How to: Paint a bodykit
Jul 12, 2004, 03:24 PM
#1
How to: Paint a bodykit
Hey guys, as most of you know I have painted and installed my own bodykit. Most of you would like to do the same thing, so here we go...
Tools Needed:
- Large Air Compressor (10 gallons or larger, 5 is the bare minimum)
- Automotive grade paint gun (with a 1.6mm nozzle or larger)
- Power Drill (with both drill bits and screwdriver bits)
- Power Sander
- Imperial / Metric Socket set
- Phillips Screwdriver
- Flat Head Screwdriver
Materials Needed:
- Respirator mask with filters.
- Good set of goggles.
- Microfiber cloth
- Acetone
- Rubbing alcohol
- Lots of paper towel
- Paintgun Primer (High build)
- Glazing putty (To fill deeper holes)
- Paint for your car (Here are paint codes):
Thunder Gray Metallic A02
Coronado Sand Metallic A26
Satellite Silver Metallic A69
Rio Red Metallic R20
Nares Blue Pearl T38
Diamond White Pearl W13
Scotia White W83
Amethyst Black Pearl X42
Lightning Yellow Y01
* Note: Color Names will change from shop to shop or brand to brand, so rely more on the code rather than the name.
- Sandpaper (Grits: 240, 500/600, 1200, 2000)
- Clearcoat
- Reducer for paint
Instructions:
1) Clean out the area in which you will be painting your bodykit in. It is recommended if you can, to wet the floors so that the dust wont pick up when you start painting. Set up a table or some sort of framework for you to mount your kit on for painting (has to be sturdy so the kit doesnt fall).
2) Use the power sander with a 500 grit (dry) sand paper to sand down whatever imperfections you see in the surface of the kit. If there is something bad enough, us a 240 grit to get it smooth then 500 grit to get rid of the scratches.
3) Use the rubbing alcohol or whatever cleaning agent you have (as long as it doesnt have oils or any addatives in it) to clean the surface to be painted on the kit.
4) Once the kit is cleaned and prepped for the primer mix the primer with the activator and pour it into the gun. When mixing the primer just mix a small amount at a time so it doesnt thicken up too much in the gun and so that you dont mix more than you have to. Set the compressor to 45psi and start spraying very light coats of primer. Let that dry for 15 minutes or so.
5) Next go on with heavier coats of the primer to cover up the whole kit. If you see any imperfections go a lil heavier over it, but dont let the primer run. Dont worry if you do because that can always be sanded down. Let that dry for about 1-2 hours (high build primer takes a long time to dry).
6) Once the kit is primered it's time for some test fitting. Here are the bolts for the front bumper:
7) To remove the sideskirts there are 5 screws underneath the car and 2 snap tabs in the front wheel wells. The stock skirts should snap off (white pop tabs and some sticky tape). You dont need to fit those since that is done after painting.
8) to remove the rear bumper, there is 1 screw in the wheel well, remove the trunk carpeting (all pop tabs). 1 on each side near the wheel well and 4 in the back (stick ur head in the wheel well and look back at where ur body would be, ull see 4 bolts, u need a deep socket 10mm with a driver extension to reach those). Remove the tail lights and there's 1 bolt under each tail light. Remove the stock bumper and fit the rear bumper.
9) The kit is fit on and looks good and primered? Now drive it around for a day or so to make sure ur installation is secure.
10) After removing the bumpers from the car pull em back into ur painting area and sand em lightly to remove all the debris and imperfections in it. If needed use the glazing putty to fill in the deeper inperfections that wont sand out easy.
11) Once the kit is nice and smooth (sanded well with a 600 grit, wetsanded if a show car look is desired). It's time to clean off the primer dust and get ready for the paint. Use a lint free cloth or a microfiber cloth to take off all the dust from sanding. Do not use alcohol or acetone here as that will ruin the primer finish.
12) Once clean prepare the paint gun (insert a filter in the gravity tubing, and make sure it's clean). Then mix the paint with the proper amount of reducer. Once that is complete run the paint through a strainer and into the paint gun canister. The strainer catches anything that might have landed in the paint during mixing.
