05 MR

So I used my new Motive pressure bleeder yesterday. The instructions that are included are weak. I've got a few questions/observations and wanted to see if anyone else can give me some clarification.

Some of this is hard to explain, but I'll try. To start, the master
cylinder is clearly not air tight (is it?). Regardless of brake fluid level
(min-max), some air remains on top. Once I put the pressure bleeder cap on
top and pressurize to 10-15 psi, am I forcing air into the system (seems
so)? Is there a way for the air to escape so only new fluid is forced into
the line (doesn't look like it)? I also notice that after pressurizing, air
pockets remain in the 6 feet of hose that connects the pressure tank to the
master cylinder cap. The reason I'm asking is this. After opening the
bleeder valves in the correct order (according to the Joe250 post-https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/showthread.php?t=87578), I
was getting lots of air bubbles. The "half-***" instructions included tell
you to bleed until the bubbles stop. This is exactly what I did. This long
stream of bubbles occurred at every valve. This may all be normal, but I'm
trying to get a clear understanding on how this pressure system works. If
air is being forced into the system with the new brake fluid, then a long
bleed time pushing lots of new fluid (and all the bubbles) through the
system seems to be the way to go. I'm not a big fan of seeing air bubbles
(ever), so this flow of bubbles makes me a little nervous. I think what it
comes down to is this; am I bleeding long enough to get all the bubbles out?
On a product this important, real (detailed) instructions would be so nice.
To conclude, I took her out last night for a drive and the pedal felt
"solid". Probably firmer than any of my previous 2-man bleed operations. Thanks for any feedback you may have.

marksae

iTrader: (12)

I had a weird experience w/ my Motive bleeder as well. I was getting a long stream of bubbles coming out of the bleeder and couldn't figure out why. The bubbles just would not stop. So I closed the bleeder, but found the bubbles to persist until I moved the line around a little. After reopening the bleeder, the bubbles stopped. So air must have been entering the bleeder tube from around the nipple.

WarmPepsi

iTrader: (35)

yeah, if you have the wrong size line (on the bleeder end), you'll get bubbles on that end. If you close the valve, and are getting bubbles still, thats a key sign

If you notice, fluid goes up to the cap, regardless of where the pump is sitting, and the level of fluid in the reservoir doesn't move.

05 MR

Called Motive this morning and clarified a few things. Sounds like my procedure was just fine. The 6-foot line from the tank to the master cylinder and the top of the master cylinder itself both hold air. This air is suspended in the pressurized system and only brake fluid flows into the master cylinder. Bottom line; it looks like you may by pushing air into the system, but your not.
I don't think I had the wrong size line on the bleeder end, but the bubbles may still be related (better seal). My catch tank is this: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/long55.htm
I actually went for part # 45202. It's a single bottle with a Y attachment for 2 lines. You can hook the two lines to both bleeder valves and bleed in the correct order, saving a little time.

WarmPepsi

iTrader: (35)

haha, my bleeder attachment is line from home depot with a water bottle on the end.

Scawt

iTrader: (4)

lol, pretty much the same for me, I'm using a aquarium hose with a Coke bottle attached to it. All I did was drill a hole in the cap for the hose to go in. I'm still doing two man brake bleeding before track days, but I would like to get a pressurized one. My wife is getting tired of pumping the pedal in the garage

nils

iTrader: (56)

I use old snapple bottles

WarmPepsi

iTrader: (35)

honestly, i use liquor bottles, but i didn't wanna sound like an alkie.

Got an evo owner that owns a liquor store like 2 miles from my house, and i stop in every so often and take a half dozen empties from him.

I'd never manually bled til maybe a month ago. I'd always used the bleeder. Had to manually bleed a 5 series bmw (his evo dropped a valve in the cosworth head ), was drivin the wife's car

redvolution

iTrader: (3)

I prefer to suck the fluid out using the griots garage hand pump tool. i get the same problem as marksae, bubbles are introduced around the tube/nipple interface. not really a big deal, just means you can't tell anything about the old fluid coming out.