Slave or Master cylinder problem?
#1
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Jupiter
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Slave or Master cylinder problem?
After going at a high rate of speed (70-100), the car does not want to shift, the shift nob moves freely, but when putting the clutch pedal to the floor, the car acts as if it is not. What im trying to say is sometimes when I try to shift down or up the car acts like im not holding down the clutch. I have had several severe incidences where the car stalls in 1st gear with the clutch all the way to the floor. The car will get stuck for several minutes to hours before it is operable again. And I have to repeatedly "pump" the clutch to stiffen it and make it work. I really have no clue what is going wrong and I think I included all the symptoms.
EDIT: The car does not only do this after going at a high rate of speed. While cruising around town sometimes I have to "pump" the clutch once or twice before I can get the car to go in gear.
After taking it to a mechanic he said there was no problems after he "bled" the clutch and slave cylinder. This was only temporary, after going on the highway I had trouble today again.
A side note: For the first time today when starting the car I had a little trouble putting it into reverse. After several clutch "pumps" I got it in reverse but the car acted like it was stuck between 1st and R, going forward at one point while the car was in reverse and I was pushing on the gas letting off the clutch and freaked out immediatly turning the car off and restarting it with success. Have not had that problem before or since.
Any help appreciated I love my
EDIT: The car does not only do this after going at a high rate of speed. While cruising around town sometimes I have to "pump" the clutch once or twice before I can get the car to go in gear.
After taking it to a mechanic he said there was no problems after he "bled" the clutch and slave cylinder. This was only temporary, after going on the highway I had trouble today again.
A side note: For the first time today when starting the car I had a little trouble putting it into reverse. After several clutch "pumps" I got it in reverse but the car acted like it was stuck between 1st and R, going forward at one point while the car was in reverse and I was pushing on the gas letting off the clutch and freaked out immediatly turning the car off and restarting it with success. Have not had that problem before or since.
Any help appreciated I love my
Last edited by eusgen; Apr 27, 2010 at 11:06 AM.
#2
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
As you should know, the slave uses the same fluid as the master cylinder... So the master provides fluid to both your brakes and your clutch. What's the fluid level? Is it full? Is it nearly empty? How are your brakes? Do your brake pedal feels spongy?
If the master reservoir is full, I think air is getting in your system. If that's the case, we'll have to find out where it's coming from.
Have you tried bleeding the clutch yourself? It's as easy as bleeding the brakes, only difference is the nipple location.
If the master reservoir is full, I think air is getting in your system. If that's the case, we'll have to find out where it's coming from.
Have you tried bleeding the clutch yourself? It's as easy as bleeding the brakes, only difference is the nipple location.
#3
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Jupiter
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I recently purchased this vehicle and it is my first stick. (Im only 19 and im trying my best to learn about cars) I do not know how to bleed the clutch myself nor the brakes. Is there a thread with instructions on how to do this? Thanks for your quick and helpful reply.
Who ever I purchased the car from filled the reservoir past the full line almost to the edge of the cap itself. I think he did this not knowing what was wrong. (not that I do, but im trying ;-) ).
Who ever I purchased the car from filled the reservoir past the full line almost to the edge of the cap itself. I think he did this not knowing what was wrong. (not that I do, but im trying ;-) ).
#4
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
ok... assuming you know where the transmission is located...
Standing in front of the car, if you look at the transmission there will be some sort of a big squarish rubber gormet on the trans casing. Sticking out of that rubber patch is the bleeder with probably a colored cap on the nipple.
Once you have located the bleeder... Find the right size closed end wrench to operate the bleeder.
Once you have found the right wrench, break the bleeder loose and close it just so you don't have to mess with it too much when comes the next step.
Leave the wrench on the bleeder. On the nipple you'll want to put some sort of tubing that will catch any fluid coming out. That tubing will go from the nipple into a coke bottle or something. Don't let the fluid drop on the ground, dont let the fluid drop on the paint, don't let that fluid drop on anything valuable.
So at this point, the bleeder is easily operatable because you already broke it loose, the wrench is hanging on the bleeder waiting for some action, and there is a tube that goes from the bleeder nipple to a coke bottle.
Have a friend sit in the driver seat and explain the following:
IN: Means push the clutch down to the metal
I'm there: Means the clutch pedal as been fully pushed
Out: Means let the clutch go
You can use different words, but always use the same language throughout the whole process to avoid confusion.
So now that your buddy knows what to listen for and what to say, you can start bleeding the thing and this is how it'll go.