13) Start painting the kit! Set the compressor to 50 psi and use the same method as before, a light patchy layer for coverage. Then after 15 minutes go again with a medium covering coat. Then let that dry for 15 mins and go for a 3rd coat for full coverage. Do as many coats as you feel necessary. Wait till the overspray clears out and inspect the painted surface after each layer. Check for patchiness or paint that ran (dripped). Plan for the next layer (go heavier on the lighter areas and go light on the areas that is already covered good). Once you are satisfied (usually after 5-7 layers of paint) let the paint dry for a good hour or 2. If you make a mistake or anything lands in the paint, lightly sand it with a 1200 grit paper and apply another coat or 2 over it.
14) When the paint is dry fully inspect the bumper before moving on, because once the clearcoat hits, u have sealed the paint layer. Check for any needle sized pits or small imperfections. Paint is known to bring out ALL of the tiniest imperfections you cant even see in primer or on the bare kit.
14.5) *OPTIONAL STEP* If you are going for a TRUE show stopper finish this step is imperative. Colorsanding. Use a 1200 grit paper and wetsand the paint so that it is somewhat semi-glossy and 100% smooth. Do not sand too much otherwise you will eat through the paint all the way down to the primer. (If you decide to do this step, you should do more than 5-7 coats of paint. Try goin for 10-12 coats.)
Once you are satisfied with your paint job you will be facing the most critical part of the entire paint operation.... the clearcoat, *DUN DUN DUUNNNNNNNN*
15) Before beginning to clearcoat. Use a clean microfiber cloth or any lintless cloth to remove anything that might have settled on the surfaces to be clearcoated. Cover anything that you do not want clearcoat to settle on, including your body. Clearcoat is a PAIN IN THE @$$ to remove. Wear long sleeved clothing and wear a full face mask and latex gloves.
16) Mix the clearcoat with the activator and run that through a strainer into the gun's canister. Set the compressor to 45 psi and start shooting! Start with moderate coverage (dont try to make everything smooth. Clearcoat will start dripping VERY easily). The key to clearcoat is that you cannot go too thin and you cannot go too thick. If it's too thin it will have MAD orangepeel, if it's too thick it will run like crazy (drip thingies). This step cant be described too much, it's all based on judgement. Do a medium first coat and let that dry for about 30-45 minutes. For the next coat try to go for a heavier coverage but CAREFUL NOT TO OVERDO IT! Let that one dry for an hour or so then go back for a 3rd layer. The 3rd layer should be moderate coverage. There will still be orangepeel texture so dont worry about that. Let the clearcoat dry for 24-48 hours. If you made a mistake (let it run) just leave it to dry, there's nothing u can do while it's wet. Do not try to "even out" the drip by applying more because it will only make it worse.
17) Once the clearcoat is dry, inspect for imperfections. If it looks good to you then skip down to step 18, if not then follow step 17.5.
17.5) If the clearcoat has runs in it or looks patchy (went too light) then wetsand the area of problem with a 1200 grit or coarser (if needed) (if you're sanding a clearcoat dripping dont sand it too much other wise it will go down to the paint, which is VERY bad). Once you have wetsanded with 1200 or coarser grit wetsand with a 2000 grit to smoothen it out good. Clean up with a microfiber cloth or lintless paper. Reapply another 1 or 2 layers of clearcoat. and let that dry for 24-48 hours.
17.75) If you want a TRUE showcar finish you have to wetsand the kit with a 2000 or greater grit to get rid of 100% of the orangepeel. That will give it a very glossy very smooth finish. (If you plan to do this, you must apply more than 3 layers of clearcoat) After wetsanding use a buffing compound and a buffer to shine the kit up good for a beautiful glossy finish.
18) Once you are satisfied with your paint job test to see if the kit is dry (you can test if the clearcoat is ready to handle with ur finger. In an insconspicious area press ur index finger into the painted surface hard. If the clearcoat is dry, ur finger wouldnt have left an imprint (that you can feel). If it's wet then u will feel an imprint leftover from ur finger.)
19) Install the kit like you did before (the front and rear bumper). Then for the sideskirts apply 3M Heavy duty double sided tape to the mounting surface. Be sure to clean the surfaces you are applying the tape to (on the skirt and on the car). Apply the skirt to the car and adjust it and press it in so the tape holds it. Get 2 self tapping screws for each wheel well and drill em into the skirt and into the car. This step is best if you had a friend to help.
20) Sit back and admire your newly painted kit over a nice cool bud light (or a pepsi if ur underage).
