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02 lancer wont start after installing silencer

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Old Jul 28, 2016, 02:05 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by CJBarker2
The ultimate goal is to convert it over to an Evo VII. I love the cars. However, looking around, if money is no object, I might consider cheating a little bit with engine swaps and whatnot. VW makes an 8-cylinder engine that's like two of the 4G63's mates at the crank with no turbo. If I can ever get ahold of one and build it, that's what I'd like to do. Just a theory right now.

In terms of real things to do to it right now, I'm getting the pieces together for a rebuild on the engine and transmission. Finding the parts is one thing, but figuring out how to do the job with the tools I have will be another. Just a little more research, I guess. Looking at extractor vents and a ram air scoop straight into the intake air box. I know that it might not look the best, or sound that way, at least, but I don't want or have the money for a turbo build. I just want a little more fun and something that no one else has.

Here's pictures of my ride. Not much to brag on or look at, she's a work in-progress.





That's my baby, right there.




Accessory outlet I put in while painting the dash trim




Don't mind the missing knob. I painted the dash trim red to match the steering wheel cover. Plan on changing up the paint scheme one of these days with a few red stripes.






Everything I'm running on so far. Bought my headers and wrap offline for less than $150 from different places. Works great for whatever money might have gone into them.
Just been reading back in this thread history lol. Man I love your accessory outlet wow I want to do that for sure when I get to upgrading the insides
Old Jul 28, 2016, 02:14 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by CJBarker2
Hey, before you do anything with the lights, try a tube of toothpaste. It's great for the headlights if they're oxidized, but if you do the tail lights, I'm not sure. For $1, it can't hurt your wallet too much. A can of clear coat after you scrub and clean them will keep them from turning colors.
Yes sir the tooth paste would work also, and maybe if mix the tooth paste and baking soda together would work great? I'm sure the tooth paste and baking soda are the 2 most cheap and amazing DIY head/tail light repairs haha
Old Jul 28, 2016, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by CJBarker2
Hey, I hate to burst your bubble Justin, but with the intake being so far back under the hood, it has to go over the engine, exhaust manifold, and/or the transmission before it gets to the intake. You were much better off in terms of a cold air intake when you were running your stock box. I haven't signed on in a while, but I've been keeping tabs on the thread. If you want to have an okay filter that's that far back, you'll have to use a short ram, which pulls as much air as possible rather than just pulling air a shorter distance. Hot air is bigger than cold air. When you increase vacuum hose length, decreasing diameter proportionally retains or improves the pull toward the intake. Shorter and wider pulls more air, longer and narrower pulls better air, making it a quantity over quality kind of thing. As far as that scotch-brite bit, you got the blue. The blue scotch-brite is plastic and has bigger holes in it. Get the green or (if you can find it) the dark red/brown. The weave and material is much finer than the stringy plastic and will do a much better job of keeping your car out of the junkyard.

