. Remove those bolts, and now the mount is off.
Step 4: Reverse. Now that the stock mount is off, you can see the difference in the Deyeme(or RRM if you bought that one instead) mount. Take the new mount and bolt it to the crossmember, torque would be 50 ft/lbs if you have a torque wrench. Next start the crossmember bolts back in, but don't tighten them all the way, so you'll have some play whilst doing the center bolt. Bolt the mount back to the engine, torquing the center bolt to 33 ft/lbs if you've got a torque wrench. Now tighten the crossmember bolts, I couldn't find the proper torque, but frigging tight oughta do.
Now go out and test drive it, both normal driving and hard driving, then come back and check that your bolts are still good and tight, or if you torqued them don't worry about it.
I'd provide pics, but I have no camera at the moment, and this isn't something you really need a visua guide for. If you can see the part, you can see pretty much everything you need to do to swap it out.
After the install, I did some driving around of course, and I can definately feel a difference. Not like a "Holy crap the POWERRRRR!!!!!" kinda difference, but when the auto shifts, there's no longer that loss of momentum. Instead of being like "vroommmmmmmm*shift*......vrooommmmmmmm" it's "Vroommmmm*shift*vrooommmmmmmm".
Also, say I just shifted from park to drive, and I let off the brake. Stock I'd just sit there, idling but not moving anywhere until I hit the gas(on a level surface). Now I let off the brake and it rolls forward on it's own, even up slight inclines.
I didn't time it, but 0-60 improved ever so slightly, and when the track opens in spring I'll go get a 1/4 time to compare with my current 17.9 seconds.
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