j0hne

My horn would work off and on and now it's stopped working completely. I can't pass inspection without the horn.

I've read that I need to check the wiring all the way up to the airbag pad.

However I'm not sure how to get the horn to sound from the single wire bullet connector under the steering wheel. I heard there was a way to make that happen so I can isolate the airbag pad as the culprit. Any ideas?


If I can't get it to work, I might just swap out the entire steering wheel. It seems this would be cheaper than having to replace the airbag.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

have you checked the fuse and horn relay? you can swap it with another relay to check it...can you send a picture of the connector you're talking about? cause the connector from the clock-spring should be a 6 pin connector.

j0hne

Yes. I've tried changing fuses and swapping the relays. I've also tested the horns with direct power.

I'm trying to figure out if the horn pad is bad, but I guess it could be the clockspring, however the horn was working in the past.

I read somewhere that I could disconnect the the red wire and try to activate the horn with the other end. I was under the assumption that the yellow connector was for the air bag... is there a connection to the horn there?

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

there are other harness connectors in that section of the column cover, I forget which one it is...pretty sure it's not in the airbag connector, so leave that one alone. when you say horn pad, you mean the switch, right?

j0hne

When I say horn pad I'm talking about what you push on the steering wheel to activate the horn. It feels flat and there's no rebound.

I'm thinking it broken, but I would think if it was stuck on the "on" position it would be blaring the whole time. I'm really not sure that's why I really what to isolate the problem.

I'll look underneath the column to check for other connectors.

It is possible for the horn pad to move around the steering wheel... Could it "fall" from the center of steering wheel and slide down or to the side?

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

ok, yeah there's a switch under "the pad"...once you find the connector you can meter the switch for continuity.

j0hne

Just a follow up... So I figured out that my clock spring is bad.

Also, I figured out how to activate the horn from a white connector in the steering column and how to check the horn pad in the air bag.

Checking the horn pad on the air bag

You can bypass the clock spring using this method. You will need to remove the trim around the steering column. There are three screws to remove. All three are "underneath" the steering column. You can easily spot the first two screws however the third screw is recessed way up inside a "hole" in the trim further towards the dash. The two halves should separate by pulling them apart.

Next, pull apart the bullet connector. You can wrap a wire around the bullet wire leading from the steering wheel. (See the above image in the thread.)

Disconnect the white connector that is on the right hand side. Leave the yellow connectors alone. In my case, the white connector only has one wire leading to it. It is red and blue. Insert your test wire into the connector. I used red stereo wire. Press on the horn. If it works now when it didn't, you know your clock spring is bad. If the your horn isn't working try the next step.

Bypassing the Clock Spring and Air Bag

Using the white connector you can run a wire directly from it. You should be able to just touch a metal part and the horn should go off. (Assuming you've checked the fuses, relay, etc.)

If it goes off then you'll know that the horn pad in the air bag isn't working.

Similarly, if you connect a wire to the clock spring end of the bullet connector it should go off assuming the clock spring is still good.

Hopefully this will help some folks.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

Excellent work j0hne, glad you got it sorted out...I wish I could have helped more, but you stopped replying...:P