Notices
Motor Sports If you like rallying, road racing, autoxing, or track events, then this is the spot for you.

Combating Inside Rear Tire Lift...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 11, 2004, 08:14 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
metaphysical's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Penn State University
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Combating Inside Rear Tire Lift...

At my last autocross, I was lifting my rear inside tire during hard turning. Now, the first question, is this a bad thing? (Some of the fastest cars there lifted their inside rear) How can I combat this if it is a bad thing (Which I would imagine it is)? I want to keep the car oversteering, but would like to get as much traction as possible.
(And I'll be purchasing RRE JIC setup this week also, how much will that make a difference with tire lift)

My car:
Progress 25mm rear sway bar set on full stiff
Tein S-Tech
Camber -1.8 Front -1.5 Rear
Toe 0
Old Jul 11, 2004, 08:21 PM
  #2  
Evolving Member
iTrader: (6)
 
whitet777's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Kohler, WI
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have noticed that rear wheel lift goes up with increased rear swaybar stiffness. You could back off from full stiff. I also noticed my rear wheel lift has gone down with increasing the front stiffness some, but at the expense of a little bit more understeer (not much). I did this with the front swaybar modification. Logic would also suggest that stiffer springs all around would help, but I haven't noticed my Tanabe GF210's helping much.

I would also say that rear wheel lift isn't that bad of a thing. I have also seen it on many very expensive cars that do very well autocrossing.

I have heard that coilover's will help with wheel lifting, but I can't afford that.
Old Jul 12, 2004, 05:47 AM
  #3  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (23)
 
nothere's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Bellevue. WA
Posts: 2,680
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
hey, the dog going to the bathroom look is very cool. don't fight it
Old Jul 12, 2004, 09:40 AM
  #4  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
 
992gnt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Here's mine lifting on the racetrack at around 50 mph. Didn't seem to slow me down much. I have the Tanabe's, and the Progress rear bar. Car was very neutral - even with 1 wheel in the air.

Old Jul 12, 2004, 09:47 AM
  #5  
Evolving Member
iTrader: (6)
 
whitet777's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Kohler, WI
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I would lift my inside 5 to 6" on a tight autocross track. Car still felt neutral though and cornered very well.
Old Jul 12, 2004, 11:48 AM
  #6  
Evolved Member
 
erioshi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I expect the the RRE JICs will stop your wheel lift. There is one track that I run on that with the stock suspension I was always lifting the inside rear wheel. After I installed my JICs both rear tires stayed planted.
Old Jul 12, 2004, 11:50 AM
  #7  
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
metaphysical's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Penn State University
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Good to hear! I don't want to create understeer to compensate for the rear wheel lift.
Old Jul 12, 2004, 11:55 AM
  #8  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
 
chrisw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Santa Cruz
Posts: 2,218
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
coilovers will reduce the wheel lift, but not totally cure it.
Old Jul 12, 2004, 09:38 PM
  #9  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
 
jbrennen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think that all 3 Evos running at the Oscoda ProSolo this past weekend were lifting the inside rear wheel. All of them are running upgraded suspensions -- stiffer springs, etc. -- which reduce the lift but don't eliminate it.

Personally, I haven't found that lifting the inside rear tire is causing problems for autoX.

With regard to sway bars, either a smaller/softer rear bar or a bigger/stiffer front bar will decrease the ability of the inside rear tire to lift. Either change would also tend to cause understeer. I'd say go for a handling balance that works for you rather than trying to keep the tire on the ground.
Old Jul 13, 2004, 04:18 AM
  #10  
Evolving Member
 
jwtodd60's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Virginia
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I went to a bigger front bar (25mm Cusco + Cusco adjustable bracket set to 116%), not so much to keep the rear tires on the ground, but to try to minimize the beating the outside shoulder of the front tires were taking. Frankly, I don't think that it made a big difference, but it is one of the few mods allowed in A Stock, so there it is. If you look at these pics, you will see I'm still getting plenty of inside rear lift:

http://www.photoreflect.com/scripts/...um=0&adjust=-1

http://www.photoreflect.com/scripts/...um=0&adjust=-1

(I did buy the CD with these photos, but I don't have it with me)

JW
Old Jul 14, 2004, 04:58 PM
  #11  
Evolving Member
iTrader: (4)
 
93esp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Inside rear tire lift is not an ideal situation. On this car it's caused from a combination of roll axis angle, lack of rear suspension droop travel, and excessive body roll. Upgraded suspension will not cure the problem by itself and the additional degrees of freedom can actually make it worse. At the Oscoda pro I was actually pulling both inside wheels off the ground.

