Oil Change information/discussion
Aug 7, 2009, 02:35 AM
#77
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I had my first oil change (3000 mi)at the dealership . I am fast approaching 6000 miles, I want to convert to synthetic. Do I need to perform a flush or just drain the old oil and put synthetic?
Aug 7, 2009, 04:48 AM
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If i remember correctly, the only important part is the 5. The 20 or 10 has more to do with climate and temperature. I know my dad throws 10W30 in his car in the summer and changes over to 10W40 in the winter. The 40 is a little thicker for the colder temperatures. No real problem with using 5W10, and if anything happens the dealer is at fault so your covered anyways.
Aug 17, 2009, 05:38 PM
#79
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You have things backwards: you want a heavier weight in the summer and a lighter weight in the winter. Oil becomes less viscous when it heats up, thus the thicker 40 weight oil would be better in the summer as the heat makes it less viscous.
Porsche recommends 0W-40 for my Boxster, but I know a number of people who use 15W-50 in the summer, especially if they track their cars. The higher-viscosity oil presumably gives better protection under conditions when the engine gets hotter than normal.
Porsche recommends 0W-40 for my Boxster, but I know a number of people who use 15W-50 in the summer, especially if they track their cars. The higher-viscosity oil presumably gives better protection under conditions when the engine gets hotter than normal.
Sep 10, 2009, 04:17 AM
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You have things backwards: you want a heavier weight in the summer and a lighter weight in the winter. Oil becomes less viscous when it heats up, thus the thicker 40 weight oil would be better in the summer as the heat makes it less viscous.
Porsche recommends 0W-40 for my Boxster, but I know a number of people who use 15W-50 in the summer, especially if they track their cars. The higher-viscosity oil presumably gives better protection under conditions when the engine gets hotter than normal.
Porsche recommends 0W-40 for my Boxster, but I know a number of people who use 15W-50 in the summer, especially if they track their cars. The higher-viscosity oil presumably gives better protection under conditions when the engine gets hotter than normal.
Sep 11, 2009, 01:50 PM
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I do my own on the 09 gts. 15-20 minutes tops. With the right tools you don't even have to jack the car up the way mitsu has oriented the oil filter. If you do it right, you can do it in your driveway w/o even spilling a drop of oil. much easier than a honda crv. the oil filter is difficult to get too on that car.
Sep 13, 2009, 12:33 PM
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Wow I cringed so much in reading this thread I felt compelled to join up and share some things with you guys.
First off, I would highly recommend replacing the drain plug gasket EVERY time you change the oil. Some people say it's unnecessary but you have no idea how many cars I see come into the shop leaking from the drain plug because they were too cheap to replace a 99 cent gasket on their expensive synthetic oil change...blows my mind every time. Additionally, I doubt most of you guys doing the oil change in your driveway use a torque wrench, so you could be over tightening the drain plug which causes a greater chance of splitting the gasket and will over more oil changes, damage the threads on the plug and possibly the pan threads as well.
Also one more note. Most domestic vehicle drain plugs have a rubber gasket attached to the head of the plug. These are the only gaskets you do NOT have to replace unless they are in bad condition. ANY import vehicle will pretty much always have a metal/aluminum/teflon gasket which should be changed every oil change. The only one I can think of off hand that doesn't, is the new Mazda 6's which use a Ford drain plug with the rubber gasket.
Information on the gasket to use with your Lancers: The drain plug is 17mm and takes a 14mm crushable gasket. I've seen some people use a 14mm copper gasket which can also work fine. The specific torque for the crushable gasket is 26ft/lbs. If you do end up using the copper gasket, the torque should be 22ft/lbs.
Oil filters: I only know the Fram numbers for these, which is a 7317 and I believe the newer Evo's use a 6607. When installing your oil filter, always put a small bead of oil on the rubber gasket. This makes a better seal and will also make for an easier time taking it off again when you change it.
