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Lancer Troubleshooting Get help with any troubleshooting problems you may have.

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Old Aug 25, 2005, 10:51 PM   #1
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My car won't stay running

Here's the background, a couple of nights ago there was a lot of water, raining cats and dogs. I ended up driving through some very deeps puddles. The car runs fine the next day, so I wasn't worried. 2 days after that night my car starts up and I pull out of the driveway only to have the car die once in the road. I try to restart it and the engine started but then shut down a second or 2 later.

Today: In a frenzy to return it to stock; I'm taking off my CAI and water literally pours out of the tube. My intake filter also isn't attached.

Is there anything that could have happened other than the water? It happened many days ago and ran perfectly fine. I have taken every aftermarket part off hoping that it will look stock enough to be repaired under warranty. (I blacked out my headlights, s2000 antanae, dark tint, short shifter. Nothing that can be blamed for the engine. I did take off a grounding kit, CAI, and the strut bars.)

Is there any hope for warranty fixing this? What do you all think the problem might be?
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Old Aug 25, 2005, 10:57 PM   #2
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The filter just might be super soaked or ruined if it had so much water pass through it to actually rest in the piping. Unless there was a lot of water coming in to block air passage and only pure water came in, hydrolock may not be the problem. If it is actually fully starting and staying alive. Try re-oiling the filter if you have it or buy a new ASAP. Sht if nothing else go to Autozone to get one so you don't have to wait for a decent one in the mail.
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Old Aug 25, 2005, 10:58 PM   #3
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Make sure to let the filter dry before and after oiling it and don't use a fan or other source, especially heat, to dry it. Let it dry on its own if it's wet, and after you oil it. And after that if it is still fcked, take it into Mitsu.

Good luck!
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my car powered by the source engine:
.wad's
.bsp's
.hlrad's
.hlbsp's

.hlcsg's
.hlvis'
.hlm's
.cgx's
.vmf's
.fgd's
.cfg's
.mdl's
.vis'
zhlt's
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Old Aug 25, 2005, 10:59 PM   #4
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Oh and almost forgot: Is it running now that you put the stock airbox back in?
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my car powered by the source engine:
.wad's
.bsp's
.hlrad's
.hlbsp's

.hlcsg's
.hlvis'
.hlm's
.cgx's
.vmf's
.fgd's
.cfg's
.mdl's
.vis'
zhlt's
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Old Aug 25, 2005, 11:18 PM   #5
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No, it's not working after returning it to stock. and actually, since I reset the computer, the car won't run at all. I heard I can take out the spark plugs and try to turn the engine. I was told if there is water in the engine, it will be pushed out of the spark plug holes. Is this true of this particular engine?
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Old Aug 25, 2005, 11:26 PM   #6
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My friend's sentra did. I don't know about our cars in particular but it's worth a shot. Since I really doubt Mitsu would think the stock airbox could suck water into the engine. But in the case of it not starting I fear that it is actually hydrolocked. As far as the water squirting goes, PM one of the Guru's. I am sure they would know. Try Hobiekopek or Alchemist, they know there lancer sht.
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my car powered by the source engine:
.wad's
.bsp's
.hlrad's
.hlbsp's

.hlcsg's
.hlvis'
.hlm's
.cgx's
.vmf's
.fgd's
.cfg's
.mdl's
.vis'
zhlt's
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Old Aug 25, 2005, 11:29 PM   #7
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Whats hydrolock? How do you fix it?
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Old Aug 25, 2005, 11:37 PM   #8
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The thing with water getting in the engine is, it won't compress. The motor runs on compression and uses an air and fuel mixture to do so. But the water gets in there, which is 10 times denser than air, and more or less keeps the pistons from compressing. In my friends Sentra he removed the plugs and everytime he tried to turn the engine over it would squirt water out at a ridiculous rate.
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my car powered by the source engine:
.wad's
.bsp's
.hlrad's
.hlbsp's

