04 Lancer ES small issue when first starting...
Jun 10, 2013, 09:57 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Chicago
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
04 Lancer ES small issue when first starting...
My wife's car, which we recently purchased, is having a little issue that I have no clue how to diagnose.
At idle, with no gas pressed, the car has a VERY minor rpm dip when you put it in grear (automatic, so drive or reverse) and it doesn't really move forward or back like any other auto car I've driven. In other words, it seems like it gets less power than it should when it is put into gear at idle.
It has also turned off a couple times, out of probably 30-40 starts, when first turned on and immediately put into gear.
Otherwise, it drives great and both engine and trans work and sound as they should.
I do plan on doing the valve cover gasket and the spark plugs very soon as there is oil leaking outside and inside the spark plug holes. Timing belt looks to be in very good shape so I'm assuming someone did change it at around 100k since it now has 117xxx.
Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks!
At idle, with no gas pressed, the car has a VERY minor rpm dip when you put it in grear (automatic, so drive or reverse) and it doesn't really move forward or back like any other auto car I've driven. In other words, it seems like it gets less power than it should when it is put into gear at idle.
It has also turned off a couple times, out of probably 30-40 starts, when first turned on and immediately put into gear.
Otherwise, it drives great and both engine and trans work and sound as they should.
I do plan on doing the valve cover gasket and the spark plugs very soon as there is oil leaking outside and inside the spark plug holes. Timing belt looks to be in very good shape so I'm assuming someone did change it at around 100k since it now has 117xxx.
Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks!
Jun 11, 2013, 07:46 AM
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Chicago
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah I ordered the plugs, wires and valve cover gasket last night, so I'll be replacing everything soon. Is the idle control in the manual? I'm not too familiar with these engines as I've never worked on one before.
Jun 11, 2013, 08:32 AM
#4
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Jupiter
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ordered? from where?
You could have probably of bought all those things at the local parts store.
There is a downloadable pdf version of our manual somewhere around here.
edit found it here you go:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...able-here.html
You could have probably of bought all those things at the local parts store.
There is a downloadable pdf version of our manual somewhere around here.
edit found it here you go:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...able-here.html
Jun 11, 2013, 08:52 AM
#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Chicago
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ordered? from where?
You could have probably of bought all those things at the local parts store.
There is a downloadable pdf version of our manual somewhere around here.
edit found it here you go:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...able-here.html
You could have probably of bought all those things at the local parts store.
There is a downloadable pdf version of our manual somewhere around here.
edit found it here you go:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...able-here.html
As for the manual, I actually already have that downloaded, but I couldn't find any idle control valve in there, only some motor...
Jun 11, 2013, 09:28 PM
#7
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Chicago
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trending Topics
Jun 12, 2013, 08:37 PM
#9
Everything you have listed is a possibility for sure.
Go to autozone/advance and have them check your cold crank amps on your battery and see if it needs replacing, likewise they can check the condition of your alternator while checking the battery. Personal opinion would be to buy two cans of seafoam while you're there (one that is liquid and the other aerosol type will cost $20 for both). Id recommend this regardless of battery and alternator status due to mileage on your car.
You can also eliminate the following problems with this stuff and here is how;
Take the intake tubing off the throttle body and grab the aerosol seafoam and spray about 1/3 of the can into the manifold while pulling the throttle cable to open the valve (Clean the valve thoroughly..you might have to wipe off excess buildup depending on how bad it may be.) This takes care of a potentially sticky butterfly valve that could be causing the valve to not open during start.
Replace the intake tube back to your manifold. Start the car ( it will not turn over easy and when it does it will sound as if it will stall so give it some gas (200-2500rpm) and you should see a little or a lot of white smoke from your muffler.
Next there is a vac line that is next to the throttle body on the intake manifold. It looks like a "U" and is only about 2 inches long. Pull the top of the vac line off (top of the"U") and use the liquid seafoam and pour some into that vac line which will eventually get to where your intake valves are. Maybe 1/4 - 1/3 of the bottle (start with 1/4 for engine safety reasons, i.e. hydrolocking your motor). Start car and repeat the white smoke from the tailpipe process. This should help to resolve any sticky intake valves.
Lastly pour the rest of the liquid seafoam into your gas tank. This will do a awesome job of cleaning your injectors up.
Its not very hard but what generally causes these things to become "sticky" is carbon buildup. You should see a vac line running from your crankcase cover to your intake tubing. This is a excellent design as it will keep pressure from building in your motor, however, it pulls out hot carbon fumes that subsequently deposit in everything from you throttle body to intake valves, leaving carbon residue in its path.
General maintenance on these cars will keep it running like a champ.
Everything in this thread considered should get you straitened out. Then you have a happy wife and some of us know the benefits to that
Good luck!!
Go to autozone/advance and have them check your cold crank amps on your battery and see if it needs replacing, likewise they can check the condition of your alternator while checking the battery. Personal opinion would be to buy two cans of seafoam while you're there (one that is liquid and the other aerosol type will cost $20 for both). Id recommend this regardless of battery and alternator status due to mileage on your car.
You can also eliminate the following problems with this stuff and here is how;
Take the intake tubing off the throttle body and grab the aerosol seafoam and spray about 1/3 of the can into the manifold while pulling the throttle cable to open the valve (Clean the valve thoroughly..you might have to wipe off excess buildup depending on how bad it may be.) This takes care of a potentially sticky butterfly valve that could be causing the valve to not open during start.
Replace the intake tube back to your manifold. Start the car ( it will not turn over easy and when it does it will sound as if it will stall so give it some gas (200-2500rpm) and you should see a little or a lot of white smoke from your muffler.
