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Old Jan 8, 2008, 10:29 PM
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wow this thread hasn't been posted in a while... im finally home and was going to do a oil change but i wanted to get the oil plug gasket changed also but didn't know what size to get and mitsu part was closed.. could anyone tell me what the size of the plug or the gasket is?
Old Jan 9, 2008, 03:21 PM
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The correct size is known as "reuse the stock one, or just don't use one at all. The gasket is a ripoff so can charge you an extra $1 per oil change."



Seriously, I know people who've used the same gasket for 20 oil changes and never had a leak.
Old Jan 10, 2008, 06:28 AM
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I concur with Blacksheep. Between my vehicles and my wife's, I've done maintenance on the better part of 1,000,000 driven miles. Averaging 5,000 miles between oil changes, that's about 200 oil changes on Dodge, Toyota, Porsche, Lancer, and a Suburban. I have almost always reused the old drain plug gasket, and I have never had oil leak at the plug, EVER. Occasionally, I have picked up a fresh gasket, but that's maybe 1 in 10 oil changes.

The gasket should be made of a softer metal than the oil pan and the drain plug. So, when you tighten up the plug, the gasket should conform. It won't matter whether you use a new one or an old one.

So, the next time you change the oil, if you think of it, either measure the gasket or take it to a parts store, and buy a dozen new ones. Then you'll have them on hand.

If you are in the middle of an oil change and you don't have a new gasket, fogeddaboutit. Use the old one, don't worry, be happy!
Old Jan 10, 2008, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by krnkimchi702
wow this thread hasn't been posted in a while... im finally home and was going to do a oil change but i wanted to get the oil plug gasket changed also but didn't know what size to get and mitsu part was closed.. could anyone tell me what the size of the plug or the gasket is?
MD050317 is the part number for the drain plug gasket. Like the other guys were saying, it's not totally necessary to change the washer, so don't go out of your way to find them.

I change the washer every time because I've owned 4 cars, so I have about 30 of them laying around. A magnetic drain plug is a good idea too...not because it catches metal in the pan, but because you can just stick it to your car or wrench and not have to worry about misplacing it
Old Jan 10, 2008, 06:34 PM
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well i didn't read this post before i did it.. so i went to mitsu to get some gaskets.. and the guy handed me 4 new gaskets free of charge..i was sort of confused... i thought i was about to charged gazillion dollars for it.. but free.. sooo i guess i'll be changing for the next 4 oil changes lol
Old Feb 10, 2008, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by nj_08_gts
MD050317 is the part number for the drain plug gasket. Like the other guys were saying, it's not totally necessary to change the washer, so don't go out of your way to find them.

I change the washer every time because I've owned 4 cars, so I have about 30 of them laying around. A magnetic drain plug is a good idea too...not because it catches metal in the pan, but because you can just stick it to your car or wrench and not have to worry about misplacing it
THAT has got to be the best reason I've ever heard for getting a magnetic drain plug!
Old Feb 11, 2008, 01:45 PM
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I got given a few free gaskets as well. I mean they are probably 10 cents each at cost. Also you don't really need them as long as it seals right? Also drain plug torque 30 ft/lbs
Old Feb 11, 2008, 06:30 PM
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As far asother filters.... WIX 57092... Great Filter... AMSOIL EAO-46 Best filter you can buy but not recommended if car is tracked or run hard.

As far as changing back and forth between synthetics and causing problems such as seal and/or gasket failure... Hogwash....

Another Myth: Can't change to Synthetic until the engine is broke-in.... Hogwash ..

Top 2 Synthetic engine oils would be AMSOIL, Mobil 1 EP..... This is according to ASTM Tests among leading brands.

Filters.... Top 3 ... AMSOIL, WIX, Mobil 1


Doc
Old Mar 18, 2008, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by jasiuplguy
For all of those that will be switching to synthetic my suggestion is to break in the engine with regular oil, do not go pass the 3000 mile mark and switch to synthetic, otherwise stay with the regular oil and don't forget to change the oil every 3000mi.