.hlcsg's
.hlvis'
.hlm's
.cgx's
.vmf's
.fgd's
.cfg's
.mdl's
.vis'
zhlt's
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Old Aug 25, 2005, 11:42 PM   #9
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I think in order to actually squirt the water out by trying to start it, you must leave some of the plugs in. Since our's only have 2, it might take a while given if it works or not. With no plugs I am not sure if the engine would turn over since there would be no spark. But then again if all 4 cylinders and full of water, the spark plug theory might not work either.
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my car powered by the source engine:
.wad's
.bsp's
.hlrad's
.hlbsp's

.hlcsg's
.hlvis'
.hlm's
.cgx's
.vmf's
.fgd's
.cfg's
.mdl's
.vis'
zhlt's
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Old Aug 25, 2005, 11:49 PM   #10
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take all the plugs out. wrap a thin dowel (1/4" or so) with a shop towel. Wile holding towel and dowel insert into cylinder. Remove. If it's wet, you have hydrolock (in all likelyhood) and if you're lucky you didn't ruin anything with the super high compression. Just leave the plugs out and keep trying with the shop towel until it's dry. Then reinstall the plugs and give it a try. Could take a few days (or longer). It might not work, either.

The other option is to remove the cylinder head and wipe everything down.

You said "the intake filter wasn't attached" How not attached? A lot or a little? You could have sucked something else in there. And your dealer is gonna know you had an intake because it would take water so deep you'd be swimming in order to flood the stock intake.

Good luck
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Old Aug 25, 2005, 11:53 PM   #11
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^^Told you he'd know!
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my car powered by the source engine:
.wad's
.bsp's
.hlrad's
.hlbsp's

.hlcsg's
.hlvis'
.hlm's
.cgx's
.vmf's
.fgd's
.cfg's
.mdl's
.vis'
zhlt's
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Old Aug 26, 2005, 08:51 AM   #12
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Is it weird that the car ran fine for several days afterward? The filter was attached but really loose, and I think I just knocked it off when removing it.
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Old Aug 26, 2005, 09:49 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xshieldsx
I think in order to actually squirt the water out by trying to start it, you must leave some of the plugs in. Since our's only have 2, it might take a while given if it works or not.
Not to be a pr!ck, but we do have 4 spark plugs. With the dual coil design we only have 2 plug wires, but there is still a spark plug for each cylinder.
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Old Aug 26, 2005, 09:49 AM   #14
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I'd say it was weird if the piping was dry when you removed it. Because there was so much water still in the pipe, it's possible that you'd get that kind of delay. Besides, it's an easy place to start.
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you're obviously busy multitasking on myspace, AIM, limewire, EvoM OT & teh free pr0n. But please, at least read a couple of the posts before responding.

Dyno'd Lancers http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=67825

NA lancers
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=74271
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=70372


Best DIY http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=128526
eM & timing harness install
http://home.fuse.net/wallace/emanage...ge_Install.htm
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Old Aug 26, 2005, 09:50 AM   #15
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and I don't think you're likely to get any squirting out of the engine.

Once you get it started running again, do not run it for more than a few seconds. water will have built up in your oil and if you try to drive on "wet" oil you will throw a bearing and you will have to do a total engine rebuild (this is the main reason hydrolock is bad). You'll need an oil change (and I mgit even do a second change after about 50 miles just to be sure). You'll probably also want to get a few bottles of a condensation remover and add it to your fuel for a couple tanks just to be sure it's all gone and not staying trapped in your engine.
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you're obviously busy multitasking on myspace, AIM, limewire, EvoM OT & teh free pr0n. But please, at least read a couple of the posts before responding.

Dyno'd Lancers http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=67825

NA lancers
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=74271
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=70372


Best DIY http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=128526
eM & timing harness install
http://home.fuse.net/wallace/emanage...ge_Install.htm

Last edited by Alchemist; Aug 26, 2005 at 10:23 AM.
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Old Aug 26, 2005, 09:50 AM
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