clutch bleeding problem
#1
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clutch bleeding problem
So as always i've searched on how to bleed the clutch, its pretty much exactly the same as bleeding the brakes. This is what i did.
Kept the fluid all the way to the top of the neck in the reservoir
having my buddy in the car had him compress the pedal as i release the bleeder screw and close it before the pedal hit the floor. then have him pull it up and repeat the process.
MY PROBLEM, i'm making sure the the fluid level is to the top the whole time (above max line) but yet i can't get a solid stream of fluid i keep getting air bubbles!!!! i don't understand what the hell the problem is someone help. never had a problem bleeding lines in the past this is the first one.
Kept the fluid all the way to the top of the neck in the reservoir
having my buddy in the car had him compress the pedal as i release the bleeder screw and close it before the pedal hit the floor. then have him pull it up and repeat the process.
MY PROBLEM, i'm making sure the the fluid level is to the top the whole time (above max line) but yet i can't get a solid stream of fluid i keep getting air bubbles!!!! i don't understand what the hell the problem is someone help. never had a problem bleeding lines in the past this is the first one.
Last edited by mauisurf2003; Jun 8, 2007 at 12:18 PM.
#4
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Loose line, cracked line, fitting not sealing when you tighten it, or a shot master or slave. Have you had problems before you tried bleeding it? Say spongy pedal or lost fluid?
Worst case is that the piston inside the cylindar (sp?) is letting air/fluid by and giving you this problem.
Check all of your fittings, check the rubber hose portion for cracks or evidence of fluid, check the master for bubbles or oscillating fluid level.
Let us know.
Worst case is that the piston inside the cylindar (sp?) is letting air/fluid by and giving you this problem.
Check all of your fittings, check the rubber hose portion for cracks or evidence of fluid, check the master for bubbles or oscillating fluid level.
Let us know.
#5
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had this problem too when i installed my stainless clutch line. The problem is that the clutch bleeder screw is kinda loose. So you can't really unscrew it as much as say you would a brake bleeder screw. Try removing the bleeder screw, wipe it dry, put some teflon tape on the threads and screw it back in. Have someone press on the clutch slowly, say about three seconds from start to stop. Have the person pressing the clutch say when the clutch pedal is about half way down. I know it's weird but our clutch cylinder doesn't produce enough positive pressure to bleed correctly until the pedal reached a certain point. You will start bleeding when the clutch is at the halfway point and stop before it reaches the floor.
Also have them say stop before the clutch is at the bottom of the floor. So it will go like this
-you say "Go" Assistant starts to press clutch pedal down
-assistant says "Go"(Clutch pedal is about half way down) you release the bleeder screw.
-assistant says "Stop"(Before clutch hits the floor, and continues to press the clutch pedal down) You close the bleeder screw while assistant still continues pressing the clutch down towards the floor.
Pedal is released and you begin the process again.
The pedal should never, during the bleeding process, be stopped or allowed to come back up. This will release the pressure and allow air to come thru the bleeder screw while it is open. You only bleed when the clutch is in the downwards motion.
Keep the brake fluid filled up maybe at most 1/4" from the top at all times to ensure that no air enters the system. This should help others with the same problem. Good luck!
Also have them say stop before the clutch is at the bottom of the floor. So it will go like this
-you say "Go" Assistant starts to press clutch pedal down
-assistant says "Go"(Clutch pedal is about half way down) you release the bleeder screw.
-assistant says "Stop"(Before clutch hits the floor, and continues to press the clutch pedal down) You close the bleeder screw while assistant still continues pressing the clutch down towards the floor.
Pedal is released and you begin the process again.
The pedal should never, during the bleeding process, be stopped or allowed to come back up. This will release the pressure and allow air to come thru the bleeder screw while it is open. You only bleed when the clutch is in the downwards motion.
Keep the brake fluid filled up maybe at most 1/4" from the top at all times to ensure that no air enters the system. This should help others with the same problem. Good luck!
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