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I assumed since they didn't mention tire width, just the wheel, that the wheel itself was making contact. i wouldn't mind (though still not ideal, but they're 255s that don't run wide) if the tire were making contact, but the wheel is a different story. I'm assuming 10mm clearance and 0 toe static should be okay though.
Strange. I was running the same wheels, with the same tires (17x9.5+38 nt+m's with 255/40/17 nt01's) for a couple years during HPDE/TT and I was a good .6" away from the oem arm, no spacers front or rear. That was on Robi's original setup even before hard bearings so the back wagged and flexed on hard breaking. When I went to 18x9.5 +40 nt03's I couldn't run much more then 10.7" tires even with a 5mm spacer. Then I got RT arms and that made it lots better. Buuut then I decided to try 295's - but they hit the shock/spring before the touched the arm.
Its just a polyurethane bushing up front, same one we use for offroad car suspension, worked out perfectly since the OEM arm's bushing is a "standard" width, we didn't have to make anything custom there except drilling the sleeve to accept the 14mm bolt. And a QA1 threaded ball joint from speedway. Tube is 1"x.120 4130. Solid works says it weight 2.3lbs. We will weigh it compared to stock. Should be close, or a touch lighter.
Originally Posted by V.8MR
Nice work!
Thanks!
These will be available for purchase once they are tested. Need to verify fitment with the high offset/wide wheels too.
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Mar 8, 2017 at 01:52 PM.
I used a spherical joint on the front as the trailing arm travels in/out towards the center of the car during suspension travel. On a polyurethane bushing, that movement will create a bit of stiction.
I've got stiction after going all WL polly. Really wish there was an off the shelf delrin kit for this car for most/all of the bushings that arent spherical.
I used a spherical joint on the front as the trailing arm travels in/out towards the center of the car during suspension travel. On a polyurethane bushing, that movement will create a bit of stiction.
We'll see how it works. The whiteline poly bushing I have in the stock trailing arm was fine. We can always modify for a spherical. This was just quick and easy to get it done for an upcoming track day.
We could also spin the bushing out of delrin on the lathe, but that could actually bind.
So I'm not the only one seeing this happen on track? There's no obvious failure mode. Nothing clearly deflects when I push and pull while on jackstands. All the bushings are stock with the exception of the front trailing link bushing (ES). Seems like there should be plenty of clearance, but clearly something is moving.
Rear: 17x9.5 +38 RPF01 w/o spacer, 255/40 Maxxis RC1
-2deg camber, 0 toe, no fender mods, no fender rubbing
Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
They're saying it won't fit because they won't work with the OEM wheels because they're comical seat, not mag seat. They will work with the Weds though.
See technical drawing for reference. The smaller diameter of the 17" wheels puts the lip where the control arm is closer to it. This is rally only an issue with the 10" wide wheel.
So I'm not the only one seeing this happen on track? There's no obvious failure mode. Nothing clearly deflects when I push and pull while on jackstands. All the bushings are stock with the exception of the front trailing link bushing (ES). Seems like there should be plenty of clearance, but clearly something is moving.
Rear: 17x9.5 +38 RPF01 w/o spacer, 255/40 Maxxis RC1
-2deg camber, 0 toe, no fender mods, no fender rubbing
thought it was only with the 18s. I can see how it would happen with the rpf1s, my weds are a tiny bit further out away from the inside. and I run -1/32nds of toe out in the rear
So I'm not the only one seeing this happen on track? There's no obvious failure mode. Nothing clearly deflects when I push and pull while on jackstands. All the bushings are stock with the exception of the front trailing link bushing (ES). Seems like there should be plenty of clearance, but clearly something is moving.
Rear: 17x9.5 +38 RPF01 w/o spacer, 255/40 Maxxis RC1
-2deg camber, 0 toe, no fender mods, no fender rubbing
I have this as well with 17x9.5 rpf1's +38 with 255 NT01's. My cheap fix action is going to be a 5-10mm spacer. A local guy runs 15mm spacer with the same set up with no rubbing, but has the fender cut instead of rolled, and only autocrosses.
thought it was only with the 18s. I can see how it would happen with the rpf1s, my weds are a tiny bit further out away from the inside. and I run -1/32nds of toe out in the rear
You have it the flipped bud! The shape of the 18's is better for rear fitment with the trailing arm. Somebody had an amazing napkin drawing that explained it perfectly...
My 17x9.5 +38 NTO3s also rubbed. My 18x10.5 +30 NT03s dont.
You have it the flipped bud! The shape of the 18's is better for rear fitment with the trailing arm. Somebody had an amazing napkin drawing that explained it perfectly...
My 17x9.5 +38 NTO3s also rubbed. My 18x10.5 +30 NT03s dont.
odd. thought LGTD said it was the other way around, which I didn't understand either. once things dry up i'll get under the car and see how the +32s on my car fared. oh well.
Feb 17, 2017, 11:32 AM