Thanx
Jon
what if we are at about 5.5k miles already? I had my oil changed once at the dealership and im sure they did regular oil, but after reading through all this, i think i want to change to synthetic. is it still possible without damaging the engine?
Old Mar 18, 2008, 04:24 PM
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Run 500 to 1000 miles to get machining and casting debris from the engine. Break-in is virtually non exhistent... As far as your application, there is no maximum miles as long your engine is Mechanically Sound..

Mitsubishi recommends synthetic in the EVO.

Just make sure the oil you run is the proper grade and specification and you will not have any problems.

Doc
Old Mar 20, 2008, 09:45 AM
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thanks a lot! I will be switching to synthetic next time my oil needs changing, and to the K&N filter
Old Mar 20, 2008, 11:08 AM
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I am not a big believer in the K&N Filter. It has a good Micron Rating but does not hold the particulate very well so it releases back into the oil.

Depending on application, I would look at the AMSOIL, WIX and Mobil 1 filters.

The AMSOIL is unbeatable in filtering at 15 Micron Absolute...

I am working on pricing up filter set ups for the people that track their cars, and/or that want the Best in Filtration

It will have 2 oil filters, if we can find a place to mount it. 1 of the filters is a 1 Micron filter, and the other filter will be able swapped out for a Racing Filter, or a regular Full Flow..

Doc
Old Apr 20, 2008, 07:25 PM
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Stolen from AirCooled.net so the last recommendation doesnt really stand.

Synthetic Oil Explained


Whether it's evil stuff or good stuff depends on who you talk to. And a lot of what you hear from backyard mechanics is rumor and myth. Myth # 1 is the claim that you don't have to change Synthetic oil as often as regular motor oil. Remember when Mobil 1 said you could go 25,000 miles between oil changes with synthetic oil? Notice they haven't said that for a good number of years? Keep that thought on the back burner for now... Myth #2 is that synthetic oil causes oil leaks. In this article I'm going to try to dispell these myths for you with the cold hard facts about the differences and similarities between dino vs. synthetic oil.

Let's talk first about what "dino" oil is (Dino is short for Dinosaur, which is when it started forming). Dino oil is created from something called "Base Stock". Base stock what the oil companies get after they have processed the crude oil that comes from the ground. From there, additives are combined with the Base Stock, to create our motor oil. There are 7 main additives which include anti-foaming agents, anti-corrosion, etc, etc. At the molecular level, dino oil contains molecules of varying sizes. Imagine the floor of a gymnasium covered with basketballs, baseballs, volleyballs, and beach *****. Now imagine that all those different size "*****" are moving around, flowing past the floor. Every time a ball surface contacts the floor surface, the ball absorbs heat from the floor. That is how oil removes heat from your engine components, from surface to surface contact.

Now imagine the same gymnasium floor covered in uniformly sized golf *****. Smaller, more uniform molecules can absorb more heat from a surface, because there are more of them AND they have a larger surface to volume ratio which means they have more surface area contact. That's what synthetic oil is. A man-made "Base Stock", where all the molecules are the same size, and smaller than those in dino oil. Better heat transfer, better lubricating properties, and a lot wider temperature range without breakdown, are now obtained.

Myth #1 debunked

Oil does not break down under normal use. This is true of both dino and synth oil and is also the reason why you take oil to the Recycling Center and not the trash dump. So if oil itself doesn't ever degrade, why do we have to change it? The answer is twofold: additives and contamination. It will probably surprise you to learn that synthetic oil has all the same additives that dino oil has! The additives in oil DO break down, which is part of what necessitates oil changes. The other reason for regular oil changes is that with use, motor oil becomes contaminated (dirt, water, acids, etc). Using synthetic oil does not protect against either of these problems, which is why you CANNOT go further between oil changes when running a synthetic. You should still change your synthetic oil at the same intervals as you do with dino oil. Anyone want to guess how many claims Mobil 1 had to pay to people that were going 25,000 miles between changes?

