****How To: Install your own Limited Slip****
Apr 12, 2013, 12:43 PM
#1
****How To: Install your own Limited Slip****
*****WARNING*****
Use this how-to at your own risk. I cannot be held responsible for any errors in the disassembly/reassembly of your transmission. If you’re not mechanically inclined do not attempt this without at minimum another experienced person with you.
Use this how-to at your own risk. I cannot be held responsible for any errors in the disassembly/reassembly of your transmission. If you’re not mechanically inclined do not attempt this without at minimum another experienced person with you.
Alright guys I thought I would do a write up about how to install an LSD into your 02-03 (possibly other years this may work for too) USDM Manual Transmission Lancer ES, LS, OZ (F5M42). This write up will explain the steps necessary to disassemble and reassemble your manual transmission. I will be installing a Phantom Grip 903- XTREME Limited Slip Insert. Transmission removal will be outside of the scope of this how-to. My procedure will begin with the transmission already out and drained.
Tools Needed for this Job:
Torque Wrench (Preferably a Ft-Ibs AND In-Ibs wrench)
10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, T50 Torx sockets and/or wrenches
Ratchet
Air Tools are recommended but you can do it without them
Bench Vise is Highly recommended
Pry Tool
Punch
Black RTV Gasket Sealer
Here is the transmission I will be using for the write up.
The first thing you want to do is remove the slave/TOB inside the bell housing here
After that is removed notice there are two 14mm bolts towards the top here on the inside of the housing. These also must be removed, they are 2 bolts of the set of bolts that hold the 2 halves of the transmission case together. Removing them now will save you when you forget to later (like I did the first time I pulled it apart lol) and have the transmission up on end.
Once that’s done your next step is to remove the shift housing. There are the 4 obvious 12mm bolts located here
Then there is a not so obvious 14mm on the side here that must be removed also.
As you pull it out you may have to move the levers around a little to keep from catching on the shifting forks inside the transmission.
You now should have the shift housing out yay for you!!
Next you want to tackle this plate here with the six 10mm bolts.
This covers the reverse idler gear that must be removed before the case can come off
This bolt right here on the side holds the idler gear in place. Remove it. This requires a T50 Torx bit
You now can remove the reverse idler gear
These 3 bolts are located directly underneath where the rear transmission mount bolts to, each contain a spring loaded ball bearing self-contained in the bolt, you know when you slip the car into gear how it kinda slips into place? That’s due to the ball bearing in these bolts slipping into one of the grooves in the shift rod. Don’t worry the spring is loaded inside the bolt so you can remove all 3 without worry.
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Ok once those are off you need to set the transmission upright on its bell housing if you haven’t already.
Now get ready to remove a lot of bolts. See all these bolts around the outside perimeter? Pull them all out, I’m not sure the exact number but there should be around 13-16 in total. They are all the same size so don’t worry if you get the order confused with reinstallation.
Alright DO NOT attempt to separate the tranny yet we still have one more step. See this plug here on top? It covers a snap ring that holds the rear bearing of the output shaft in place. This plug must be destroyed to remove it, If you attempt to pry it up from the sides you will almost certainly damage the sealing surface of the casing and create a leak, so get another from the mitsu dealer (like $5). Take a flat head screwdriver and punch a hole right through the center then pry it up carefully but put some effort into it.
Ok now that the plug is off you want to expand that snap ring, you will notice the Output shaft will fall slightly under its own weight when it does release.
Congratulations you are now ready to pull the case off. There are 3 pry points like the one shown here that you will need to utilize in order to separate the case.
Gently but forcefully pry on these pry points evenly to separate the casing. Here is what you will find once it is off
Alright congrats that wasn’t so bad now was it? Now time for the real fun to begin . Next we will remove the shifting forks. The metal rods you see sticking up are connected to those “C” brackets that go around the input/output shafts. These make up the shifting forks. There is a spring pin in each rod that must be forced out with a punch like the one shown here so you can move the rods independently of the brackets
This one is 1/8”, after I used it I would recommend getting one a little bit bigger as this size can slip inside the pin expanding it while you are trying to remove it which is counterproductive. If you have a bench grinder you can even grind down a spare bolt to fit inside. Just take your punch and a hammer and tap it out. You don’t have to slam it just moderate blows over and over and it will come out slowly, you don’t want to risk damage to your gears. Be careful as you get close to the pin coming out. You should be able to pull it out by hand before its all the way out to minimize your risk of it flying across the floor and lost in the abyss lol.
