urbanknight

iTrader: (14)

This how-to is based on my install of the Tein Coilover suspension kit, but it should be very similar with Jic Magic, Ralliart/Eibach and most other shock/spring combinations. You can also use these instructions if you are just installing springs.

Tools required:
- floor jack and (4) jack stands (or a lift)
- impact wrench (or spring compressor)
- socket wrench
- breaker bar (long socket wrench without ratchet)
- sockets: 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm (maybe others)
- wrenches: 12mm, 17mm, 19mm (maybe others)
- flathead screwdriver
- pliers
- rubber mallet
- hole punch (or any rod about 1/8-1/4 inch diameter)

Instructions:
1. jack car up onto jack stands or lift *never work under a floor jack
2. remove wheels (impact wrench or breaker + 19mm socket)
*mark tires to remember where each one goes

Removing original front shocks:
3. remove (3) bolts from top of strut tower in engine bay (14mm + socket)
*if you have a strut bar, pull that off at this time.
4. remove clip that holds the break line to the shock (screwdriver and/or pliers)
5. remove (2) bolts holding the shock to the axle (breaker + 19mm + 19mm wrench)
*might require impact wrench and mallet
6. slowly push axle down and pull shock assembly out
*do not pull axle too far down
7. remove top parts from shock assembly (impact or spring compressor + 17mm)
8. repeat steps 3-8 on other side

Installing new front shocks:
9. follow shock diagram on manual for assembly of new shock & spring
*some parts off original shock may be needed
* notice any fitment of cap to top of spring
10. Set ride height and/or dampening per shock manual (Tein = 30mm, level6)
*does not to apply to non-adjustables, such as Eibach/Ralliart
11. tighten shock assembly (reverse of step 7)
12. remove brake cable bracket from original shock (12mm)
13. install brake cable bracket on new shock (13mm for Teins)
14. put shock back on with (3) strut tower bolts *hand tight for now (re: step 3)
15. Install and tighten the bottom bolts holding shock to axle (re: step 5)
16. tighten strut tower bolts from step 14
17. replace brake cable clip, holding cable in place (re: step 5)
*if you have a strut bar, you may reinstall it now or after the entire install
18. repeat steps 9-17 on other side

Removing original rear shocks:
19. fold rear seats forward
20. remove (2) plugs and plastic panels behind rear seats (screwdriver)
21. remove trunk liner (just pull it out)
22. remove (4) plugs holding trunk interior (push centers & pull plug)
23. pulling back trunk interior, remove (2) bolts from strut tower (14mm + socket)
24. Remove (2) bolts holding axle to shock & control arm (breaker + 17mm + 17mm wrench)
*might require impact wrench, mallet, and hole punch
25. remove sway bar bolt from control arm (14mm socket + 12mm wrench)
26. repeat steps 20-25 on other side

27. Push control arm down and pull shock assembly out
28. remove top parts from shock assembly (impact or spring compressor + 17mm)
29. repeat steps 27 and 28 on other side

Installing new rear shocks:
30. follow shock diagram on manual for assembly of new shock & spring
*some parts off original shock may be needed
*notice any fitment of cap to top of spring
31. Set ride height and/or dampening per shock manual (Tein = 30mm, level6)
*does not to apply to non-adjustables
32. tighten shock assembly (reverse of step 27)
33. put shock back on with (2) strut tower bolts *hand tight for now (re: step 24)
34. repeat steps 30-33 on other side

35. install bolts for axle, control arm, and shock *hand tight for now (re: step 24)
*might require mallet
36. repeat step 35 on other side

37. tighten bolts from steps 33 & 35
38. reinstall and tighten bolts for sway bar (re: step 25)
39. repeat steps 37-38 on other side

Finishing up:
40. recheck the dempening levels
*does not apply to non-adjustables
41. reinstall trunk interior (reverse of steps 19-22)
42. replace wheels *once on the ground, torque lug nuts to about 80 lb

*Tein does not recommend use of an impact wrench, so use with caution and discretion. Short blips with "authority" are best
**place all fasteners and small parts in a safe location to avoid losing them (ie. kicked under a car, etc.) before the reinstall
*** author is not responsible for any misquoted tool sizes, missed steps, or any other liabilities related to this article

SPECIAL THANKS to Rob and Gabe at Road///Race for advice, help, and use of their shop and tools for this install

urbanknight

iTrader: (14)

Make sure to get an alignment after any suspension modifications. Also, I plan on installing Tein camber plates on the front soon, and will do a respectove write-up.

