Help me save it from the scrap yard. 2004 ES
#1
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Thread Starter
Help me save it from the scrap yard. 2004 ES
First post. 51, divorced, two sons 19 and 15. EX wife's neighbor has a 2004 ES 2L that they will give to her for our youngest. What I know. They have owned it since new. 152K, clean body and interior. Had a emission code P0421 they took it to a local garage. Garage told them needs a cat $1500 Radiator is leaking $500 inner and outter tie rod ends $675 clean and adjust rear brakes $55 Front pads and rotors $360. So they said Fkit. Parked it and has sat for a year.
I went by yesterday oil full, radiator full and clean. Put a charger and jump box on it and it runs, warms up sounds fine, goes into Drive and Reverse. Owner came out and said he was driving it when he parked it. I asked about timing belt he said nope as far as he knows. The bad, hazards don't flash neither do the turn signals. He said it's had it's electrical gremlins with light bulbs? Water leak passengerside floor is wet.
The Plan would be to investigate and fix what is needed as a father/son project. I'm the kind of guy who would also do timing belt/water pump, struts just because of it's age. I have no problem doing the above listed work. To me parts are cheap. Seems like the garage they took it to was criminal! Is this car worth saving? Engine and transmission have life left? Assuming?
Also apparently his father is a dirt bag. Came by one day and swapped the wheels so it has bald tires on some ugly steel wheels. I would like suggestions for a stock/cheap decent looking wheel that maybe I could get at a junkyard/crazyrays.
I went by yesterday oil full, radiator full and clean. Put a charger and jump box on it and it runs, warms up sounds fine, goes into Drive and Reverse. Owner came out and said he was driving it when he parked it. I asked about timing belt he said nope as far as he knows. The bad, hazards don't flash neither do the turn signals. He said it's had it's electrical gremlins with light bulbs? Water leak passengerside floor is wet.
The Plan would be to investigate and fix what is needed as a father/son project. I'm the kind of guy who would also do timing belt/water pump, struts just because of it's age. I have no problem doing the above listed work. To me parts are cheap. Seems like the garage they took it to was criminal! Is this car worth saving? Engine and transmission have life left? Assuming?
Also apparently his father is a dirt bag. Came by one day and swapped the wheels so it has bald tires on some ugly steel wheels. I would like suggestions for a stock/cheap decent looking wheel that maybe I could get at a junkyard/crazyrays.
#3
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Thread Starter
Thanks OZR, I know those prices are a rip off. I can do any work on the car myself. What I would like to know is are they good cars in general. With 152K on it does it have some life left. Where to start looking for cure for no trun/hazard signals.
#4
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iTrader: (58)
Yes, these cars should have plenty of life in them.
Went through something similar and bought a friends 2006 Es. Had that code and exhaust was leaking from all over the place. Went to rockauto and replaced from the downpipe all the way to muffler. Replace upper O2 sensor from Amazon don't bother with the lower but I did install a spacer for the bottom O2. No code for 4 months now.
Wheels should be easy, Craigslist. I saw someone local selling OZ wheels for 100
Good luck
Went through something similar and bought a friends 2006 Es. Had that code and exhaust was leaking from all over the place. Went to rockauto and replaced from the downpipe all the way to muffler. Replace upper O2 sensor from Amazon don't bother with the lower but I did install a spacer for the bottom O2. No code for 4 months now.
Wheels should be easy, Craigslist. I saw someone local selling OZ wheels for 100
Good luck
#5
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
not sure what you mean by "Where to start looking for cure for no trun/hazard signals. "....
with that car of that age, milage, have the belts inspected and replace any that have a chip or tear in them, check the tensioner, water pump etc.. much easier when belts are off is to check everything that thy wrap around
with that car of that age, milage, have the belts inspected and replace any that have a chip or tear in them, check the tensioner, water pump etc.. much easier when belts are off is to check everything that thy wrap around
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
Ok I have a few pictures over in the troubleshooting section.
What I mean by no turn or hazard lights is they don't work. Horn also only clicks relay in underhood fuse box. If you put 12v to horns they will blow. Are these all signs of a bad ETACS. IF anybody has a parts car I think I need one. Also would like some better wheels. Live in Maryland.
Here is car.
What I mean by no turn or hazard lights is they don't work. Horn also only clicks relay in underhood fuse box. If you put 12v to horns they will blow. Are these all signs of a bad ETACS. IF anybody has a parts car I think I need one. Also would like some better wheels. Live in Maryland.
Here is car.