Last edited by 03lances; Apr 12, 2013 at 01:01 PM.
Apr 12, 2013, 12:44 PM
#2
Once all three spring pins are removed gently slide the single rod (on the left in the above pic) up out of its respective spot in the case and then pull the rod/bracket assembly out and away from the shaft. Then do the same with the two others as a pair. Once removed you should be looking at this:
Ok you are getting real close now. Look at the bottom of the input shaft here
These three 12mm bolts secure a bracket that holds the Input shaft bearing in place. Remove them and the bracket
You now can remove the input/output shaft as an assembly. Pull up and wiggle it a little to unseat the shafts and lift them out. Once those are out the Differential will lift right out as well
Ok then you now have the differential and all the guts out of your transmission case. Now is a good time to clean it up and make it look purdy
. Also this is a good time to inspect all the parts and change any seals (Input shaft seal, axle seals) if you had planned on it or noticed leaks upon inspection. There is a small plate inside a crevice on the inside of the housing with 2 round magnets on it I recommend pulling out and cleaning them off. Just don’t forget to put them back in.
Now regardless of whether or not you are using a limited slip insert or replacing your differential with an lsd you will need to pull off your final drive gear that’s bolted to your differential, these are 19mm. If you are replacing your differential then you will need to bolt the final drive onto the replacement lsd. If you are using an LS insert then you must remove the gear to access the locking pin for the pinion shaft. Make sure you match mark your differential and your gear so when you bolt it back up you can be sure it is matched back up.
(Due to the differences in full LSD drop-ins I will not cover bearing preloads or removal/installation of differential bearing, please consult the documentation you received with your unit in regards to bearing preloads if any)
Once the gear is off you can take your punch you used earlier for the spring pins to remove the locking pin. This hole is tapered so its one way in and one way out. Make sure you insert the punch in this hole here to force the pin out the other side. Do not attempt it the other way around you will just mushroom the end of the pin and possibly damage parts.
Once its removed you can slide out the pinion shaft.
Before you insert your limited slip you will want to lock at least one side gear by putting the pinion shaft back in just far enough to hold the gear otherwise they like to slide around on you which will make installing the unit impossible. Once you have it squarely aligned you will likely have to take a rubber mallet to gently tap it into your differential, make sure it in fact is squarely aligned as the side going in first will likely compress enough that the brackets and dowel will fall off on their own. It is not fun realizing you have to pull it out to adjust the alignment only to find you have to reinstall that braket to hold the unit compressed. The side gear not secured may slightly move out of alignment. That’s ok it’s easy to reposition once the unit is in there. Once you have the unit aligned and you can slide the pinion shaft through it you will need to reposition that other side gear in order to fully insert that pinion shaft . Be sure to align the hole in it so you can reinstall the locking pin.
Ok so get that locking pin back in there. It does not have to be flush with the surface but get it close so the drive gear will sit flush. Again make sure you install it on the drive gear side since this is the non-tapered end. Once that is back in DO NOT forget to take off the dowels/brackets that were holding the PG together before the install. You do not want to have to disassemble the transmission again when you realize you forgot this important step.
Next step the drive gear must go back on. You will need a bench vice for this step. The bolts must be torqued to 98 FT-lbs. I suggest using some wood or something in between to prevent damage as you torque the bolts back on. Make sure you re aligned the gear with the marks you made earlier
Double check your bearing race for the differential inside the transmission housing make sure it’s still secure and has not moved from its spot. Now drop that diff back into its home.
