Outlander Sport Noises - How to : Sound dampen
#1
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Outlander Sport Noises - How to : Sound dampen
I want to start another thread specifically focused on the our Outlander Sports in regards to noises from the stock factory configuration and what possibly can be done to improve them with sound damping materials, like Dynamat and/or other similar products.
It started from this thread, LINK:
THAT... apparently are words of experience.
I've noticed that our O.Sports are quite a bit noisier than other vehicles I have owned in the pass. The very least, you would imagine with our O.S having a coefficient of drag of .33(ish) that there would be much less audible wind noises.
So, has anyone already tried to address the noise problem(s)?
It started from this thread, LINK:
I've noticed that our O.Sports are quite a bit noisier than other vehicles I have owned in the pass. The very least, you would imagine with our O.S having a coefficient of drag of .33(ish) that there would be much less audible wind noises.
So, has anyone already tried to address the noise problem(s)?
Last edited by mRVRsport; Jun 11, 2013 at 01:30 PM.
#3
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Regarding the engine noise... it sounds fine actually.
The CVT is another story. In fact, I could swear it sounded noisier/LOUDER when we first got it out on the initial test drive (with only 25 miles on the ODO), now that we had it for a two or so weeks... either I'm use to the sounds decibels or it really has "kind of" gotten a tiny bit quieter, if that makes any difference.
It still whines when I punch it for the highway on-ramps. Is there nothing we can do?? Perhaps a different grade of transmission oil??? (probably void the 10yr/100K powertrain warranty, no doubt)
The CVT is another story. In fact, I could swear it sounded noisier/LOUDER when we first got it out on the initial test drive (with only 25 miles on the ODO), now that we had it for a two or so weeks... either I'm use to the sounds decibels or it really has "kind of" gotten a tiny bit quieter, if that makes any difference.
It still whines when I punch it for the highway on-ramps. Is there nothing we can do?? Perhaps a different grade of transmission oil??? (probably void the 10yr/100K powertrain warranty, no doubt)
#4
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Okay... I've gotten myself 2 rolls (8.66 sq.ft.) of original Dynamat and 1 roll of Dynamat Super - aluminum backed lining (4 sq.ft.)
Now if anyone has used Dynamat on their Mitsu before, Please let me know what areas to best concentrate on with my Dmat to help reduce that annoying CVT noise.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Now if anyone has used Dynamat on their Mitsu before, Please let me know what areas to best concentrate on with my Dmat to help reduce that annoying CVT noise.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Last edited by mRVRsport; Jan 23, 2013 at 02:53 PM.
#6
I did the sound proofing on the firewall. Take the exhaust heat shield off, and unclip all the wires from the wall. And then take the original firewall mat off (you have to bend it at the center to remove from the area). Put your stuff directly on the metal wall. Finally place the original mat back on. The clips for the mat may not work again because of the increased thickness. After all this, the noise went down like 30-40%. It is quite noticeable. It took me like 3 hours.
#7
I also put some insulation materials between the underside of the hood and hood mat. That helps a little too. Next stage will be inside the cabinet. That requires to remove front seats and the plastic pieces around the shifter which is a much bigger job. I looked inside the dash from underneath, the factory insulation behind the dash is actually very thick (similar size as those Buick sedan). Just no know why this engine is still so noisy.
I park my RVR and my 12 civic side by side. The Honda engine is much quieter. And the valve ticking noise from me rvr was crazy comparing with the civic. I also found that the intake also has effect on the acceleration noise and the vibration on the driver floor. I DIY a bigger intake snorkel around 4' and it actually quiet down the noise and vibration at 2500 rpm. It pushed all those noise and vibration to 3000rpm. I did that after I put the insulation on the firewall, so I don't know how was the effect of just putting the bigger snorkel. But it is cheap to try. Go to Home Depot or Lowes to buy a square to circle adaptor (it is used for connecting the round flex pipe to the rectangular water drain piping in your house and it fits perfectly to our air box). Than use the flex pipe to replace the original narrow snorkel. I feel better torque during acceleration. I use 89 octant gas and I feel better acceleration too. Finally I have removed my spear tire and tools. All these make my RVR better to drive, now I am kind of satisfied.