#7
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
if turns don't work, to make it easier, change all bulbs involved front and back. remember driverside turns/hazzards are linked to rear
as are passenger side, so if one is out/bad you get rapid blinking etc. the header is a easy swap once you get past the bolt from hell.....
here is a image ( from 2015 )of my oem header, what you don't see ( you will on 2nd image ) is bolt from hell. to get that out
you need a offset wrench ( I bought a whole set to add to my tool box ) to get that out. once its out u don't have to put it back in...
I hope you have a set of tools available cause you will need it. esp a offset wrench and a o2 sensor plug socket
here is a video of me replacing my header ( unbolting of old header ). remember to take your time... getting that bolt out took longer and didn't have video, too much cursing lol
Old
New/replacement
hope some of this helps....
as are passenger side, so if one is out/bad you get rapid blinking etc. the header is a easy swap once you get past the bolt from hell.....
here is a image ( from 2015 )of my oem header, what you don't see ( you will on 2nd image ) is bolt from hell. to get that out
you need a offset wrench ( I bought a whole set to add to my tool box ) to get that out. once its out u don't have to put it back in...
I hope you have a set of tools available cause you will need it. esp a offset wrench and a o2 sensor plug socket
here is a video of me replacing my header ( unbolting of old header ). remember to take your time... getting that bolt out took longer and didn't have video, too much cursing lol
Old
New/replacement
hope some of this helps....
Last edited by OZR_Lancer; Mar 1, 2017 at 01:46 AM.
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#9
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Thread Starter
Ok I'll try changing the bulbs today. Rears look like take light assembly off car for bulb change? Fronts? Sorry for the silly question just have not looked hard at it yet. It has no hazard flashers or clicking. Does the hazard switch itself click or have two positions? It seems momentary? I though the ETACS was a common fix for my apparent problems?
Not planning to change manifold at the moment. No CEL and I was going to put the spark plug anti fowler on the one O2 sensor just for some insurance. I assume everyone here has done timing belt? It has 152 and as far as PO knows never been done.
My List is turn signals/hazards, brakes, suspension,timing belt/waterpump, windshield, wheels and tires.
Not planning to change manifold at the moment. No CEL and I was going to put the spark plug anti fowler on the one O2 sensor just for some insurance. I assume everyone here has done timing belt? It has 152 and as far as PO knows never been done.
My List is turn signals/hazards, brakes, suspension,timing belt/waterpump, windshield, wheels and tires.
#10
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
rears, u will need a phillips screwdriver , fronts need a socket wrench to remove the housing... once both are out changing bulbs are easy.. if u press that red hazzerd button in dash, ur side markers, front parking lights and rear turn signal lights flash... I was gonna do the fouler thing but me being where I'm at I had no choice... still good learning experience.. my car just past 120k on the odo for being a 14 year old car..
#11
Newbie
Thread Starter
All bulbs work still no trun/hazard or horn. If I have 12v at the hazard fuse does it come back in to the ETACS? The horn relay also clicks but not power getting to horns.
#13
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
bad horns? do you have a multimeter handy ( test to see if power gets to horns when u press the wheel , might need another person to help with this ),
if no power is being read at horns, prolly thy are bad? so you verified all the bulbs work? turn signals blink
when you switch left or right from the steering wheel ? ( engine has to be on for this to work but not started fyi )... check the sockets for corrosion/loose wires etc...
I never seen a hazard switch go bad. when u press that red button, the side markers blink/flash, along with front and rear turn signals...
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...able-here.html
if no power is being read at horns, prolly thy are bad? so you verified all the bulbs work? turn signals blink
when you switch left or right from the steering wheel ? ( engine has to be on for this to work but not started fyi )... check the sockets for corrosion/loose wires etc...
I never seen a hazard switch go bad. when u press that red button, the side markers blink/flash, along with front and rear turn signals...
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...able-here.html
#14
Newbie
Thread Starter
Verified every bulb, Horns work if you put voltage to them. Horn relay clicked in under hood fuse box when you press steering wheel. Going to cut out the connectors in the kick panel and join every wire one at a time. We'll see what I have after that. I saw enough corrosion to do this.
#15
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Thread Starter
Fixed it. Green wires in kick panel. Turn signal one was broke off. I was going to cut each one but ended up just routing the bottom green ones around the connector. It was too much of a pain to do them all. Got the windshield washer motor going with just a tap tap.
Noticed when I had passenger front wheel off that there was some movement in steering. Does not appear to be outer tie rod, is there an inner or is it the steering rack?
Noticed when I had passenger front wheel off that there was some movement in steering. Does not appear to be outer tie rod, is there an inner or is it the steering rack?