Grab your input and output shafts and combine them properly then set them back into the transmission case as one unit, you will probably have to wiggle a little to get the ISB to drop back into its spot in the case. Then take that C bracket that secures the ISB and bolt it back on. There are 3 12mm bolts torqued to 14 ft-Ibs.
Now we get to the fun part, The shift forks, I hope you put the spring pins in a safe place. This is pretty straight forward, Put the rod/fork assembly back in the reverse order you took them out. It’s a good idea to manually raise the shift rings on the shafts up to their highest level before installing to give you as much clearance as possible to slide the rods into their respective places in the case.
Once they are in position line up the hole on the rod to the hole on the fork and make sure it stays lined up. Take your hammer and tap the spring clips back in. There will be overhang on both sides when the spring pin is fully inserted
You are now ready to put the other half of the case back on. Double check your mating surfaces to be sure you removed all traces of the old gasket you do not want to pull the tranny back out when you find a leak there. You want to lay a 2mm thick bead of RTV around the entire thing. You can circle the bolt holes or just bead the inside edge of the bolt holes, your choice.
As you set the case back on, be careful not to smear the RTV with your fingers/knees etc. You may have to jimmy it around a little so everything finds its respective home inside the casing. You will also need to expand that snap ring on top in order to fully seat the case. The Output shaft will not come up fully, do not worry about that just be sure the snap ring does slide over it for now. There are guide pins to line up the 2 halves perfectly. I took my rubber mallet and tapped all around it a few times to fully seat it. Once fully seated the bolts are torqued to 33 Ft-Ibs, use a star pattern to ensure even pressure as you torque it on. You will have 2 of these left over that go on the inside of the transmission. Do Not tilt your transmission over to install these just leave them for now.
Next up the Reverse Idler gear, you may have to spin the output shaft a little if it wont fit right in. Once it is in place take your T50 Torx and tighten to 35 Ft-Ibs. Then spread an RTV bead on the casing where the cover goes and install the six 10mm bolts tightening them to 60 in-Ibs (5 Ft-Ibs).
Next take those 3 ball bearing bolts and put them back in, tighten to 24 Ft-Ibs.
Now we come to the Shift housing, remember these guys? They each have 3 positions
Look down into the hole that the housing goes into and make sure they are all lined up and in the middle position. Then slide the housing in and make sure everything lines up great and you can fully seat the assembly. Now pull it back out and line the case surface with RTV sealer and put it back in. Again make sure you line it all up and get a proper seat BEFORE adding RTV, it can be a pain to get it lined up right at first and you don’t wanna be fighting it when your RTV is curing. Tighten the 4 bolts to 14 Ft-Ibs and don’t forget the 14mm bolt on the side of the housing, tighten that one to 22 Ft-Ibs.
Now that your shifter rods are back in place use them to push the output shaft all the way up until the snap ring slides into the groove in the rear bearing. The snap ring will already be around the bearing so once you push the shaft up the bearing will slide in and lock on its own (pretty neat trick if I do say so myself) (shift the transmission to push it up). Now you can install the new plug, put some grease around the edges of the plug and the transmission case to ease installation then take your rubber mallet and tap it in evenly.
Congratulations your transmission is reassembled!!!\
Now leave it sitting just like it is overnight so the RTV can fully cure. If you try to tilt it on its side you run the risk of leftover oil mixing with your RTV causing it to not cure properly. Don’t forget to reinstall the slave/tob unit and the 2 leftover bolts on the inside of the bellhousing the following day.
Ok you are getting real close now. Look at the bottom of the input shaft here
These three 12mm bolts secure a bracket that holds the Input shaft bearing in place. Remove them and the bracket
You now can remove the input/output shaft as an assembly. Pull up and wiggle it a little to unseat the shafts and lift them out. Once those are out the Differential will lift right out as well
Ok then you now have the differential and all the guts out of your transmission case. Now is a good time to clean it up and make it look purdy
. Also this is a good time to inspect all the parts and change any seals (Input shaft seal, axle seals) if you had planned on it or noticed leaks upon inspection. There is a small plate inside a crevice on the inside of the housing with 2 round magnets on it I recommend pulling out and cleaning them off. Just don’t forget to put them back in. Now regardless of whether or not you are using a limited slip insert or replacing your differential with an lsd you will need to pull off your final drive gear that’s bolted to your differential, these are 19mm. If you are replacing your differential then you will need to bolt the final drive onto the replacement lsd. If you are using an LS insert then you must remove the gear to access the locking pin for the pinion shaft. Make sure you match mark your differential and your gear so when you bolt it back up you can be sure it is matched back up.