Oil type: The regular Lancers take 5w20 weight oil, mainly because it's lighter weight allows for better fuel efficiency. The ralliart and evo both recommend 5w30 which is a bit heavier, most likely due to the turbo's.
Hopefully this will be helpful to some of you.
First off, I would highly recommend replacing the drain plug gasket EVERY time you change the oil. Some people say it's unnecessary but you have no idea how many cars I see come into the shop leaking from the drain plug because they were too cheap to replace a 99 cent gasket on their expensive synthetic oil change...blows my mind every time. Additionally, I doubt most of you guys doing the oil change in your driveway use a torque wrench, so you could be over tightening the drain plug which causes a greater chance of splitting the gasket and will over more oil changes, damage the threads on the plug and possibly the pan threads as well.
Also one more note. Most domestic vehicle drain plugs have a rubber gasket attached to the head of the plug. These are the only gaskets you do NOT have to replace unless they are in bad condition. ANY import vehicle will pretty much always have a metal/aluminum/teflon gasket which should be changed every oil change. The only one I can think of off hand that doesn't, is the new Mazda 6's which use a Ford drain plug with the rubber gasket.
Information on the gasket to use with your Lancers: The drain plug is 17mm and takes a 14mm crushable gasket. I've seen some people use a 14mm copper gasket which can also work fine. The specific torque for the crushable gasket is 26ft/lbs. If you do end up using the copper gasket, the torque should be 22ft/lbs.
Oil filters: I only know the Fram numbers for these, which is a 7317 and I believe the newer Evo's use a 6607. When installing your oil filter, always put a small bead of oil on the rubber gasket. This makes a better seal and will also make for an easier time taking it off again when you change it.
Oil type: The regular Lancers take 5w20 weight oil, mainly because it's lighter weight allows for better fuel efficiency. The ralliart and evo both recommend 5w30 which is a bit heavier, most likely due to the turbo's.
Hopefully this will be helpful to some of you.
Sep 13, 2009, 01:02 PM
#85
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Wow I cringed so much in reading this thread I felt compelled to join up and share some things with you guys.
First off, I would highly recommend replacing the drain plug gasket EVERY time you change the oil. Some people say it's unnecessary but you have no idea how many cars I see come into the shop leaking from the drain plug because they were too cheap to replace a 99 cent gasket on their expensive synthetic oil change...blows my mind every time. Additionally, I doubt most of you guys doing the oil change in your driveway use a torque wrench, so you could be over tightening the drain plug which causes a greater chance of splitting the gasket and will over more oil changes, damage the threads on the plug and possibly the pan threads as well.
Also one more note. Most domestic vehicle drain plugs have a rubber gasket attached to the head of the plug. These are the only gaskets you do NOT have to replace unless they are in bad condition. ANY import vehicle will pretty much always have a metal/aluminum/teflon gasket which should be changed every oil change. The only one I can think of off hand that doesn't, is the new Mazda 6's which use a Ford drain plug with the rubber gasket.
Information on the gasket to use with your Lancers: The drain plug is 17mm and takes a 14mm crushable gasket. I've seen some people use a 14mm copper gasket which can also work fine. The specific torque for the crushable gasket is 26ft/lbs. If you do end up using the copper gasket, the torque should be 22ft/lbs.
Oil filters: I only know the Fram numbers for these, which is a 7317 and I believe the newer Evo's use a 6607. When installing your oil filter, always put a small bead of oil on the rubber gasket. This makes a better seal and will also make for an easier time taking it off again when you change it.
Oil type: The regular Lancers take 5w20 weight oil, mainly because it's lighter weight allows for better fuel efficiency. The ralliart and evo both recommend 5w30 which is a bit heavier, most likely due to the turbo's.
Hopefully this will be helpful to some of you.
