03lances

iTrader: (14)

It should not be that tight something seems off here… Have you tried the pipe wrench? I bought one for like $2 awhile back and it has served me well for stripped bolts and removing studs.

trfguy

I'll explain this as "engineery" as I can, it's one of those things that's a lot easier to show than explain, but here goes:
With a chisel (air or hammer powered) place the point on the outer edge of the bolt, sharp edge perpendicular to the bolt head, parallel with the length of the bolt. Aim the chisel directly at the center of the bolt, while striking enough times to make a small grove in the head of the bolt head perimeter. Now, adjust the angle of your chisel so that you're going to drive the bolt counter-clockwise (loosening). You should be pointed about half way between the center of the bolt, and the perimeter of the head. You should be pointed at the side of notch you made previously. Now strike the chisel, the shock of the hammer should break free the fastener. Much like an impact wrench. If unsuccessful, try making your notch a little deeper, and/or starting over on another section of bolt head.
This is just how I do it. I'm sure other methods work too (pipe wrench, vise grips, etc), with an air chisel I can have the idler bolt off in a couple seconds. I don't even try the torx socket until the bolt's broken free any more. It seems that only destroys tools, and the bolt.
Good luck!

mci2727

iTrader: (12)

Thanks so much everyone!
A pipe wrench did the trick but boy was that thing tight!
Now to replace these busted bearings

03lances

iTrader: (14)

Awesome news!! Once the Input shaft is out iirc there is just the retaining clip that is slipped into a groove by the ISB then you can press off the old one and press on the new on ( If you're planning on replacing the bearing yourself this is) here is a couple pics of the shaft on the press, I dont think I took any of that clip.

mci2727

iTrader: (12)

03lancers am I correct in thinking that the large balled bearing (closest to the throwout bearing) is the one I should be replacing?
You don't happen to know if it's product number is 2526A001? Should I consider replacing the other bearing or output shaft bearings?

03lances

iTrader: (14)

Yes that is the Input Shaft Bearing. As far as the others go I tend to stick with "if its not broke don't fix it" but it all depends on how bad your ISB is. If you are worried that there may be damage to the other bearings upon inspection I would most definitely change them out.

mci2727

iTrader: (12)

FINALLY got the tranny put back in the car and all seemed fine until I got up to 55+mph... Any acceleration at 55 or higher and I get a fairly heavy vibration from the front end somewhere. No vibration at coasting even at 80.

I replaced both my axles around 30K miles ago and have RRM motor mounts on it. The vibration is new since I got the car back on the road. The car did sit for about 3 months while I was working on it.

Any ideas what could be causing this? CV joint, wheel bearing? I do get a bearing noise when I turn right, but I'm not 100% sure if it's a bearing or my brakes still working a little rust off.

03lances

iTrader: (14)

Its possible you lost a weight on one of your rims. Usually 55mph is dead on with a out of balance wheel.

mci2727

iTrader: (12)

*Update*
It turned out to be a bad CV joint... Blew to pieces a few good pulls later

Everything is great now, thanks so much for the help!

Mr9S

Sorry to bring out this old thread but how has your new isb been holding up? Did the grinding sound ever come back? I am in the process of cracking my gearbox open because of this sound.

Thx