psushoe

iTrader: (8)

You use 110 ft-lbs dry or with a lubricant? I have moly on mine and use 85 ft-lbs. Not sure where 85 came from... just been doing it that way for years.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I also torque mine to 85 with antiseize applied every few months. I've actually never had a wheel stud break or back off on me but I never tighten fully with a gun. Both old car (talon) and Evo have always been on OEM studs though the Evo front has bolt on 20mm spacers.

Ill probably switch that to a slip on spacer soon with extended studs but hard to make a change when its been historically reliable for me.

griceiv

iTrader: (2)

dry. not that I think it matters as a large part of the friction comes from the lugnut conical face seating against the wheel unlike when you have a regular bolt/nut/washer setup.

MrAWD

Very surprised that you manage to use OEM studs for your Talon. I have broken/stripped/damaged so many of those on my 2G that ARP is only way to go after that...

RJones

iTrader: (5)

Yeah I've since gone to used OEM axles. I'm 100% positive that the quality of those axles was the issue. It was almost an axle per event last year. I haven't run the car again since I got the "new" axles to be able to tell if there's any improvement though.

Creatre

Hey guys,

I just bought a hpde prepped car and looking to do some autocross this season in it. I believe I fall into SM, just wanted to post up the mod list and see if I could get a confirmation. Also any ideas on how to be more competitive.

A few changes I'm going to make:
- I'm going to weld in a 6 point cage. Is this sm legal?
- I'm going to put in 12k/12k springs for the coilovers.
- Possibly wider wheels/tires.

Suspension:
Ohlins DFV Coilovers, 8k front 10k rear springs corner balanced
Energy Suspension Master Bushing Kit
Whiteline Rear Bump Steer Kit
Whiteline Roll Center Correction Kit
Perrin rear end links

Drivetrain:
Exedy Twin HD clutch
Shep trans with all new gears and synchros
Shifter cable bushing
Blox front motor mount

Brakes:
Goodridge stainless steel brake lines
Binary 2" brake duct kit
Hawk HT10 front, HP+ rear
Motul RBF600 fluid
Centric blank rotors

Engine:
Stock turbo with 10.5 hotside
HKS 272 cams
Buschur catback
Megan downpipe
Test pipe
Buschur ported stock exhaust manifold
O2 housing
Tuned for 24psi
Hallman MBC
Forge 18psi wastegate
ETS intake
ETS 3" intercooler
ETS lower and short route upper intercooler pipes
ETS mini battery tray and mini battery
APR head studs
Valve job: Valves refaced, new seals, pressure & vacuum tested, head decked
AC delete
EGR delete
Walbro 255 fuel pump

Interior:
Gutted except dash and front door panels
Autopower 4pt roll bar with FIA padding and additional base plates
OMP RS-PT driver’s seat and OMP TRS passenger seat
GForce 6pt camlock harnesses
AutoMeter boost gauge
Innovate LC1 wideband with new sensor
ProSport Premium 60mm gauges (oil temp, oil pressure and EGT)
Radio relocation
AllView wide rear view mirror

Exterior:
Enkei RPF-1 17x8.5 +30 wheels with 255/40/17 Nitto NT01s
Muteki SR48 lugs, replaced all OEM studs
JDM Evo7 taillights
JDM Evo 8 MR headlights with yellow fogs
Custom fabricated front tow hook
eBay vortex generator

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Gutted interior and lack of restrictor put you in XP. You need all interior panels in place and carpet in SM. 6 point cage is SM legal, just don't gusset it to the chassis other than mount points or pass through the firewall on your forward bars.

Do you have your crash beams still? With a gutted interior I would guess those could have been tossed for weight, but they're also required in SM.

Creatre

What do you mean by restrictor?

Would the next class up be FP or XP?

psushoe

iTrader: (8)

FP requires running a restrictor plate in the intake. XP does not, so you could move to FP if you added the appropriate sized orifice.

An all out autox car is not going to be track friendly and vice versa. The safety equipment required for track is added weight for autox, and I would not feel safe tracking my non-caged SM car. You have to decide what is your current target, and realize the compromise for the other.

As for what to do to be more competitive... seat time. :-)

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

FP requires a restrictor place at a specific distance from the turbo inlet. I don't recall the size, but its pretty tiny.

Creatre

Thanks guys for the input. I think I'm gonna try to put the couple of pieces of interior I need back for SM so I can run SM a few times this year. Track is obviously the priority, but it is nice just to drive 15 minutes and get some autocross in every few weekends.

RJones

iTrader: (5)

It used to be 46mm, but something makes me want to say it got reduced even farther, to like 38 or 40mm.

Creatre

Does anyone have exact specifics for interior parts needed? The rules are very vague on this. If I have all door panels, carpet, dash, heat, aftermarket front seats, is that enough? (so essentially rear seats and everything in the trunk are gone). Is this the correct list of all that is required?

Headlights (high and low beam)
Turn signals, front and rear
Brake Lights
Heater
Windshield wiper/washer (single wiper conversions OK)
Horn
Parking Brake
Interior Door Panels/Garnish
Side Window Raise/Lower Mechanism
License Plate
Reverse Lights

Also, I'm currently running NT01, do I need to switch to a higher treadware tire?

griceiv

iTrader: (2)

the interior needs to be stock, except for what they allow you to change. in SM you can remove the rear seats, you can replace the front seats, and you can change seatbelts/harnesses. If you install a roll bar/cage you can trim the interior panels to provide clearance for the cage structure, but not more than that.

RJones

iTrader: (5)

Everything GriceIV said, but you can remove the radio and speakers and the rear wiper.

As far as tires, you'll want something with lower treadwear than NT01s actually. Look at Hoosier A6s. The old me would have suggested BFG R1S's, but having been to Lincoln on them, I know not to make that mistake again.