I park my RVR and my 12 civic side by side. The Honda engine is much quieter. And the valve ticking noise from me rvr was crazy comparing with the civic. I also found that the intake also has effect on the acceleration noise and the vibration on the driver floor. I DIY a bigger intake snorkel around 4' and it actually quiet down the noise and vibration at 2500 rpm. It pushed all those noise and vibration to 3000rpm. I did that after I put the insulation on the firewall, so I don't know how was the effect of just putting the bigger snorkel. But it is cheap to try. Go to Home Depot or Lowes to buy a square to circle adaptor (it is used for connecting the round flex pipe to the rectangular water drain piping in your house and it fits perfectly to our air box). Than use the flex pipe to replace the original narrow snorkel. I feel better torque during acceleration. I use 89 octant gas and I feel better acceleration too. Finally I have removed my spear tire and tools. All these make my RVR better to drive, now I am kind of satisfied.
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#8
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
I did the sound proofing on the firewall. Take the exhaust heat shield off, and unclip all the wires from the wall. And then take the original firewall mat off (you have to bend it at the center to remove from the area). Put your stuff directly on the metal wall. Finally place the original mat back on. The clips for the mat may not work again because of the increased thickness. After all this, the noise went down like 30-40%. It is quite noticeable. It took me like 3 hours.
I've never thought about Dynamat-ting from the "outside" underbelly of the vehicle on the firewall... my concern would be - it get exposed to road salts, mud/dirt, rain splashes etc.?
I know (from exerience) the regular Dmat does Not hold up well when exposed to the elements - the adhesive looses its bond eventually and the material itself breaks apart.
The Dmat Super on the other hand, holds very well BUT it was "protected" in the areas I've used them in (ie: directly on the underside of hoods and in the trunk directly over muffler areas)
I agree that adding Dmat in the cabin Will be a major undertaking - removing the front seats and all the carpeting - which I know my wife will have issues with..
So, I may have to do it your way > from outside on the firewall. Do you have any photos of your install?
My other thought would be to just do some in the doors for now.
Last edited by mRVRsport; Jan 24, 2013 at 08:45 AM.
#9
well, first of all, I didn't use dynamat on my firwall. But it was something very similar. It sit under the factory firewall mat, so it should be fine. The water is not going to get into that area. I have checked many times on that. The adhesion has been no problem, as soon as it is pressed by the factory mat on top with some of the clips in place.
Don't do the door for now. It is going to make your acceleration even noisier, since your road noise is a bit less. I felt that on my old car. I don't have the picture of the installation, but I can take one to show where it goes.
Don't do the door for now. It is going to make your acceleration even noisier, since your road noise is a bit less. I felt that on my old car. I don't have the picture of the installation, but I can take one to show where it goes.
#10
Thanks for the suggestion!
I've never thought about Dynamat-ting from the "outside" underbelly of the vehicle on the firewall... my concern would be - it get exposed to road salts, mud/dirt, rain splashes etc.?
I know (from exerience) the regular Dmat does Not hold up well when exposed to the elements - the adhesive looses its bond eventually and the material itself breaks apart.
The Dmat Super on the other hand, holds very well BUT it was "protected" in the areas I've used them in (ie: directly on the underside of hoods and in the trunk directly over muffler areas)
I agree that adding Dmat in the cabin Will be a major undertaking - removing the front seats and all the carpeting - which I know my wife will have issues with..
So, I may have to do it your way > from outside on the firewall. Do you have any photos of your install?
My other thought would be to just do some in the doors for now.
I've never thought about Dynamat-ting from the "outside" underbelly of the vehicle on the firewall... my concern would be - it get exposed to road salts, mud/dirt, rain splashes etc.?
I know (from exerience) the regular Dmat does Not hold up well when exposed to the elements - the adhesive looses its bond eventually and the material itself breaks apart.
The Dmat Super on the other hand, holds very well BUT it was "protected" in the areas I've used them in (ie: directly on the underside of hoods and in the trunk directly over muffler areas)
I agree that adding Dmat in the cabin Will be a major undertaking - removing the front seats and all the carpeting - which I know my wife will have issues with..
So, I may have to do it your way > from outside on the firewall. Do you have any photos of your install?
My other thought would be to just do some in the doors for now.
There are two pieces of the mat split by the red line. Once you remove all the clips, you will have to pull it from middle and it is going to bend the mat light the yellow lines shown
After installation, it looks like this
and this is my intake snorkel
#11
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
well, first of all, I didn't use dynamat on my firwall. But it was something very similar. It sit under the factory firewall mat, so it should be fine. The water is not going to get into that area. I have checked many times on that. The adhesion has been no problem, as soon as it is pressed by the factory mat on top with some of the clips in place.