First off, I would highly recommend replacing the drain plug gasket EVERY time you change the oil. Some people say it's unnecessary but you have no idea how many cars I see come into the shop leaking from the drain plug because they were too cheap to replace a 99 cent gasket on their expensive synthetic oil change...blows my mind every time. Additionally, I doubt most of you guys doing the oil change in your driveway use a torque wrench, so you could be over tightening the drain plug which causes a greater chance of splitting the gasket and will over more oil changes, damage the threads on the plug and possibly the pan threads as well.
Also one more note. Most domestic vehicle drain plugs have a rubber gasket attached to the head of the plug. These are the only gaskets you do NOT have to replace unless they are in bad condition. ANY import vehicle will pretty much always have a metal/aluminum/teflon gasket which should be changed every oil change. The only one I can think of off hand that doesn't, is the new Mazda 6's which use a Ford drain plug with the rubber gasket.
Information on the gasket to use with your Lancers: The drain plug is 17mm and takes a 14mm crushable gasket. I've seen some people use a 14mm copper gasket which can also work fine. The specific torque for the crushable gasket is 26ft/lbs. If you do end up using the copper gasket, the torque should be 22ft/lbs.
Oil filters: I only know the Fram numbers for these, which is a 7317 and I believe the newer Evo's use a 6607. When installing your oil filter, always put a small bead of oil on the rubber gasket. This makes a better seal and will also make for an easier time taking it off again when you change it.
Oil type: The regular Lancers take 5w20 weight oil, mainly because it's lighter weight allows for better fuel efficiency. The ralliart and evo both recommend 5w30 which is a bit heavier, most likely due to the turbo's.
Hopefully this will be helpful to some of you.
Sep 13, 2009, 01:11 PM
#86
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I'm not 100% sure on that. I know mine did but either way, in my opinion, there should be one on there to create a proper seal. Even a reused gasket would be better than having none at all. I'm not saying you're going have a leak if you don't use one or don't change it but the chances are going to be higher. Again, I'm just speaking from my own experiences being in the industry.
Sep 14, 2009, 08:17 PM
#88
The 08 lancer doesn't come with a drain plug gasket. I've changed the oil on two (A GTS and ES) and neither had a gasket, purchased new from different dealerships)
I would recommend getting one---to prevent future leaks. but i've never had a complaint of a leak yet (though, only time will tell)
also, yes, get a torque wrench.
I run my lancer with 5w20 (engine spec), siince my first oil change, and it's always run great. Wallmart sells mobile1 synthetic for like 22 dollars per 4.75 liters.
grab a 15 dollar filter. and you've changed your own oil, will good synthetic oil, for under 40 bucks.
I don't know about the places you guys have gone to, but Valvoline, and a couple local places (Jiffy lube etc)---ask for roughly 90 bucks for an oil change using good perfomance synthetic.
i say "screw that"
I would recommend getting one---to prevent future leaks. but i've never had a complaint of a leak yet (though, only time will tell)
also, yes, get a torque wrench.
I run my lancer with 5w20 (engine spec), siince my first oil change, and it's always run great. Wallmart sells mobile1 synthetic for like 22 dollars per 4.75 liters.
grab a 15 dollar filter. and you've changed your own oil, will good synthetic oil, for under 40 bucks.
I don't know about the places you guys have gone to, but Valvoline, and a couple local places (Jiffy lube etc)---ask for roughly 90 bucks for an oil change using good perfomance synthetic.
i say "screw that"
Sep 15, 2009, 04:27 AM
#89
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I've been changing oil on my car since the beginning and on my dads cars. I dont think I've ever used a torque wrench for it, i always just go snug with a wrench on the drain plug and hand (and i mean hand only on the filter). I've never seen any leaks from our cars.
Sep 15, 2009, 06:23 AM
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I've been changing oil on my car since the beginning and on my dads cars. I dont think I've ever used a torque wrench for it, i always just go snug with a wrench on the drain plug and hand (and i mean hand only on the filter). I've never seen any leaks from our cars.
Same here. I couldnt even begin to tell you what a torque wrench looks like I never used one although Im from the country(Southeast Louisiana) and we judge everything by feel.