Eric
Old Jul 14, 2004, 06:18 PM
  #12  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
 
jbrennen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 93esp
Inside rear tire lift is not an ideal situation. On this car it's caused from a combination of roll axis angle, lack of rear suspension droop travel, and excessive body roll. Upgraded suspension will not cure the problem by itself and the additional degrees of freedom can actually make it worse. At the Oscoda pro I was actually pulling both inside wheels off the ground.
Yes, I agree. It's not the ideal situation. But it may be better than some of the alternatives.

Under very hard cornering -- but not hard enough to lift the inside tire -- the body of the car leans and the dynamic camber of the rear tires changes. In particular, assuming that you have an appropriate alignment for autoX, the outside rear tire has a much larger and flatter contact patch than the inside rear tire. The inside rear tire might have only the inside inch or so of the tire actually touching the ground. Transferring weight away from a camber challenged tire to a tire which is in its camber sweet spot is not necessarily a bad thing.

Visible lift of a tire is certainly just wasted energy. But making large suspension changes in order to keep that inside rear tire planted has to be done very carefully, as you will likely compromise other aspects of the car's handling.
Old Jul 14, 2004, 09:32 PM
  #13  
Moderator
Bomb Squad Unit #02
iTrader: (14)
 
urbanknight's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 4,090
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by jwtodd60
I went to a bigger front bar
I think that's a good idea. Contrary to my former belief that such would cause understeer, a hot topic on sccaforums.com suggests that it will reduce body roll, keeping the front tires firmly planted, while keeping some of the weight transfer off the front. I'm only lifting maybe 3" on my inner rear in my FWD, but after I get a higher spring rate, I might be upgrading the front bushings and maybe the bar myself.
Old Jul 14, 2004, 09:46 PM
  #14  
Evolving Member
 
ColinL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Looks like I'm late, you guys have it all covered.

Anyway, I agree with UrbanKnight-- a larger front bar will not necessarily increase understeer. Pictures of your car under heavy cornering will tell you if there is still significant body roll-- if so, then putting on a bigger front bar could help that a lot, by keeping more of the outside tire in contact with the road.

A bigger front bar, or smaller rear, is definitely the correct first step to keeping the inside rear tire on the ground. BOTH tires off the ground on the inside sounds a lot like too much bodyroll and ride height for the traction available-- back when people were running them, I used to see Stock class Golfs doing that pretty often. Scary.

I personally think the Evo's stock f/r balance is pretty neutral, very neutral compared to the STi's moderate understeer. For whomever had a big rear bar and stock front, I'd definitely suggest a bigger front bar, and yes adjustable would be really nice.
Old Jul 15, 2004, 10:22 AM
  #15  
Evolving Member
iTrader: (4)
 
93esp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by jbrennen
Yes, I agree. It's not the ideal situation. But it may be better than some of the alternatives.

Under very hard cornering -- but not hard enough to lift the inside tire -- the body of the car leans and the dynamic camber of the rear tires changes. In particular, assuming that you have an appropriate alignment for autoX, the outside rear tire has a much larger and flatter contact patch than the inside rear tire. The inside rear tire might have only the inside inch or so of the tire actually touching the ground. Transferring weight away from a camber challenged tire to a tire which is in its camber sweet spot is not necessarily a bad thing.

Visible lift of a tire is certainly just wasted energy. But making large suspension changes in order to keep that inside rear tire planted has to be done very carefully, as you will likely compromise other aspects of the car's handling.
Most Evo's I have seen do not pull the inside rear tire off the ground at the limits of cornering. If you watch most of these cars they will pull the inside rear off the ground on turn-in which indicates a sharply declined roll axis with insufficient front roll stiffness and insufficient front track width. When the inside rear is jerked off the ground the outside front is carrying more weight than it should and is operating at a less than ideal camber angle. The wheel lift problem can be corrected without negative tradeoffs it's just a matter of finding the correct combination.

Eric


Quick Reply: Combating Inside Rear Tire Lift...



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:26 PM.