My baby's battle scars
That's gonna be fixed when I paint my whole car black toward the end of summer
Tools Needed:
- Large Air Compressor (10 gallons or larger, 5 is the bare minimum)
- Automotive grade paint gun (with a 1.6mm nozzle or larger)
- Power Drill (with both drill bits and screwdriver bits)
- Power Sander
- Imperial / Metric Socket set
- Phillips Screwdriver
- Flat Head Screwdriver
Materials Needed:
- Respirator mask with filters.
- Good set of goggles.
- Microfiber cloth
- Acetone
- Rubbing alcohol
- Lots of paper towel
- Paintgun Primer (High build)
- Glazing putty (To fill deeper holes)
- Paint for your car (Here are paint codes):
Thunder Gray Metallic A02
Coronado Sand Metallic A26
Satellite Silver Metallic A69
Rio Red Metallic R20
Nares Blue Pearl T38
Diamond White Pearl W13
Scotia White W83
Amethyst Black Pearl X42
Lightning Yellow Y01
* Note: Color Names will change from shop to shop or brand to brand, so rely more on the code rather than the name.
- Sandpaper (Grits: 240, 500/600, 1200, 2000)
- Clearcoat
- Reducer for paint
Instructions:
1) Clean out the area in which you will be painting your bodykit in. It is recommended if you can, to wet the floors so that the dust wont pick up when you start painting. Set up a table or some sort of framework for you to mount your kit on for painting (has to be sturdy so the kit doesnt fall).
2) Use the power sander with a 500 grit (dry) sand paper to sand down whatever imperfections you see in the surface of the kit. If there is something bad enough, us a 240 grit to get it smooth then 500 grit to get rid of the scratches.
3) Use the rubbing alcohol or whatever cleaning agent you have (as long as it doesnt have oils or any addatives in it) to clean the surface to be painted on the kit.
4) Once the kit is cleaned and prepped for the primer mix the primer with the activator and pour it into the gun. When mixing the primer just mix a small amount at a time so it doesnt thicken up too much in the gun and so that you dont mix more than you have to. Set the compressor to 45psi and start spraying very light coats of primer. Let that dry for 15 minutes or so.
5) Next go on with heavier coats of the primer to cover up the whole kit. If you see any imperfections go a lil heavier over it, but dont let the primer run. Dont worry if you do because that can always be sanded down. Let that dry for about 1-2 hours (high build primer takes a long time to dry).
6) Once the kit is primered it's time for some test fitting. Here are the bolts for the front bumper:
7) To remove the sideskirts there are 5 screws underneath the car and 2 snap tabs in the front wheel wells. The stock skirts should snap off (white pop tabs and some sticky tape). You dont need to fit those since that is done after painting.
8) to remove the rear bumper, there is 1 screw in the wheel well, remove the trunk carpeting (all pop tabs). 1 on each side near the wheel well and 4 in the back (stick ur head in the wheel well and look back at where ur body would be, ull see 4 bolts, u need a deep socket 10mm with a driver extension to reach those). Remove the tail lights and there's 1 bolt under each tail light. Remove the stock bumper and fit the rear bumper.
9) The kit is fit on and looks good and primered? Now drive it around for a day or so to make sure ur installation is secure.
10) After removing the bumpers from the car pull em back into ur painting area and sand em lightly to remove all the debris and imperfections in it. If needed use the glazing putty to fill in the deeper inperfections that wont sand out easy.
11) Once the kit is nice and smooth (sanded well with a 600 grit, wetsanded if a show car look is desired). It's time to clean off the primer dust and get ready for the paint. Use a lint free cloth or a microfiber cloth to take off all the dust from sanding. Do not use alcohol or acetone here as that will ruin the primer finish.
12) Once clean prepare the paint gun (insert a filter in the gravity tubing, and make sure it's clean). Then mix the paint with the proper amount of reducer. Once that is complete run the paint through a strainer and into the paint gun canister. The strainer catches anything that might have landed in the paint during mixing.
