Roulettejunkie

Hey guys,
I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer ES that had a marginal battery which on a cold morning a couple weeks ago did not start. Bought a new battery, installed it and got nothing (not even a click). I took the "new" battery back to have it tested and bought new cable ends because I saw some corrosion on the positive and a crack in the negative. Battery tested good and installed the cable ends and still nothing. Checked fuses (all good), took the starter off (what a ***** that was!) had it tested and it's good as well. I can't find a Chiltons or Haynes manual for this car so I don't know where the starter relay is located. Other than that . . . I am lost unless I am looking at an ignition control module or an ignition coil (if this vehicle even has one). Oh . . also checked the ground to the engine which was good.


I'm a mainframe computer operator, not a car mechanic . . . but, I'm just not ready to turn in my "man card" and cave to taking it to the garage just yet.


Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

manual or auto? has nothing to do with ignition, if it's not even cranking...check clutch interlock switch (if manual), and starter relay.


also, with the ignition switch in the ON position, do you get accessory power?


also you could try wiggling the key, while holding it in the start position....my 03 ES had a bad ignition switch, and that worked for a while...

Roulettejunkie

Hey, thanks for the reply . . . it's auto. Would you happen to know where the starter relay is? I just went out and wiggled the key while in the start position and nothing going there.

All my accessories work when ignition switch is in the ON position . . . dash lights, headlights etc.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

sorry, I forgot...there's no starter relay for the auto, for the same reason there's no clutch interlock switch...what allows the solenoid to engage is the transmission range switch...it will only work in either park OR neutral...so if you're trying to start it in park, try starting in neutral.


if that doesn't work, verify all the connections at the starter and solenoid, and just to be sure when you checked your ground, did you verify continuity from the engine and transmission case to the chassis?




there are some MFI (multiport fuel injection) system circuits that get power through the range switch as well, if you had a short there, that could cause the problem as well...when you try to turn the key does everything dim?


it could also just be the ignition switch...there's a verification procedure, but you would need a multi meter...you would also need to take the steering column covers off, but you only need a regular #2 Phillips screwdriver for that...

02modlanceroz

iTrader: (2)

If they said the starter was in good working order. I would suspect it to be the ignition switch. The starter contacts are usually the first to go in the switch.

If it were my car, I'd put the car in park, put the E-brake on. Then I would turn the key so it's in the run position. I would get a jump wire and connect the positive lead on the battery to the solenoid on the starter. *** this can be dangerous***, only do this if you know what you're doing. If you do attempt this, connect the cable to the starter solenoid first then get out from under the car and touch it to the battery. Do not attempt this the other way. You never want to attempt to start a car while under it. Also, having a live wire that's not secure is a bad idea, could short out and catch fire or blow fuses. If you don't know where the solenoid is on the starter, don't attempt this either.

If you do the above and it does start. Ignition switch will need replaced. If it engages the starter but doesn't start, make sure fuel pump is turning on with the key in run position. If it doesn't engage at all, you're going to have to get a multimeter and do some checks.

Roulettejunkie

Okay, I was away from the car for a bit . . . I was able to connect a jumper wire from the starter solenoid, turn the key to the run position and touched the other end of the jumper wire to the positive post on the battery. I get a "clicking" noise, but it's not trying to turn over probably because I did not have the positive battery cable end attached at the time. Since I was getting nothing before (except dash lights and accessories) but no sound at all, I'm considering this a step in the right direction.

Can anyone confirm if this is still sounding like the ignition switch?

Again, no clicking or sound of any kind prior to the jumper wire and a steady clicking with the jumper wire connected to the solenoid and touched to the positive battery terminal.

02modlanceroz

iTrader: (2)

Well if it's just clicking and you can't get it to spin, either the starter is sticking or it doesn't have enough amps to turn it. I'm guessing a weak connection or a bad battery. I wouldn't blame it on a ignition switch yet, if the battery is weak enough or has a very bad connection to the starter. It won't even click. I'd try bench testing the starter with a different battery to roll out the starter as a problem.