killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

figured id ask here since its a track focused question.

whats everyone running? my metal stocker has been good, but seemed to be acting a little funky towards the end of last season. I run 24-26psi on the stock turbo, and will be going bigger eventually so id like to buy once.

overall i want the best driveability in track situations. I was pretty set on the QR (still on maf) but there seems to be a large group against the tial for some possibly unsubstantiated reason. the synapse always seem to have great reviews, and evo guys seem to love it with the upgraded spring from aby@mil.spec. im actually not even sure if the QR will fit with my perrin intake since its a pretty tight fit/has the stocker touching the manifold heat shield.

are there any good options im missing?

Ian0611

iTrader: (41)

I ran a Synapse on my old Evo and my current Evo had a Tial Q (speed density) on it when I bought it. Personally, I thought driveability was much better on the Synapse than on the Tial. The Tial gave me a lot more flutter. FWIW, I'm currently running a crushed IX DV (VTA) and it's been far better at part throttle than either the Synapse or the Tial. The IX DV just has a way of being able to bleed off air smoothly when letting off at part throttle that neither the Tial or Synapse is able to accomplish. Both of those, it seems like it's either open or closed, there's no in between. This caused my cars to feel jerky at part throttle and also gave me a lot of flutter, but the issue definitely seemed to be worse with the Tial.

Depending on how big you plan on going I would stick with the stock DV. But if you plan on going over 30psi, you'll definitely have to upgrade, in which case, the Synapse would be my vote. There may be ways to get the Tial to behave better (i.e. swapping springs) but I never bothered experimenting after I swapped it out because the crushed IX DV gave me what I was looking for on my setup.

Robevo RS

iTrader: (16)

i have a Tial, since they stopped making the APS dual. But i never run higher psi even with spikes 23-24.
Also i am on after market ECU and map , no MAF.

AreSTG

iTrader: (4)

I love tial. But after a few years my qr went bad. It got side loaded on the piston since the air all escapes in one spot.

Wad great while it worked, and I replaced it with a tial q

High_PSI

iTrader: (50)

I run the synapse synchronic blow off valve, it's AMAZING!!!! It is better than stock!!!! It is also adjustable. It opens under Any positive pressure. Even 1 PSI so drivability is better than stock. It also holds up to 50PSI but I would imagine that a crazy drag car would benefit more from a heavy spring tile which does not work well with boost pressures under 20PSI.

If you have a 40R and running 1000WHP, yeah dual tial with a heavy spring. I run a red and 30PSI and I have yet to have any issues with flutter or surge. It's the best BOV I have ever run period plus it recirculates for us MAF users. Tials are really good and will hold a ton of boost but always seem to flutter under lighter boost.

GTABurnout

iTrader: (1)

I run an APS. They usually need rebuilds every few months but thats simple to do. I am still on recirc so I might change it up if I go Speed Density which my tuner has been asking me to do for a year now lol...

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

has anyone ever seen any data collected of the tial flutter? ive heard it, but i have never been able to figure it if its actually bad. in theory i hsould be making smoothe enough throttle inputs to not have to worry about fluttering unless its doing it in a condition like holding the car part throttle for a long sweeper or something (might even alert me to doing dumb things with the gas pedal ).

theres a good possibility i will be off maf soon also, but im not sure that will really effect my decision, as i still want to stay recirc

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Im partial to stock BOV with old school "Dejon stop leak kit". Holds as much pressure as any other BOV (more in many cases) and acts as stock at part throttle. Only issue could be not recirculating enough which I don't have an issue for.

Haven't been in a car with aftermarket BOV that doesn't suck at going full/heavy throttle to lighter throttle without dumping all pressure and bucking or jerking.

High_PSI

iTrader: (50)

You have to rebuild an APS every few months? WTF is that $HIT? The Tial will flutter with a heavy spring and flutter with a heavy spring. It holds mega boost and only opens when it's supposed to, it's amazing idk how they haven't had parades in their honor yet.

honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

i have Tial Q vta with SD. love it. it's very important to not run too stiff of a spring for your boost level. i was getting a lot of mid throttle flutter with stiff spring. was so hard to drive the car on track in part throttle condition. get softer spring and it was 300% better. same on my friends car.

and why haven't you convert to SD yet. its so easy now and it's not like you daily drive your car.

I won't need a Bov after I go efr

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

what spring have you been running?

i havent gone sd yet because im waiting for the day im fully happy with my maf tune...and since i just walked outta the garage from putting in injectors and a pump...it may be awhile.


now i have to try and figure out how to tune these 1050sp's that no one seems to have a baseline for...

Name User

iTrader: (1)

Personally I love my Synapse DV because I can adjust it to be exactly how I want it.

Currently I'm in heaven because at low boost I can get all the stupid idiot flutter choo-choo-choo noises, but above 10PSI I get an instant release of PSHHH.

It's just so perfect. I can be a dirty ricer all I want without sacrificing anything.

FilthyEvo

iTrader: (3)

Nate, if you want a Tial QR, I'm selling mine. Have a few springs to go with it.

I ran all last year with a stiffer spring than I needed, and I had to drive around the flutter. Would always forget to change it; would've been nice to be able to go part throttle. ��

honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

only the weak drive part throttle. pros drive flat out.

GTABurnout

iTrader: (1)

Well not every few mouths. I have rebuilt mine each once in 4 years. So basically they get sticky and need to be relubed. Drive like stock recirc and hold boost. for me it takes 5 mins to rebuild one with some new motor oil on the orings.