KillaSweep

iTrader: (1)

Hey there I was just wondering if you actually need a spring compressor to install coilovers......any tips on how to make sure all 4 corners are level? I have an Evo VIII and will eventually be installing the Tein Flex Coilovers...and if I get brave...the edfc....any advice would be great...thanks! btw good write up!
Pics would be great too

urbanknight

iTrader: (14)

If you run a search, it has been discussed that you do not need a spring compressor in most cases. I have installed the Tein SS kit and the Progress springs without one (impact wrench instead), with no problems.

I have heard about corner balancing, but haven't delved into the subject yet, although I hear it is a good idea for handling. I might do it now that I'm done moving things around. Ask a racing shop or race-bread alignment shop about it. As for my setup right now, I adjusted the height until the control arms were perfectly level (using a contractor's level).

If you are planning on doing any true competition, make sure EDFC is allowed in your racing class. It is not allowed in mine (although there is not enough room under the hood of a Lancer for EDFC anyway). But if you're just looking to make a kick-@$$ Evolution, you won't be dissapointed!

KillaSweep

iTrader: (1)

Awesome...thanks for the info.....unfortunately I don't have a big enough aircompressor for an impact wrench i don't think.....would it be nearly impossible to do it manually....or would it just be ridiculous?

urbanknight

iTrader: (14)

It will take you about 10 hours of manually unscrewing the nut on the top of each strut (slight exaggeration). I highly recommend getting ahold of at least a cordless impact wrench, Home Depot rents them for like $20 a day. That's what I used, it's got enough torque to spin the nut off.

Alchemist

iTrader: (23)

bringing this back from the dead:

I just did my install last night. I was under the mistaken impression it wouldn't be much harder than a spring install (which I can do in about an hour with a little help on the rear shocks). With all the setting of the spring heights and trying to torque down the top nuts it took over 4 hours.

Some questions and observations:
I had to jack up my front control arms to get the strut and control arm brackets to match. There my be another way, but I couldn't see it.
It looks like the tires will bottom out in the wheel well, but when you drop the car back onto the tires, there's hardly any spring compression. It's really quite impressive.

30mm setting would be fine, I think. I set everything to 40mm per Urbanknights advice and found that I had more wheelgap than before (I want a lower cg for better handling). As I moved toward 30mm I found there was still a lot of gap, but it didn't appear that there was much change in suspension geometry. I'll do some measuring today to see if my settings are out of whack.

Torquing the top nuts:
I used my impact gun to get the nut started. Then I had a hell of a time getting the torque spec. Any suggestions? The same issue in the rear- in fact one of the nuts came loose and I had the washer rattling around for most of my test drive.
I did spin the inner tube a little on one of the struts Think that's gonna be a fatal problem?

Z_Lancer_Man

iTrader: (115)

How do you torque those top strut nuts without spinning the strut?

urbanknight

iTrader: (14)

with an impact wrench. It spins fast enough we didn't get much spin on the struts at all. You just have to spin them on quickly to about where they were before you took them off.

OZLancerlunatic

iTrader: (10)

A little bit of advice from experience.........start EVERY nut back on by hand, dont just put it on top and blast it with the impact gun or you risk stripping it.

Something simple but so many forget...

Z_Lancer_Man

iTrader: (115)

I don't really remember where they were before. Any one want to measure it for me?

Alchemist

iTrader: (23)

Just to clarify- what I meant was, I started them by hand and then used the impact gun before switching to the torque wrench.

Z: just get them close. They'll be fine

Z_Lancer_Man

iTrader: (115)

Also, could the rattling Im hearing from the front struts now be caused by not having tightened the nuts tight enough? The clanking has been getting worse since my spring install two weeks ago. Also, could it be due to the fact that I've raised the fron end up twice since the install to remove/reinstall my header?

urbanknight

iTrader: (14)

Z, my experience tells me that it varies, but about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of exposed thread at the top of spindle seems to be good.

As for the rattles, I have one that was there ever since I installed it. It's probbaly just the spring and the close tolerances.

Z_Lancer_Man

iTrader: (115)

Cool. THanks for all the help. I am going to go and double check the strut bolts now. One last thing, is it better to tighten the nuts with the car on the ground or should i jack up the car?