NKY

I was just given an 02 Lancer OZ with about 165K miles from my parents that I plan on using as a dd instead of my full size truck. The only problem is the timing belt gave out and it bent a rod. I checked the #1 piston and it had compression, but gave up after #2 didn't have any. I've priced a re-manufactured head for as low as $250, but I still haven't pulled the head off to see if there is any other damage. I priced engines from salvage yards and found one from an 03 an hour from me that has 63K miles for $350. So, now I plan on just swapping out the engine instead of tearing in to the old one and possibly finding more problems.

I've used the search feature and found a lot of great info here. The first thing I did was download the FSM. I've also found a couple of threads about just swapping a 4g94 for the same, but it's hard to find the right threads with all the talk of swapping out the 4g94 for something else. Overall, the process seems pretty straight forward, but I have a couple of questions before I get started.

It is an automatic, and the only threads I can find covers pulling the engine from a manual. Do I have to unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate in order to pull the motor, or do I pull it out with it connected? I checked the manual, but it didn't really cover this. I've replaced a clutch before on an old Nissan truck about 15 years ago, but have never pulled an engine or transmission on anything with an auto before.

I plan on changing out the timing belt and water pump before I put the replacement motor in and I've started to wonder. Is there any other preventative maintenance I should do? I read in one of the threads about replacing the rear main, but is that necessary? Also, any recommendations about any aftermarket parts that are preferred or brands to stay away from? The old motor had minimum maintenance done to it (hence the original timing belt failing at 160K) and that was the first major problem. The motor I'm putting in has about 100K miles less than the one I'm replacing it with and I doubt I will put anywhere near 100k miles on it anytime soon. I bought my truck new in 05 and it only has 58,XXX on it.

It also has the broken ac knob and I'm wondering what the cheapest fix is? I looked this up for my parents a while back, and remember reading something about getting another broken one and using the parts to make one good unit. I also plan on replacing the gears with the updated version and replacing the cable once the knob is fixed. Other than everything I mentioned there are a few other small problems, but overall the car is in good shape.


Thanks in advance for any advice you all may offer!!!

Mark

NKY

Anyone..... Bueller...... Bueller............. Buelller........................

For those of you young'ins who don't know don't know what I'm talking about...


Seriously though, I plan on picking up the motor Monday and tearing into this next week. I like to plan things out as much as I can, so I was hoping someone had some advice.

Thanks!

Mark

NKY

Picked up the motor today. 03 with under 63k for $374 after tax. Not too excited to tear into the car but I'm looking forward to having a gas saver.

I was also looking into the heater/ac control fix and finally found the solution.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-06-LANCER-Heater-Control-Panel-Switch-Knob-Shaft-EVOLUTION-OUTLANDER-/251236688659?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AMitsubishi%7CModel%3ALancer&hash=item3a7edfa313&vxp=mtr
$22 seems a little pricey for a little piece of plastic, but if you've priced the whole unit you already know expensive a small chunk of plastic can be.

2006_RA

iTrader: (1)

Hi Mark,

I hazzard to say the old engine has a bent valve hence no compression.
The valves normally go when the timing belt does, the rods tend to be fine.

Given what you paid for the replacement engine though, you've lucked out.
Timing belt, water pump etc, you've nailed it really.
I have not touched an automatic but I would say whether the plate stays or not, you sound like you can handle it either way.
Good luck.

03lances

iTrader: (14)

Although this is irrelevent now that you have another engine but... Are you sure it has a bent rod?? I have dealt with many engines after a timing belt goes and I have never seen a bent rod happen from a broken timing belt. Bent valves yes even sometimes piston damage but never a bent rod. I just recently put a 4G94 back together after the cam gear pin on the camshaft sheared off (turbo'ed car but not mine). Anyways that was really bad I had to replace every valve guide as they were all cracked or completely busted. Regrind a couple valve seats and replace 10 of the 16 valves. But even then the pistons and rods were fine.

NKY

Meant to say valve in the first post. Bent rod, bent valve... same difference... right? (Sarcasm)

Spent today pricing parts and tomorrow they will be ordered. Next week the fun begins.

sadude

iTrader: (6)

Any update here? I have the same question as you...do you have to unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel or does it all come together?

sadude

iTrader: (6)

In case u haven't figured it out....there is a small access panel on the engine side held in by 2 x 10 mm bolts...its a L shaped panel between the lower 2 bell housing bolts.

Once you take that out, rotate the crank pulley and remove all 4 x 17mm bolts

Jdubya555

Hello do you do this while the engine is still in car. The bolts are on the bottom right.? Then do you pull the torque away from flywheel

sadude

iTrader: (6)

Yeah I did this while it was still in the car. I don't recall the exact location but it's an L shaped metal plate held on by 1-2 bolts.

Once the plate is off...you just rotate the engine to expose the bolt...17mm I think and then open up each one. Once you have all the bolts removed then you can remove the engine or the tranny. If you are removing both then I would do this afterwards.

Jdubya555

thx sadude