Myth #2 debunked

Synthetic oil causing oil leaks is another commonly spread myth. The truth of the matter is that if all your engine seals and gaskets are in good condition, synthetic oil will NOT leak in your engine. The myth started because on occasion, an engine will leak with synthetic oil, but not dino oil. The reason for this is that the smaller molecules of the synthetic are able to get past very small crevices, where the larger molecules of dino oil cannot. But this does not mean that the synthetic oil has caused the leak, it simply has "discovered" an infant leak, and regardless of what oil you are running, this infant leak will eventually grow to a size that will allow dino oil to occupy and pass also. Synthetic oil has not been shown to deteriorate engine seals or gaskets. It is not some evil solvent that will break down sealant, or anything like that. Like was said earlier, it is just a man-made base stock, that is uniform and smaller in molecule size than dino oil. Nothing more, nothing less.

ADVANTAGES OF RUNNING SYNTHETIC OIL in AIRCOOLED ENGINES
So if you are asking yourself "What's the point of running synthetic oil, if you can't change it less often?" Here's your answer in a nutshell.

Since synthetic oil has better heat transfer qualities than dino oil, your internal engine temperatures will be lower. Things like bearings, especially, will not operate at as high of a temperature as a result. The wider range of temperatures that synthetic oil can withstand is well suited for the air-cooled VW engine. With head temperatures normally between 300-350 degrees, synthetic will not breakdown while lubricating the valvetrain components at the heads. The better lubricating properties of synthetic in general will lead to a longer engine life as well. On average, when synthetic oil is run in an air-cooled VW engine, head temperatures stay the same, but engine oil temps reduce by anywhere from 10 to 15 degrees. This is in engines that have all the correct cooling tin in place, and are not suffering from overheating to begin with. Important note: Do not run synthetic to fix a hot running engine. Find the real reason it's running hot, and fix it!

Another benefit is that since synthetic oil is man-made, it can be tailored to suit a wider range of needs. Synthetic oil is now being made is such weights as 5w50, and 0w30, weights that are not possible to achieve with dino oils.

At Aircooled.Net we recommend that you run synthetic oils in all cases, with one exception: you should continue to run dino oil (and change it every 1k miles) if your car still has the stock oiling system.

In transmissions we can not praise synthetics enough; RUN IT, especially if you live somewhere that gets cold (under 30F/0C).

There is one thing I need to clarify though -- if you are not running an oil filter, there really is no point to using synthetic since your oil is going to become contaminated very quickly. Your engine will still benefit somewhat from it, but due to the higher cost of synthetic oil, the gain of running it before it becomes contaminated is negligible. Oil change intervals range from 1000-3000 miles in the VW engine with a strainer (not a filter). VWoM (Mexico) recommends 1k mile intervals on non-filtered engines; keep this in mind for your pride and joy! But on the flip side, the stock VW engine only takes 2.5 qts anyways, it's not going to break you if you do want to run synthetic!



Eric Allred, Aircooled.Net Guest Writer
Old Apr 29, 2008, 01:03 PM
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what's up family. gonna do my change over the weekend. can i confirm the oil-filter is a "g" size(in regards to socket size)?

I thought i remembered reading that it "possibly" could be G. i wanna get confirmation this is the correct size.

edit: also, through looking at some websites i can't seem to find "Letter" sizes for the oil-filter sockets. All measurements. Anyone know those numbers? Then i wouldn't have to worry about finding a "letter" sized socket.
unless im not looking in the right area. which is possible too

Last edited by Evolve247; Apr 29, 2008 at 04:09 PM.
Old Apr 30, 2008, 06:16 AM
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Just get what I believe is called a "strap-type" oil filter wrench. It has a loop that fits over the filter, and it tightens when you turn it. It is super easy to get at the filter, and it is easy to get the strap around the filter. After doing this once, from then on you hand-tighten the new filter. Nothing against the socket-type wrench, but you don't really need it.


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