Open the bleeder
You say: IN
Buddy: I'm there
Close the bleeder
You: Out
Open the bleeder
You: IN
Buddy: I'm there
Close the bleeder
You: Out
and repeat until no more air bubbles are seen coming down the tube that catches the fluid. Don't forget to keep an eye on the master reservoir and add fluid as needed.
If you said your general location, maybe someone would be willing to come out and give you a hand
Standing in front of the car, if you look at the transmission there will be some sort of a big squarish rubber gormet on the trans casing. Sticking out of that rubber patch is the bleeder with probably a colored cap on the nipple.
Once you have located the bleeder... Find the right size closed end wrench to operate the bleeder.
Once you have found the right wrench, break the bleeder loose and close it just so you don't have to mess with it too much when comes the next step.
Leave the wrench on the bleeder. On the nipple you'll want to put some sort of tubing that will catch any fluid coming out. That tubing will go from the nipple into a coke bottle or something. Don't let the fluid drop on the ground, dont let the fluid drop on the paint, don't let that fluid drop on anything valuable.
So at this point, the bleeder is easily operatable because you already broke it loose, the wrench is hanging on the bleeder waiting for some action, and there is a tube that goes from the bleeder nipple to a coke bottle.
Have a friend sit in the driver seat and explain the following:
IN: Means push the clutch down to the metal
I'm there: Means the clutch pedal as been fully pushed
Out: Means let the clutch go
You can use different words, but always use the same language throughout the whole process to avoid confusion.
So now that your buddy knows what to listen for and what to say, you can start bleeding the thing and this is how it'll go.
Open the bleeder
You say: IN
Buddy: I'm there
Close the bleeder
You: Out
Open the bleeder
You: IN
Buddy: I'm there
Close the bleeder
You: Out
and repeat until no more air bubbles are seen coming down the tube that catches the fluid. Don't forget to keep an eye on the master reservoir and add fluid as needed.
If you said your general location, maybe someone would be willing to come out and give you a hand
Last edited by blaze_125; Apr 28, 2010 at 07:20 AM.
#5
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Jupiter
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here is a more specific location of where I live, because I doubt anyone lives close .
I live in:
Jupiter, Florida. In Palm Beach County. (southern Florida)
Thanks for that information on how to bleed the lines, I took it to a mechanic and he charged me 60 bucks to do the same thing and he didn't even look at the clutch/parts, etc. I took it back yesterday, hopefully he can get it right this time.
I live in:
Jupiter, Florida. In Palm Beach County. (southern Florida)
Thanks for that information on how to bleed the lines, I took it to a mechanic and he charged me 60 bucks to do the same thing and he didn't even look at the clutch/parts, etc. I took it back yesterday, hopefully he can get it right this time.
#7
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Jupiter
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After he returned it to me today it runs fine again, so far. I am going to try and drive it like a grandpa for a week and see if anything fails again, if not. I will test higher speeds again. I will keep ya posted. And thanks again for the help!
Trending Topics
#8
Evolving Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
had the same problem dude!
car wouldnt shift when cluch was engaged! just cause there was no hydraulic fluid.
but that fluid kept leaking so i had to replace the slave cylinder.
car wouldnt shift when cluch was engaged! just cause there was no hydraulic fluid.
but that fluid kept leaking so i had to replace the slave cylinder.
#9
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
to add to what cedes said... try parking always in the same spot. Before leaving for wherever you're heading to, just roll back (or forward), get out of the car and look for anything suspiscious where you were parked. Look for oil, deteriorated asphalt and the likes. If it leaks, it should leave a trace behind. Unless it leaks inside the housing... then you'd be in for quite a mess.
#10
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Jupiter
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Does the fluid have to be leaking for there to be an issue with the car? could it just be a bad slave? or is it related to some sort of leak? The fluid in the reservoir does not go down, can the fluid leak and not go down?
Also, upon further work on the car, I have located at least three switch locations in the car. This makes me think that there used to be possibly a turbo and or some sort of boost, etc. The intake manifold looks stock, and so do the headers, but the headers are quite rusty compared to the rest of the engine compartment.
Also, upon further work on the car, I have located at least three switch locations in the car. This makes me think that there used to be possibly a turbo and or some sort of boost, etc. The intake manifold looks stock, and so do the headers, but the headers are quite rusty compared to the rest of the engine compartment.
Last edited by eusgen; Apr 29, 2010 at 07:57 PM.
#11
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
switches? They could have been wired to just about anything... like neons, or even a coffee maker of the previous owner was that much into coffee... Prolly not, but you get my point lol
Fluid does not have to drop on the ground to be leaking. A leak could actually leak on something that retains the fluid and keeps it from dropping on the ground. And your problem is not necessarily an actual fluid leak. It could actually be air leaking in, as opposed to fluid leaking out. Since the fluid level in the reservoir does not go down, it unlikely to be a fluid leak.