Next there is a vac line that is next to the throttle body on the intake manifold. It looks like a "U" and is only about 2 inches long. Pull the top of the vac line off (top of the"U") and use the liquid seafoam and pour some into that vac line which will eventually get to where your intake valves are. Maybe 1/4 - 1/3 of the bottle (start with 1/4 for engine safety reasons, i.e. hydrolocking your motor). Start car and repeat the white smoke from the tailpipe process. This should help to resolve any sticky intake valves.
Lastly pour the rest of the liquid seafoam into your gas tank. This will do a awesome job of cleaning your injectors up.
Its not very hard but what generally causes these things to become "sticky" is carbon buildup. You should see a vac line running from your crankcase cover to your intake tubing. This is a excellent design as it will keep pressure from building in your motor, however, it pulls out hot carbon fumes that subsequently deposit in everything from you throttle body to intake valves, leaving carbon residue in its path.
General maintenance on these cars will keep it running like a champ.
Everything in this thread considered should get you straitened out. Then you have a happy wife and some of us know the benefits to that
Good luck!!
Jun 17, 2013, 06:49 PM
#10
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Chicago
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Everything you have listed is a possibility for sure.
Go to autozone/advance and have them check your cold crank amps on your battery and see if it needs replacing, likewise they can check the condition of your alternator while checking the battery. Personal opinion would be to buy two cans of seafoam while you're there (one that is liquid and the other aerosol type will cost $20 for both). Id recommend this regardless of battery and alternator status due to mileage on your car.
You can also eliminate the following problems with this stuff and here is how;
Take the intake tubing off the throttle body and grab the aerosol seafoam and spray about 1/3 of the can into the manifold while pulling the throttle cable to open the valve (Clean the valve thoroughly..you might have to wipe off excess buildup depending on how bad it may be.) This takes care of a potentially sticky butterfly valve that could be causing the valve to not open during start.
Replace the intake tube back to your manifold. Start the car ( it will not turn over easy and when it does it will sound as if it will stall so give it some gas (200-2500rpm) and you should see a little or a lot of white smoke from your muffler.
Next there is a vac line that is next to the throttle body on the intake manifold. It looks like a "U" and is only about 2 inches long. Pull the top of the vac line off (top of the"U") and use the liquid seafoam and pour some into that vac line which will eventually get to where your intake valves are. Maybe 1/4 - 1/3 of the bottle (start with 1/4 for engine safety reasons, i.e. hydrolocking your motor). Start car and repeat the white smoke from the tailpipe process. This should help to resolve any sticky intake valves.
Lastly pour the rest of the liquid seafoam into your gas tank. This will do a awesome job of cleaning your injectors up.
Its not very hard but what generally causes these things to become "sticky" is carbon buildup. You should see a vac line running from your crankcase cover to your intake tubing. This is a excellent design as it will keep pressure from building in your motor, however, it pulls out hot carbon fumes that subsequently deposit in everything from you throttle body to intake valves, leaving carbon residue in its path.
General maintenance on these cars will keep it running like a champ.
Everything in this thread considered should get you straitened out. Then you have a happy wife and some of us know the benefits to that
Good luck!!
Go to autozone/advance and have them check your cold crank amps on your battery and see if it needs replacing, likewise they can check the condition of your alternator while checking the battery. Personal opinion would be to buy two cans of seafoam while you're there (one that is liquid and the other aerosol type will cost $20 for both). Id recommend this regardless of battery and alternator status due to mileage on your car.
You can also eliminate the following problems with this stuff and here is how;
Take the intake tubing off the throttle body and grab the aerosol seafoam and spray about 1/3 of the can into the manifold while pulling the throttle cable to open the valve (Clean the valve thoroughly..you might have to wipe off excess buildup depending on how bad it may be.) This takes care of a potentially sticky butterfly valve that could be causing the valve to not open during start.
Replace the intake tube back to your manifold. Start the car ( it will not turn over easy and when it does it will sound as if it will stall so give it some gas (200-2500rpm) and you should see a little or a lot of white smoke from your muffler.
Next there is a vac line that is next to the throttle body on the intake manifold. It looks like a "U" and is only about 2 inches long. Pull the top of the vac line off (top of the"U") and use the liquid seafoam and pour some into that vac line which will eventually get to where your intake valves are. Maybe 1/4 - 1/3 of the bottle (start with 1/4 for engine safety reasons, i.e. hydrolocking your motor). Start car and repeat the white smoke from the tailpipe process. This should help to resolve any sticky intake valves.
Lastly pour the rest of the liquid seafoam into your gas tank. This will do a awesome job of cleaning your injectors up.
Its not very hard but what generally causes these things to become "sticky" is carbon buildup. You should see a vac line running from your crankcase cover to your intake tubing. This is a excellent design as it will keep pressure from building in your motor, however, it pulls out hot carbon fumes that subsequently deposit in everything from you throttle body to intake valves, leaving carbon residue in its path.
General maintenance on these cars will keep it running like a champ.
Everything in this thread considered should get you straitened out. Then you have a happy wife and some of us know the benefits to that
Good luck!!
Jun 23, 2013, 08:22 PM
#12
Should be a picture of the vac line that is a bit tricky but that's where I pour the seafoam and stall the vehicle. Once I do stall the car, I usually let it sit for about 10 minutes then begin the smoke making.
Hope this helps!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bjr990
04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain
8
Sep 27, 2017 02:14 PM
Evo1001
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
5
May 30, 2017 06:42 PM
Eartears
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
23
Mar 1, 2017 11:53 AM
