Alchemist

iTrader: (23)

Well, I hope this is in the right place.

First, I think you can get this done without spilling coolant. Spilling coolant is *****!!! By jacking up the car and securing on jackstands, you can get to the underside of the manifold, which means you can get to the 3 bolts that are a pain in the ***, and you wouldn't need to remove the big coolant hose.

Quick tio, I use tape on the ends of bolts so they can't fall out of the holes they start out in- you'll see what I mean when you take the TB off, or the FPR or anything that's held by bolts. a little tape on the end means you know which bolt lives where and no searching.

Here's what you'll need :
3" socket extension
8mm wrench (for that little sensor on top of the plenum chamber)
10mm socket
10mm wrench
12mm socket
12mm ratchet wrench
14mm socket
pliers to break hoses loose

About 4 hours (mine took longer because I did it the way it's been described elsewhere)

Where to begin?!
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=49423&stc=1

Start by removing your strut bar (if you have one, 14mm)
Then remove your MAS and airbox/SRI/CAI . . . . take a quick look and remember that there's a hose that feeds into the intake sleeve
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=49425&stc=1

Good start, now we can see the TB and what's connected to it. Not that there are 2 hoses on top of the TB, one with blue lines, one with yellow. It's pretty intuitive when you're reassembling, but try to remember which one goes where. loosen the bolts on the throttle cable tensioner, and remove the cable from the throttle. Remove the wiring harnesses and the hoses (small amount of coolant will leak, just use a shop towel to catch the drippings). The hose that's underneath the TB can be removes after the TB has been taken off of the front of the plenum chamber. If you wait until the last thing to do on this part, it makes getting at the hose clamp easier.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=49424&stc=1

Then go to the other end and remove the hoses from the plenum chamber. Remember which hose goes where.
FPR hose goes here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=49426&stc=1

The hose from the PCV valve goes here (where my finger points)
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=49427&stc=1

Uh oh, out of pics in this post. Next up....

Alchemist

iTrader: (23)

so after you've removed those hoses, I recommend removing the panel with the hoses and harnesses in the middle. I didn't take this panel off until my hands werre all chewed up, I'll save you that misery. You might as well take the harnesses off of the fuel injectors while you're at it. Also, remove the wire loom from all 3 mounting points, 2 brackets on top and there's a weird attachment point on the engine lift bracket- use the pliers to squeeze the end and pull the loom off of the engine bracket. you'll also want to remove the right-most coil pack....

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=49428&stc=1

remove the FPR and the return hose on the other end. If you open your gas cap you'll release some pressure and you'll just get a little leak. The FPR is 10mm and I think the return hose is 12mm; this is where the extension comes in handy. A little fuel will come out, but you just need a shop towel to catch it.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=49429&stc=1

now, remove the fuel rail DO NOT LOSE THE SPACERS!!!! and remove the fuel return line (the metal tube that's just underneath the fuel rail)
Look at all the room!!
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=49430&stc=1

Now take off the bracket with the engine lift point on it. There are 2 12mm bolts.
It's good to have a spare engine to play with The ratchet with the 12mm socket fits right in this space and makes it a breeze to get this thing off. Take the other bolt off, too.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=49431&stc=1

Now the fun begins! I think we have all of the hoses and wires off, so lets start taking the bolts off. I started on the left side (as you face the engine bay) and used the 12mm to take that upper bolt off. That's the easy one. Then I went to the right side. There's a bolt under the fat hose that you can get to here. You may need to use the ratchet wrench but this one is also fairly easy, and it's the one I missed, causing quite the headache for about an hour while I tried everything I culd think of. Here's a "map" of the bolts for you.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=49435&stc=1

Alchemist

iTrader: (23)

Here's a look at the IM when all the bolts are off. The "bolt from Hell" is the one with the arrow. Look to the left and you'll see the bolt that I just had you take off. Now you're thinking "Hmmmm... those three nuts on top seem easy enough to remove" But save those for last.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=49436&stc=1

Now get under the car. Use the 14mm socket to remove the bolts that are attached to that black bracket that holds the IM in place, there are 4 of them. Now use your 12mm wrench (ratchet or otherwise) and start working on those bolts! I don't have a pic, but you'll be able to see them from under the car. I have fairly large arms- blacksmithing and chopping wood everynight will do that- and I managed to get up there to reinstall the bolts. You can too!!!! Yes, you'll be flying blind on the bolt from hell, but you can't see it if you take the coolant line out, either, and this way is a LOT less messy. I hate coolant.

Now go back up top and remove the 3 nuts.
Let's count: left top, right top, right lower, bolt from hell, other 3 bolts and 3 nuts. Yep, that's all 10
The IM should pretty much come right off. It might need some persuasion, but it will come off. Be careful not to mangle the thin metal gasket that's in there!

Here's what the stock IM looks like compared to my ported IM:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=49439&stc=1

You can see the buildup on the stock IM, this is obviously just getting in the way, so I ported it off.

Install is the reverse of removal and is MUCH quicker (you've seen where the bolts are once and how to get at them, this is the easy part!) Get all of the hoses and wires reattached. Use the pics to guide you back to the beginning. Don't forget to reinstall your coilpack and the MAS. I forgot to reinstall my strut brace (damn I'm tired!!) and lost one of the nuts. Now I have some ghetto *** Lowe's nuts on the strut towers

My car started right up once the fuel rail filled. It's not like strapping on a turbo, but there's a noticeable difference above 3K RPM.

Enjoy!!!

Alchemist

iTrader: (23)

forgot to mention that I also cleaned up the plenum chamber some. Mostly ground away the buildup and the casting inclusions.

Blacksheepdj

iTrader: (88)

Discuss it here.