On a brighter note, your taillights look immaculate. Did you strip them with soda or wth sandpaper and buffing compound to restore the original sheen?
Well honestly I started with the scotch pad but it didn't do a thing for removing the paint. I know I was gonna have to buy a strong chemical or use a hardcore scratch pad of some sort. So I just started using the steel wool with water and it really tore into the black paint but needed some real pressure still though. Honestly it removed the paint but did not leave any real noticable scratches. And whatever scratches were there was buffed out and smoothed over with the thick baking soda and water mixture. For the head lights, definitely going to use a lot of baking soda and buff for a good long while. Exited to see the results on that. It seems that if the mixture is more dry then it smoothes out the scratches better, and it seems if you go with more water after that then it polishes so nice. That's what I felt/saw happening with the tail lights
Old Jul 28, 2016, 02:29 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by Justinandcecil
Yes you are absolutely correct about that honeycomb bro, but you don't need me to tell you that lol. Yep a nimrod is a good description in one word/name. The previous owner/owners were not afraid to show their rebellion against all common sense. That's leading into my next project update of what I've had to do for a quick fix. I'll post about it soon guys, cheers
Yeah guys this was about the alternator tensioner btw, was so busy at the time haha
Old Jul 28, 2016, 02:51 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by CJBarker2
I don't know about a smell, maybe Crankswick can verify, but I know that when water meets oil, it makes a sludge that's about that color. My old Honda Accord had a coolant leak from a pinhole in the radiator, and when it splashed back on the motor from running down the road, it made that exact same color sludge. I would have gone back to check that spot for a crack somewhere, because IF it did crack on you, especially down in the threads of the bolt, changing the head gasket really won't do you any good at all. You'll have to replace the cylinder block or get it milled out, welded up, threaded, and pray to God that it holds. A block might be in your future, man. Junkyard will charge $70 for one, just to let you know. Man, I REALLY hope that that didn't happen to you. Maybe that's the one where the head gasket blew and the coolant leaked down into the threads. Still, man, I hope everything was fixed with the head gasket. I wonder if THAT's the reason you got the car so cheap. A little TLC and some busted knuckles will fix anything, though. Good luck, brother. Keep us posted. I kind of hope that this 3-man thread gets featured sometime. Really is a good learning curve you're having to work with.
Man you always give me a good reality check list lol and I appreciate that. A cracked block sounds a little scary. I wouldn't want to touch a new block with my money at this point...Meaning if the engine situation is that serious then I'll just go for another engine all together. I'm taking a stab at this head gasket fix because it's cheap and within my budget and pretty straight forward. It either is the gasket or not. If it is then it'll get fixed I'm sure. If it isn't then I'm done with this engine. I would not have it towed again to a shop even if it's one I trust. The towing plus diagnostic plus whatever the fix is just doesn't sound comforting at this point. If this Lancer gets towed back to a shop again it'll be to another engine installed hehehe. Actually that too I would try to do myself but I don't have the tools or time for it honestly. So since my wife will be coming soon I need to make some fast and solid decisions now about the Lancer situation. It's either this gasket fix a success or get another engine so I can move on with this project
Old Jul 28, 2016, 02:55 PM
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Guys I got a meeting to go to , when I get back I got some update pics to share and some questins for consideration!
Old Jul 28, 2016, 09:47 PM
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This is after a thorough cleaning and removal of dirt grease and grime guys inside the piston wells and ontop the gasket area




I used brake cleaner and loads of paper towels and rags. And I used...yep you guessed it lol, I used a blue scotch pad to clean and buff the gasket area to a smooth shine. I gotta tell yeah the steel wool and scotch pads have really been coming in handy for me lately for cleaning tasks hehehe
Old Jul 28, 2016, 09:49 PM
  #143  
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By the way guys after this cleaning I did indeed check for cracks around the bolt holes but nothing I could find
Old Jul 28, 2016, 09:56 PM
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This is the old head gasket, I could not find any specific faults, but the whole gasket looks fried and defected and could have a fault anywhere




It certainly looks like it could be the culprit
Old Jul 28, 2016, 10:02 PM
  #145  
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Ok guys so I called the local Advance Auto parts and their price for the head gasket is a wopping $50. They didn't have it in stock so he asked if I wanted him to check the other local stores and I said NO THANK YOU SIR! lol. Because I already knew they are cheaper online. I knew they went for around $20, but I got an even better deal.
Old Jul 28, 2016, 10:08 PM
  #146  
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It ships from California and the seller has a 100% positive customer feed back. And did I mention free shipping? Nice. Ok so I made the purchase guys today, the company processed my order today and was shipped out same day today via Fedex and I already got my tracking nunber (wow fast service) and the estimated delivery on the email is August 3.
Old Jul 28, 2016, 10:13 PM
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Ok so my question is guys, now that the block is prept and ready for the new gasket should I use a liquid gasket sealer also for added protection? what are your thoughts? Thanks
Old Jul 28, 2016, 10:16 PM
  #148  
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Oh and BTW in case you're wondering yes a made a shield cover to protect all my cleaning and prep work until time to install the new gasket


Old Jul 29, 2016, 09:31 PM
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I have never heard of using silicone gasket on the head, and it is probably for several reasons such as the fact that the sealant would press over into the cylinders and oil/water channels, which could cause trouble for you later on. The oil pump, for instance, CANNOT handle any solids whatsoever because of the type of pump that it is. I believe that the water pump is a blade-type, not a gerotor. Solids in the cylinders is a bad idea for obvious reasons.
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Old Jul 29, 2016, 09:39 PM
  #150  
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You can pickup half gallon of pure Acetone for cleaning. It will be more effective and cheaper than Brake cleaner.

I agree with CJBarker2, do not use any liquid gasket maker for the head gasket.
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