(Due to the differences in full LSD drop-ins I will not cover bearing preloads or removal/installation of differential bearing, please consult the documentation you received with your unit in regards to bearing preloads if any)
Once the gear is off you can take your punch you used earlier for the spring pins to remove the locking pin. This hole is tapered so its one way in and one way out. Make sure you insert the punch in this hole here to force the pin out the other side. Do not attempt it the other way around you will just mushroom the end of the pin and possibly damage parts.
Once its removed you can slide out the pinion shaft.
Before you insert your limited slip you will want to lock at least one side gear by putting the pinion shaft back in just far enough to hold the gear otherwise they like to slide around on you which will make installing the unit impossible. Once you have it squarely aligned you will likely have to take a rubber mallet to gently tap it into your differential, make sure it in fact is squarely aligned as the side going in first will likely compress enough that the brackets and dowel will fall off on their own. It is not fun realizing you have to pull it out to adjust the alignment only to find you have to reinstall that braket to hold the unit compressed. The side gear not secured may slightly move out of alignment. That’s ok it’s easy to reposition once the unit is in there. Once you have the unit aligned and you can slide the pinion shaft through it you will need to reposition that other side gear in order to fully insert that pinion shaft . Be sure to align the hole in it so you can reinstall the locking pin.
Ok so get that locking pin back in there. It does not have to be flush with the surface but get it close so the drive gear will sit flush. Again make sure you install it on the drive gear side since this is the non-tapered end. Once that is back in DO NOT forget to take off the dowels/brackets that were holding the PG together before the install. You do not want to have to disassemble the transmission again when you realize you forgot this important step.
Next step the drive gear must go back on. You will need a bench vice for this step. The bolts must be torqued to 98 FT-lbs. I suggest using some wood or something in between to prevent damage as you torque the bolts back on. Make sure you re aligned the gear with the marks you made earlier
Double check your bearing race for the differential inside the transmission housing make sure it’s still secure and has not moved from its spot. Now drop that diff back into its home.
Grab your input and output shafts and combine them properly then set them back into the transmission case as one unit, you will probably have to wiggle a little to get the ISB to drop back into its spot in the case. Then take that C bracket that secures the ISB and bolt it back on. There are 3 12mm bolts torqued to 14 ft-Ibs.
Now we get to the fun part, The shift forks, I hope you put the spring pins in a safe place. This is pretty straight forward, Put the rod/fork assembly back in the reverse order you took them out. It’s a good idea to manually raise the shift rings on the shafts up to their highest level before installing to give you as much clearance as possible to slide the rods into their respective places in the case.
Once they are in position line up the hole on the rod to the hole on the fork and make sure it stays lined up. Take your hammer and tap the spring clips back in. There will be overhang on both sides when the spring pin is fully inserted
You are now ready to put the other half of the case back on. Double check your mating surfaces to be sure you removed all traces of the old gasket you do not want to pull the tranny back out when you find a leak there. You want to lay a 2mm thick bead of RTV around the entire thing. You can circle the bolt holes or just bead the inside edge of the bolt holes, your choice.
As you set the case back on, be careful not to smear the RTV with your fingers/knees etc. You may have to jimmy it around a little so everything finds its respective home inside the casing. You will also need to expand that snap ring on top in order to fully seat the case. The Output shaft will not come up fully, do not worry about that just be sure the snap ring does slide over it for now. There are guide pins to line up the 2 halves perfectly. I took my rubber mallet and tapped all around it a few times to fully seat it. Once fully seated the bolts are torqued to 33 Ft-Ibs, use a star pattern to ensure even pressure as you torque it on. You will have 2 of these left over that go on the inside of the transmission. Do Not tilt your transmission over to install these just leave them for now.