Air leak? Good luck narrowing that down. I read somewhere yesterday that some shops have some sort of smoke maching type thing that will smoke the hydraulic lines and help pinpoint a leak. Maybe that could be something to look into further down the road if you're still having issues after this last bleed procedure you got done on the car.
In one of the sections of this board, you'll find a link to the Lancer's Shop manuals. I suggest you download the package and look up the clutch troubleshooting section. It could be very useful in helping you narrow down the issue, and possible future problem you may come across in the future.
Fluid does not have to drop on the ground to be leaking. A leak could actually leak on something that retains the fluid and keeps it from dropping on the ground. And your problem is not necessarily an actual fluid leak. It could actually be air leaking in, as opposed to fluid leaking out. Since the fluid level in the reservoir does not go down, it unlikely to be a fluid leak.
Air leak? Good luck narrowing that down. I read somewhere yesterday that some shops have some sort of smoke maching type thing that will smoke the hydraulic lines and help pinpoint a leak. Maybe that could be something to look into further down the road if you're still having issues after this last bleed procedure you got done on the car.
In one of the sections of this board, you'll find a link to the Lancer's Shop manuals. I suggest you download the package and look up the clutch troubleshooting section. It could be very useful in helping you narrow down the issue, and possible future problem you may come across in the future.
#12
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Jupiter
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did download that FSM, but I think the 02 model is just slightly different from the 03 model. Im having trouble finding parts that it says are easy to locate. I just purchased a card reader for my camera so I can upload pictures of what I am looking at.
Here are a few.
The one named bleeder is the only spot on my tranny that looks like a bleeder spot. Located directly in front when looking under the hood.
I have also a picture of some sort of cylinder bolted near my radiator. I have no clue what it is or what it does. (im a noob, sorry)
I posted a picture just above where the battery, intake, and tranny are located, could you pinpoint to where I should be looking for the bleeder, and filler plug.
After further inspection of the car, the intake manifold, exhaust header, and exhaust seem to all have been replaced. My car is a theft recovery tho.
Here are a few.
The one named bleeder is the only spot on my tranny that looks like a bleeder spot. Located directly in front when looking under the hood.
I have also a picture of some sort of cylinder bolted near my radiator. I have no clue what it is or what it does. (im a noob, sorry)
I posted a picture just above where the battery, intake, and tranny are located, could you pinpoint to where I should be looking for the bleeder, and filler plug.
After further inspection of the car, the intake manifold, exhaust header, and exhaust seem to all have been replaced. My car is a theft recovery tho.
#13
Evolving Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
to add to what cedes said... try parking always in the same spot. Before leaving for wherever you're heading to, just roll back (or forward), get out of the car and look for anything suspiscious where you were parked. Look for oil, deteriorated asphalt and the likes. If it leaks, it should leave a trace behind. Unless it leaks inside the housing... then you'd be in for quite a mess.
#14
Evolving Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did download that FSM, but I think the 02 model is just slightly different from the 03 model. Im having trouble finding parts that it says are easy to locate. I just purchased a card reader for my camera so I can upload pictures of what I am looking at.
Here are a few.
The one named bleeder is the only spot on my tranny that looks like a bleeder spot. Located directly in front when looking under the hood.
I have also a picture of some sort of cylinder bolted near my radiator. I have no clue what it is or what it does. (im a noob, sorry)
I posted a picture just above where the battery, intake, and tranny are located, could you pinpoint to where I should be looking for the bleeder, and filler plug.
After further inspection of the car, the intake manifold, exhaust header, and exhaust seem to all have been replaced. My car is a theft recovery tho.
Here are a few.
The one named bleeder is the only spot on my tranny that looks like a bleeder spot. Located directly in front when looking under the hood.
I have also a picture of some sort of cylinder bolted near my radiator. I have no clue what it is or what it does. (im a noob, sorry)
I posted a picture just above where the battery, intake, and tranny are located, could you pinpoint to where I should be looking for the bleeder, and filler plug.
After further inspection of the car, the intake manifold, exhaust header, and exhaust seem to all have been replaced. My car is a theft recovery tho.
your car looks stock to me man... except intake
and you have air conditionning i suppose? then thats one thing that mesmorizes you lol
i know theres alot of wiring on this car but hey its fun to drive
#15
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Jupiter
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
And I know it looks stock, but it looks like a lot of the stock parts have been replaced with other stock parts, just different levels of corrosion, rust, etc.