Grimgrak

iTrader: (3)

Not a CEL sorry but the actual oil light in red with the little dripper drop thingy. It has however stopped now after driving it for a day or two.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

That makes way more sense. Assuming nothing serious, since it went away after a while.. which is kinda weird too.
Sounds like it's good to go now, though.
p.s. ***** of steel, driving it with the oil light on :P

honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

that wouldn't be good if you're getting oil starvation at decel. some of the highest g force on track is from braking

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

Are your RPM's dipping into semi-stall state (>800) when the light comes on?

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

I know my oil pressure sensor on the back side of the block, under intake manifold failed. Would come on when I was idling. Its a semi known issue. I replaced mine with 20k on the car. No more light.

Maybe not the case here but certainly could be.

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

I definitely would have stopped driving in whatever way was causing the oil pressure indicator to light up. Strange it would stop after a day.

Grimgrak

iTrader: (3)

Well it wasn't exactly steady on, when i slow down to roll up to a speed bump it would blip for half a second. I too thought it was the idle dipping which it might have been but, the idle still dips and the light hasn't come on under light braking any further.
Again I want to mention this only happened first day after install on LIGHT decel the kinda braking you'd never use on a track day. Setting off the abs with all 4 under braking did not cause the light to come on at all what so ever.

RJones

iTrader: (5)

It could be the sending unit failing. I had that issue on my autox car at decel and idle (light would flicker, and over time just started staying on). I had an oil pressure gauge, so I wasn't concerned, but eventually I replaced it and the issue went away.

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

Same here.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Me too. Very common, with all that vibration.

Nimpoc

iTrader: (17)

Is the base of the pan strong enough to jack up the motor? I typically lift the engine by the pan when taking off the passenger side motor mount / doing a timing belt job.

The stock 8 pan with the skid plate is super solid and never changed shape with use like this.

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

I wouldn't go raw with a jack, we use a 2x6 or 4x4 in place of the oem "skid pad" to spread the load.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Our skid plates are gone. The sheet metal on my pan is plenty strong to use a block of wood + jack, I'm the RaceFab is the same. I'd never use a jack straight on the pan, even with a skid plate, though. Like Balrok said, I've always used a block of wood.

Nimpoc

iTrader: (17)

Yeah, sorry, assuming a wood / rubber damper in there to keep the teeth from biting...

Another kinda related question since Balrok / Racefab endorsed the Tomei slicer:
Does anyone have any experience with http://www.crank-scrapers.com/Mitsubishi_g63b_4g63.html
They appear to have a more detailed scraper design, but no baffle. I'm trying to decide between the two. Effectively the same price. Quality of the Tomei materials looks better. Any input is welcome.

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

One can assume because that's all they make that it'd be built accurately, but that's still a strong assumption to pin against the known ones in such a critical area. And no baffle as you said.