spyghost

First and foremost, how do you check the clutch secondary/slave cylinder for leaks?
- First possible indication is hard shifting when engine is running either at stationary or moving
- Second is of course physical evidence of leak on the rubber boot.

Minor leaks tend to show only when the rubber boot is partially opened on the side of the cylinder. Worse leaks don't even need opening of the rubber boot and is evident by just touching the underside. If you sensed this kind of symptoms, time to buy a clutch secondary/slave cylinder repair kit from mitsu. It doesn't cost too much. I bought it for less than $10 from the dealer. Also get yourself high temp grease and DOT3 brake fluid - lots of it.

This is the rebuild diagram, but I am not going to completely remove the slave cylinder. I'll do in within the bay.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...ch/diagram.jpg

My indications were hard shifting and physical evidence of leak when the rubber boot is opened.

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i.../eIMG_1973.jpg

The blue blob between the push rod and the shift fork is just high temp grease.

Ok here is the list of materials and tools needed:
- Clutch secondary/slave cylinder repair kit - get yourself the original mitsu and spare yourself the extra labor from getting the non-original parts
- 12 mm socket or 12mm box wrench - 1/2" drive will do but its better to have 3/8" drive because the socket/ratchet will hit the fan shroud for 1/2." I don't have 3/8" so I opted to use the box wrench
- 10 mm box wrench for bleeding. This is the only thing I got, but if you have a 10mm flare wrench the better.
- Torque wrench
- lots of rags (preferably white) and old toothbrush
- cotton buds
- biggest syringe available (optional)
- DOT3 brake fluid - get a liter
- High temp grease
- A friend of companion for bleeding
- Eye protection
- Catch container for bleeding - I just use plain party cups for this.

As an added bonus, I'll also show how to replace your fluid and clean the reservoir. Chances are, you already have a black fluid when you have leaks since rubber tends to dissolve within the enclosed system.

NOTES
- It is mandatory to repack the shift fork connection to the pushrod with high temp grease when disassembled.
- Always wear eye protection.
- Brake fluid is very corrosive. Protect your painted surfaces. When brake fluid comes into contact, wipe out the surface and flush with water ASAP!
- NEVER use any other fluid (water, brake cleaner, carb cleaner, alcohol etc...) to clean the system. ALWAYS use fresh brake fluid - nothing else!

Let's begin:
1 - Remove the 2 12mm bolts below where the cylinder attaches itself to the tranny and set it aside for reuse.
2 - Pull the assembly out of the original position being careful no the bend the clutch piping
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i.../eIMG_1969.jpg
3 - Place a cover below the part where the assembly is to catch some leaking fluid.
4 - Pull the rubber boot starting from the end of the cylinder. If you do have leaks, its possible to have fluid gushing out.
5 - Separate the push rod from the old rubber boot
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i.../eIMG_1970.jpg
6 - Carefully pull the piston, piston cup and the conical spring. Don't get the spring bent or damaged or else you clutch will remain disengaged forever.
7 - Separate the spring from the piston. It is just clipped on the protruded end of the piston.
8 - Throw away the old rubber boot, piston and piston cup. Use everthing in the kit. Here is the reason why I got a the leak:
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i.../eIMG_1973.jpg
9 - Gently clean the pushrod and the spring with new brake fluid. A toothbrush may help here. Also clean the inside of the cylinder with a clean rag and brake fluid.
10 - Using the new piston/piston cup, clip the small end of conical spring to the protruding end of the piston. Wet this with a fresh brake fluid from the bottle. Wet the inside of the cylinder with brake fluid.
11 - Push the piston back to the cylinder conical spring first. Extra effor may be needed to slightly compress the piston cup.
12 - Insert the push rod to the new rubber boot. Take note of the notch on one end. This serves as a sort of lock for the small end of the boot.
13 - Pack the shift fork with grease. Add a little more on the end of the push rod.
14 - Insert the pushrod to the release fork and bolt in the cylinder assembly. If you do have a torque wrench or when space permits, torque the 12 mm bolts to 19 Nm or 14 ft. lbs.

Bleeding Preparation/Cleaning:
1 - I did it the old fashioned way. I have my brother in law press and depress the clutch pedal, while I stayed outside to open/close the bleeder.
2 - Open your clutch reservoir and remove the old fluid. There are two approaches. One is to use a syringe and suck out the old fluid. Next is to use a clean absorbent cloth and have the fluid out of the reservoir.
3 - Wipe out the insde with a clean cloth dabbed in fresh brake fluid. If you happen to see dirt or grime on the small portions of the cylinder, use dry cotton buds to get the black goop out. Also clean the reservoir cap.
4 - When everthing is clean, top up the reservoir. You can exceed the MAX line at this time.
5 - When all is set, remove the cap and insert your 10mm socket or 10mm flare wrench (prefered).
6 - Loosen the bleeder and return it back to a tightened state. Take note: tightened NOT torqued.
7 - Have a catch placed near the bleeder.

Iterative Bleeding Process:
1 - Press pedal down to the floor.
2 - Open bleeder.
3 - Close bleeder.
4 - Depress pedal fully.
5 - When reservoir is down to MIN, refill.
6 - Repeat to step 1 untill brake fluid comes out clean with high pressure squirts.
7 - Torque up the bleeder to 11Nm or 8 ft. lbs. to prevent leaks and thread damage.

It took use more than an hour to fully clean/bleed the system because I had a squid like fluid plus I rushed to the nearest auto supply to purchase a liter of fluid. I just bought a quarter of a liter prior to the activity. That's why I mentioned have plenty of fluid. It's cheap anyway.

For push type of clutch release cylinders, I found it a time saver to push back the release fork towards the secondary cylinder and holding it for around 3 seconds and watch the reservoir bubble out the excess air inside. I did this 5 times. This also helps push the conical spring to its proper seat inside the cylinder.

Chances are you also have dirt/grime sticking outside the body of the reservoir and cap which cannot be removed with soap and water by scrubbing. Remember the last clean squirts you got during bleeding? Don't discard it yet, get a clean rag and dab it in. Use this to wipe out the master cylinder area and have your handy toothbrush scrub the dirt and grime out. When you are satisfied with the cleanliness, flush it out with water and wipe it off.

Here are final pics. I have taken much pics in the assembly process since I had my hands really dirty and I'm really sorry for that.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i.../eIMG_1974.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i.../eIMG_1976.jpg

slatermvp

iTrader: (13)

Sorry to bring this back up from the dead but does anyone have the pics that work for this or is there another DIY with working pics?

eusgen

iTrader: (5)

What he^ said.

zulu989

iTrader: (8)

same here ^^

naniekso

iTrader: (2)

ditto