Next up the Reverse Idler gear, you may have to spin the output shaft a little if it wont fit right in. Once it is in place take your T50 Torx and tighten to 35 Ft-Ibs. Then spread an RTV bead on the casing where the cover goes and install the six 10mm bolts tightening them to 60 in-Ibs (5 Ft-Ibs).
Next take those 3 ball bearing bolts and put them back in, tighten to 24 Ft-Ibs.
Now we come to the Shift housing, remember these guys? They each have 3 positions
Look down into the hole that the housing goes into and make sure they are all lined up and in the middle position. Then slide the housing in and make sure everything lines up great and you can fully seat the assembly. Now pull it back out and line the case surface with RTV sealer and put it back in. Again make sure you line it all up and get a proper seat BEFORE adding RTV, it can be a pain to get it lined up right at first and you don’t wanna be fighting it when your RTV is curing. Tighten the 4 bolts to 14 Ft-Ibs and don’t forget the 14mm bolt on the side of the housing, tighten that one to 22 Ft-Ibs.
Now that your shifter rods are back in place use them to push the output shaft all the way up until the snap ring slides into the groove in the rear bearing. The snap ring will already be around the bearing so once you push the shaft up the bearing will slide in and lock on its own (pretty neat trick if I do say so myself) (shift the transmission to push it up). Now you can install the new plug, put some grease around the edges of the plug and the transmission case to ease installation then take your rubber mallet and tap it in evenly.
Congratulations your transmission is reassembled!!!\
Now leave it sitting just like it is overnight so the RTV can fully cure. If you try to tilt it on its side you run the risk of leftover oil mixing with your RTV causing it to not cure properly. Don’t forget to reinstall the slave/tob unit and the 2 leftover bolts on the inside of the bellhousing the following day.
Last edited by 03lances; Apr 12, 2013 at 01:11 PM.
Apr 23, 2013, 06:43 AM
#6
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: RACINE,WI
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perfect write up... as a tech myself, I don't think I could have done it any better. So as a side note, tell me some pros and cons? And have you considered maybe doing another one and selling it?
Apr 23, 2013, 07:13 AM
#7
As far as doing another and selling it I never thought about it but the job is easy enough that if the situation arose I don't see why not.
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May 16, 2013, 12:46 PM
#10
You wouldn't happen to know how I might find the part number for the sealing cap would you?
I found ez9008b stamped on the back of it but my local Mitsu dealer doesn't have that in their system. They also couldn't find "sealing cap" in their system.
I found ez9008b stamped on the back of it but my local Mitsu dealer doesn't have that in their system. They also couldn't find "sealing cap" in their system.
May 16, 2013, 02:29 PM
#11
Well ISB is done, noise is gone, old bearing hardly spins and makes a little noise when spin by hand. We cleaned all my old lash adjuster and resealed the lower oil pan. When we first started the car up it idled like crap and thought it was something bad turns out we forgot to plug in one side of the spark plugs haha... did a little logging. seems like 7lbs is tuned about as best as we can. However can't explain it how ill have 3-4 pulls back to back with almost 0 knock then the next one 30+ counts. At this point car is idling the best it has since swap. Hopefully get it down to english racing in a couple weeks for SD Tune & fix the ic Pipes. I am really debating switching to e85 but I would have to store at least 10-20 gallons at home to make it do-able since no e85 stations within 30mins. Incase anyone has todo there ISB here are the parts needed thanks to corn dog.
2526A001: Bearing, M/T Input shaft
MD741818: Oil seal, M/T Input shaft
MD746157: Cap, M/T Case Seal
2526A001: Bearing, M/T Input shaft
MD741818: Oil seal, M/T Input shaft
MD746157: Cap, M/T Case Seal
Feb 2, 2016, 09:26 PM
#13
Sorry to bring up an old thread. I just want to say that this is a great write up and it should help a lot of evo owners. Thank you Sir. But I cant see the pics. Any chance the pics can be reloaded?
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