spyghost

Functional fluids need draining and this includes the power steering system. My car requires an atf dexron ii fluid.

If you opt to use synthetic atf, those which I have known to work are redline d4atf, rp max atf, and mobil1 synthetic atf. nevertheless, as long as its atf dexron ii compatible, it will definitely work.

Here is the target part of the ps system http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i.../sIMG_2115.jpg. It contains .9L of fluid (atf or psf)

The tools and materials used for this activity are:
- Pliers
- vinyl hose approx 2m
- empty container approx 1L
- jack stands
- something to lift the car (scissor jack, croc jac, whatever)
- syringe enough to get inside the reservoir

Notes:
- ATF/PSF can make belts squeak - you know what to do
- ATF/PSF is corrosive
- ATF/PSF foams no matter what
- Dump all old atf in the empty container

Procedure:
- Jack up the car enough for the wheels to turn freely on air. Use jack stands. I don't recommend doing this with the tires on the ground, unless you'll be changing them after this.
- Remove htw. http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i.../sIMG_2123.jpg
- Using a syringe, suck out all fluid that you can from the reservoir. Remove the white plastic fiter. Push your index finger inside and twist it a bit. It'll come off easily. Clean this with soapy water and rinse thoroughly (have it dried under the sun or overnight indoors). http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i.../sIMG_2120.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i.../sIMG_2119.jpg
* Don't be a jackass like me... I dropped the other half of my syringe inside the reservoir so I ended up disconnecting the reservoir from the engine bay. Nevertheless, it proved to be better since I was able to drain completely the reservoir with ease.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i.../sIMG_2121.jpg
- Disconnect the return line (smaller hose connected to the reservoir and connect it to a vinyl hose to redirect expelling fluid to the container i mentioned above
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i.../sIMG_2122.jpg
- When everthings set accordingly, intermittently crank the engine while turning the steering wheel left-right lock and vice versa until all fluid is out. If you have a perfect system, you will amost fill up a 1l container.
- Connect the return pipe back to its original setup. You may not put back the filter yet since you got to have this really dry, not to mention that you have a clean atf/psf to be introduced to the system.
- Put atf/psf on the reservoir until the max line and intermittently crank the engine while turning left-right lock vice versa.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i.../sIMG_2125.jpg
* In my first dump, I approximately placed around 500 ml of the atf.
* After the initial bleeding, it went down approx half way the reservoir.
* The last dump that I had was around 300 ml.
* I don't have a vid of the bleeding, but in essense here is how it goes... When steering, the speed of rotation is simply as if you are drivng around town. "While steering" crank your engine as if you are doing a compression test, then stop! Begin cranking again "after" the oil pressure icon lights up again - you'll end up with a broken starter pinion or flywheel ring gear if you don't follow this!
* I made it this way... from center steering, lock left - lock right (4 times) while intermittent cranking, stop, check, 5 mins, repeat
- When you have dumped all atf (approx 0.9 qts), continue the bleeding process (the previous task) until no bubbles are seen coming out. Everytime you stop to check and you see little bubbles, stop for about 5 mins and let them pop out naturally to avoid foaming. I cycled the bleeding process for about 5 times.
- If no bubbles are forming, connect the htw and let the engine idle.
- Pull the throttle cable and see if the fluid in the resevoir rises. If it rises, there's still air - continue bleeding. If it does not change, you have bled it perfectly.
- Top up the reservoir to max line and test drive.

I already had a somehow weak battery and I don't want to end up with a dead one. So, when there were only a few bubbles left, I made a setup such as
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i.../sIMG_2126.jpg
It is simply a layer of ordinary tissue paper with scotch tape on the reservoir body. I drove around the village slowly (avoiding humps, bumps, and inclines) for 30 minutes taking note of the full left and right steering locks at corners. The tissue will simply let reservoir breathe out the little bubbles.
After the ride, I remove the tissue cover and revved the engine. At this point, there shouldn't be any form of bubbling nor a sudden rise in the fluid level when revving. If that seems to be case, then you are done.
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OZ_kidd

to insert the images properly, use the "img" link in each pic. cut and paste that link to the post. your post will come up clear, and we dont have to click the link.

noticed that your intake is different. i see that you are in the philippines. i use to live there too. thanks for the post.

Jeffs2006EVOIX

on my car I just siphon out the fluid in the resivour every other oil change. This keeps the fluid always clean and is less work in the long haul. Since you can't siphon out all the fluid at one time, you do not need to worry about air bubbles. I have done this procedure on my Toyota Corolla with over 300K on it and have had no PS issues. Just have to remember to do it.

supremellama

iTrader: (3)

I should do this for all my fluids.
Doesn't hurt to spend $20 for all those fluids vs. replacing a part down the road.