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Finally got around to getting my hood warped in carbon fiber vinyl... Also decided to add an lancer side plate mount. Had to holes where the original plate was and on a whim I covered the center panel and emblem in cf too! Altho I didnt fill in the old plate holes, im thinking of redoing in after filling the holes with some JB weld
Just two nights ago I had to repair a broken exhaust front pipe, in the straight section just behind the small protective shield and front hanger. It was getting noisy and finally rusted completely through.
I want to know when 3rd parties are going to start making affordable catback exhaust systems for the Outlander Sport.
Installed an OEM touch screen and Pyle backup cam...still need to figure out the camera wiring (any help would be great!) but it's all installed and ready.love it so far.
Installed an OEM touch screen and Pyle backup cam...still need to figure out the camera wiring (any help would be great!) but it's all installed and ready.love it so far.
I have some picture from two or so years ago when I wired a back up camera into the factory wiring harness. They're probably on one of my old phones, so if you give me just a few days I'll try and hunt it down for you. A lot has been going on lately so it might take me a little bit, lol.
If you're in NJ/NYC area, and need some work done, let me know! This guy has great prices, and does it right the first time.
After:
Yes,I know I need to get her 'dropped...
With front bra (After). The three diamond logo is a dark carbon fiber wrap, with the side edge still chromed. Can only see that when looking towards the side.
(Below) Bumper removed to remove chrome grill ring, and to install the black one. During... Before (yawn):
This post is not intended for audiophiles and members of any musical conservatory.
My car came with the basic sound system that lacked both tweeters and a subwoofer.
I decided to improve the sound system but I wanted to keep the head unit, wanted no reduction of cargo space, and did not want to spend an arm and a leg.
Recently I found a great junk yard, where one can take out parts from older cars and pay peanuts for these findings (Kenny U pull). I grabbed tweeters with attached base blockers from W203 and W210 Mercedeses, C5 Audi Allroads, and installed them as the tweeters are prewired and enabled by the ECU even in my model. Since the tweeters are connected to the front speakers by factory wiring on the OS (as per the service manual), for the best sound and longevity base blockers are strongly recommended.
I also learned that Nissan Muranos, Mazda Speed 3, and certain Mazda 6 models came with a spare tire sub from BOSE. I pulled both an active (form Mazda 6, first attached image) and a passive (from a Murano, identical without the small amp) sub and also a amplifier (from a 2002 Audi Allroad, 2nd and 4th attached images). The amplifier is to power only the sub. Installed both, ended up keeping the independent amp + passive sub combo.
Just as described in the link below, with the active sub one must reduce the base extensively and send to avoid distortion. http://www.civinfo.com/forum/ipods-m...b-install.html
I admit the installation of the active sub with built in amp is much easier as one does not have to select the leads from the 25 pin BOSE amplifier. Total cost is under $40 Canadian including wires, installation time ~3 hours.
The same items are available from Ebay for $ 70-100 (US) each. Unless one can get them from junk yards they may not be so appealing.
The 3rd image shows the final product. The amp is located in the upper left corner.
I am satisfied with the improvement.
From the 1st pic, it looked like the sub-plate was about the full size of the spare wheel "well". It's a lot smaller once placed in the spare tire! So, how big is that woofer? 6.5"??
From the 1st pic, it looked like the sub-plate was about the full size of the spare wheel "well". It's a lot smaller once placed in the spare tire! So, how big is that woofer? 6.5"??
Quite a stealthy install though.
I think it is only 5.25". I believe it puts out 100 W at 1 Ohm but I am not 100% sure. Little info is available on them. BTW, something similar is installed in the current Nissan Rogue and the latest Mazda CX5 (see this video at 7:00) as well both with BOSE system.
I bought two 4 sensor kits for $10 or so each (two because I did not trust the quality at first sight).
They are still at the same price range now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Parking-4-Se...wAAOSwx2dYEyMN and just this seller sold 561 so far. They are also available in more exotic colors for a little higher price. Originally I installed the parking sensors only to the rear but after 2 years of reliable performance I thought I install the remaining kit to the front too. Neither the front nor the rear bumper needs to be removed for the installation. Using coat hanger wire one can fish the wires to the point of easy access. The power to the rear comes from the back-up lights on the tailgate (one has to lead a wire as the attached diagram shows. I used the tail light grommet to fish the sensor wires (two on each side) into the trunk and fixed the control box behind the small cubby hole/box on the left side (this one exists even if you have the RF subwoofer on the right side. The display/beeper (placed above the center rear view mirror with velcro) wire was guided under the headliner on the left side.
One can use part of this video below as a guide for part of the task: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c2p1WiVysts
The front sensor kit installation is a bit trickier as some wires must be fished through the firewall. I found a spot above the glove box on the passenger side that can be accessed by removing the glove box (inside) and the plastic gutter below the front wipers (outside; coat hanger is needed again). This way no drilling was required to any grommets. Power comes from an empty fuse box slot (that has ACC supply). The front sensors can be turned on and off by a modified switch (taken from a gen 1 Outlander, rewired and added a red LED for night time illumination) that fits perfectly to the factory switch depot next to the ASC switch. One can opt for a soft touch switch (like a fog light switch) with a relay. The front sensor display is at the bottom of the wind shield. One could opt for an 8 sensor kit with one single control box but many do have bulky displays and from the beeping you have to figure out whether the obstacle is in the front or in the back. Here I have two separate beeping and display. Some pictures attached for reference.
I have also attached the very attractive activated displays that sadly can only be used with the JDM parking sensors (both multicolor and monochrome). It would have looked much nicer.
Looks great! Is there any reason you attached the rear sensor display over the mirror and the front display near the windshield? I have a backup camera, so I end up looking at the display a lot when in reverse.
Also, how do the rear sensors react if you have a hitch and are towing something? I'd assume they would beep like crazy while in reverse unless there was a master cut off switch added?
Think these could be painted? They look like a cool idea, but my Outlander is brown, lol. Black might sort of look ok if they were installed in the black section of the bumper, but I believe that is too low to the ground to properly work.
Feb 9, 2017, 09:05 PM