13) Start painting the kit! Set the compressor to 50 psi and use the same method as before, a light patchy layer for coverage. Then after 15 minutes go again with a medium covering coat. Then let that dry for 15 mins and go for a 3rd coat for full coverage. Do as many coats as you feel necessary. Wait till the overspray clears out and inspect the painted surface after each layer. Check for patchiness or paint that ran (dripped). Plan for the next layer (go heavier on the lighter areas and go light on the areas that is already covered good). Once you are satisfied (usually after 5-7 layers of paint) let the paint dry for a good hour or 2. If you make a mistake or anything lands in the paint, lightly sand it with a 1200 grit paper and apply another coat or 2 over it.
14) When the paint is dry fully inspect the bumper before moving on, because once the clearcoat hits, u have sealed the paint layer. Check for any needle sized pits or small imperfections. Paint is known to bring out ALL of the tiniest imperfections you cant even see in primer or on the bare kit.
14.5) *OPTIONAL STEP* If you are going for a TRUE show stopper finish this step is imperative. Colorsanding. Use a 1200 grit paper and wetsand the paint so that it is somewhat semi-glossy and 100% smooth. Do not sand too much otherwise you will eat through the paint all the way down to the primer. (If you decide to do this step, you should do more than 5-7 coats of paint. Try goin for 10-12 coats.)
Once you are satisfied with your paint job you will be facing the most critical part of the entire paint operation.... the clearcoat, *DUN DUN DUUNNNNNNNN*
15) Before beginning to clearcoat. Use a clean microfiber cloth or any lintless cloth to remove anything that might have settled on the surfaces to be clearcoated. Cover anything that you do not want clearcoat to settle on, including your body. Clearcoat is a PAIN IN THE @$$ to remove. Wear long sleeved clothing and wear a full face mask and latex gloves.
16) Mix the clearcoat with the activator and run that through a strainer into the gun's canister. Set the compressor to 45 psi and start shooting! Start with moderate coverage (dont try to make everything smooth. Clearcoat will start dripping VERY easily). The key to clearcoat is that you cannot go too thin and you cannot go too thick. If it's too thin it will have MAD orangepeel, if it's too thick it will run like crazy (drip thingies). This step cant be described too much, it's all based on judgement. Do a medium first coat and let that dry for about 30-45 minutes. For the next coat try to go for a heavier coverage but CAREFUL NOT TO OVERDO IT! Let that one dry for an hour or so then go back for a 3rd layer. The 3rd layer should be moderate coverage. There will still be orangepeel texture so dont worry about that. Let the clearcoat dry for 24-48 hours. If you made a mistake (let it run) just leave it to dry, there's nothing u can do while it's wet. Do not try to "even out" the drip by applying more because it will only make it worse.
17) Once the clearcoat is dry, inspect for imperfections. If it looks good to you then skip down to step 18, if not then follow step 17.5.
17.5) If the clearcoat has runs in it or looks patchy (went too light) then wetsand the area of problem with a 1200 grit or coarser (if needed) (if you're sanding a clearcoat dripping dont sand it too much other wise it will go down to the paint, which is VERY bad). Once you have wetsanded with 1200 or coarser grit wetsand with a 2000 grit to smoothen it out good. Clean up with a microfiber cloth or lintless paper. Reapply another 1 or 2 layers of clearcoat. and let that dry for 24-48 hours.
17.75) If you want a TRUE showcar finish you have to wetsand the kit with a 2000 or greater grit to get rid of 100% of the orangepeel. That will give it a very glossy very smooth finish. (If you plan to do this, you must apply more than 3 layers of clearcoat) After wetsanding use a buffing compound and a buffer to shine the kit up good for a beautiful glossy finish.
18) Once you are satisfied with your paint job test to see if the kit is dry (you can test if the clearcoat is ready to handle with ur finger. In an insconspicious area press ur index finger into the painted surface hard. If the clearcoat is dry, ur finger wouldnt have left an imprint (that you can feel). If it's wet then u will feel an imprint leftover from ur finger.)
19) Install the kit like you did before (the front and rear bumper). Then for the sideskirts apply 3M Heavy duty double sided tape to the mounting surface. Be sure to clean the surfaces you are applying the tape to (on the skirt and on the car). Apply the skirt to the car and adjust it and press it in so the tape holds it. Get 2 self tapping screws for each wheel well and drill em into the skirt and into the car. This step is best if you had a friend to help.
20) Sit back and admire your newly painted kit over a nice cool bud light (or a pepsi if ur underage).
My baby's battle scars
That's gonna be fixed when I paint my whole car black toward the end of summer
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