MrAWD

Finally, I have found replacement for OEM stock rotor rings. For all of the others that have to use stock size/type replacement (like those that race in SCCA B-Street class), here is a solution that is cheaper than a single one from the dealer:


Spec for building the same one are located

Construct

iTrader: (4)

I think you forgot to include the information about where to buy one and how much it costs.

MrAWD

Well, these are custom made units and have no labeling as "for EVO X" thing on them. You would need all of the numbers for it to be made or to send your old one so it can be measured. Place that made then is Coleman Racing.

I have 4 of them right now and spent so far close to $800 for everything. I still have to figure out what to do for the fasteners and whether old ones are reusable in any way or get a new set from somewhere. Any suggestions on this subject will be welcomed!

Fedja

apex electric

I had Coleman make heavy iron 2 piece rotors for my VIII years ago. They were completely up to the task for NASA races. The stock calipers were not.

honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

RB also has oem replacent rotor rings and hardware.

http://www.racingbrake.com/Rotor-Rin...406-04-311.htm

MrAWD

If it wasn't for this part:
RB rotor ring is made to 348mm (13.7") vs. OE 350mm (13.8").
they would qualify - but without the lip, they don't


Fedja

MrAWD

On the same subject I have been looking for the answers around, but I can't find one. I have to mount these new rings and it is the question of the fasteners. Mitsubishi doesn't sell them separately, so no luck there. Several of the brake shops have kits. But, stock ones that I took off look pretty darn good. They had around 15 lb of torque on them before being removed and they are made of harden steel as well. Nuts seem to be pressure locked (kind of like exhaust manifold nuts) and if I would replace those, because they would not lock any more (I am just guessing here), with some other locking nuts of the same type and strength, would I be able to reuse the bolts?

Either way, if someone has some info to share on this, it would be appreciated.

Thanks!


Fedja

Peter Tiebout

iTrader: (3)

Mclaren Style Fasteners http://www.racingbrake.com/McLaren-T...ware-p/ml1.htm

MrAWD

Thanks for the link! But, this link includes I pieces, which we don't have on stock OEM rotors, so we should use cheaper version instead.

This one that is: http://www.racingbrake.com/McLaren-T...re-p/ml1-e.htm

Right?

Fedja

MrAWD

OEM rotors are non directional, but my new ones are! The fins between the sides curve more to one side, but I am in a dark regarding to which side is the right and which is left. Anyone able to give suggestion on this?

Thanks

Fedja

MrAWD

I guess this would do it: http://www.zeckhausen.com/how_to_pro...all_rotors.htm

MrAWD

Well, I tried to see how new rotor fits on the OEM center pieces and that is when I realized that OEM also has those "I" inserts in there. A little bit you learn every day...no wonder that guy from Racing Brake sounded puzzled when I said I don't have them on my car...

Fedja

MrAWD

Since this is an important part that was originally missing from the post, here is the data required for you to build the same set from the Coleman Racing guys:


Fedja

Hiboost

iTrader: (9)

Seems like a ton of effort to go through but if your racing class cares about going 2mm smaller diameter then it's what you have to do. LOL.

I just noticed that they are 1.8 lbs lighter as well, they also list fastening hardware on that page and state you can re-use the old stuff if it's not damaged.

MrAWD

The great thing at the end is that this way is no more expensive that other options (might be even cheaper). So, once the first guy goes through all this, it will be easier for the others. Well, as long as you are not the first guy!

I did get new bolts, but will reuse the boxy pieces at least this time. I guess those bolts get lot of heat cycles and it is really hard to know if one can be reused or not, so I opted for safer version.