Don't do the door for now. It is going to make your acceleration even noisier, since your road noise is a bit less. I felt that on my old car. I don't have the picture of the installation, but I can take one to show where it goes.
Don't do the door for now. It is going to make your acceleration even noisier, since your road noise is a bit less. I felt that on my old car. I don't have the picture of the installation, but I can take one to show where it goes.
#12
One of the reasons people complain more about noise is because with CVTs the engine is operating at a more constant RPM, so you hear the buzzing, whereas if it was a regular 5 or 6 speed, the rpm would go up and down as the gear changes and the noise probably not as noticeable.
People just notice it more because it's not what they are used to.
People just notice it more because it's not what they are used to.
#13
One of the reasons people complain more about noise is because with CVTs the engine is operating at a more constant RPM, so you hear the buzzing, whereas if it was a regular 5 or 6 speed, the rpm would go up and down as the gear changes and the noise probably not as noticeable.
People just notice it more because it's not what they are used to.
People just notice it more because it's not what they are used to.
#14
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
I also put some insulation materials between the underside of the hood and hood mat. That helps a little too. Next stage will be inside the cabinet. That requires to remove front seats and the plastic pieces around the shifter which is a much bigger job. I looked inside the dash from underneath, the factory insulation behind the dash is actually very thick (similar size as those Buick sedan). Just no know why this engine is still so noisy.
I park my RVR and my 12 civic side by side. The Honda engine is much quieter. And the valve ticking noise from me rvr was crazy comparing with the civic. I also found that the intake also has effect on the acceleration noise and the vibration on the driver floor. I DIY a bigger intake snorkel around 4' and it actually quiet down the noise and vibration at 2500 rpm. It pushed all those noise and vibration to 3000rpm. I did that after I put the insulation on the firewall, so I don't know how was the effect of just putting the bigger snorkel. But it is cheap to try. Go to Home Depot or Lowes to buy a square to circle adaptor (it is used for connecting the round flex pipe to the rectangular water drain piping in your house and it fits perfectly to our air box). Than use the flex pipe to replace the original narrow snorkel. I feel better torque during acceleration. I use 89 octant gas and I feel better acceleration too. Finally I have removed my spear tire and tools. All these make my RVR better to drive, now I am kind of satisfied.
I park my RVR and my 12 civic side by side. The Honda engine is much quieter. And the valve ticking noise from me rvr was crazy comparing with the civic. I also found that the intake also has effect on the acceleration noise and the vibration on the driver floor. I DIY a bigger intake snorkel around 4' and it actually quiet down the noise and vibration at 2500 rpm. It pushed all those noise and vibration to 3000rpm. I did that after I put the insulation on the firewall, so I don't know how was the effect of just putting the bigger snorkel. But it is cheap to try. Go to Home Depot or Lowes to buy a square to circle adaptor (it is used for connecting the round flex pipe to the rectangular water drain piping in your house and it fits perfectly to our air box). Than use the flex pipe to replace the original narrow snorkel. I feel better torque during acceleration. I use 89 octant gas and I feel better acceleration too. Finally I have removed my spear tire and tools. All these make my RVR better to drive, now I am kind of satisfied.
I see..
NOW that is an intake.. Impressive.
Thanks for the photos, Very helptful!
Reminds me a little of an old Nascar's engine bay intakes. ha
Oh, am I seeing correctly.. You mat-ted the air filter Box too?
One of the reasons people complain more about noise is because with CVTs the engine is operating at a more constant RPM, so you hear the buzzing, whereas if it was a regular 5 or 6 speed, the rpm would go up and down as the gear changes and the noise probably not as noticeable.
People just notice it more because it's not what they are used to.
People just notice it more because it's not what they are used to.
.
Last edited by mRVRsport; Jan 24, 2013 at 12:11 PM.
#15
^
I see..
NOW that is an intake.. Impressive.
Thanks for the photos, Very helptful!
Reminds me a little of an old Nascar's engine bay intakes. ha
Oh, am I seeing correctly.. You mat-ted the air filter Box too?
More the reason for a Muffler Delete MOD, aye...
Or, just use the manual shift paddles or shifter more.
.
I see..
NOW that is an intake.. Impressive.
Thanks for the photos, Very helptful!
Reminds me a little of an old Nascar's engine bay intakes. ha
Oh, am I seeing correctly.. You mat-ted the air filter Box too?
More the reason for a Muffler Delete MOD, aye...
Or, just use the manual shift paddles or shifter more.
.
Ya, but not very helpful. If you have extra you can do it.