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Hello Watermelons,
It can be done elegantly and reversibly by programming your ETACS.
Here is the map for registered users (few in Western Canada), who have the interface (OBD2), the program (Diagbox or ETECS Decoder), and the training to complete this: https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer...A.k5jl_k5KAMjQ
Alternatively, you may purchase the interface from ebay (for example like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexia-3-V48-...main_2&vxp=mtr
and learn the programming from the following forums: http://etacsdecoder.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=2 http://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mit...ization-40223/
Once you find someone in your area, who can do it for you or better yet,learn it yourself this interface/program combo is a blessing to have as many other things can also be customised, for example:
- trip computer auto-reset disable,
- automatic locking and unlocking the doors,
- rear wiper intermittent timing,
- fog lights (when can they be turned on),
- tire circumference input change (with custom wheels/tires the odometer remains accurate)
- TPMS enable/disable (if you change for winter and summer tires this is useful),
- sound system (4/6 speaker of premium with amplifier and subwoofer) etc.
Hope this helps.
So what your saying is buy this little gizmo for $90 and then use these forums to code it to do all these things and more? That almost sounds to good to be true. That will pay for itself just to remove those stupid tpms warnings and mpg always reseting.
Yes, it is true. Just go and visit those two forum sites and you will be convinced yourself by the overwhelmingly positive feedback by those, who did go on this road. BTW, I am willing to program (free of charge) someone's car in my neighborhood. Already did about half a dozen.
Why does the only one in BC look to be located in the absolute middle of nowhere on the top of a mountain near no roads or citys?
Would that gizmo you linked actually work for the new RVR's?
Was just reading the link this morning and not sure what the vehicles are that it does mention but definitely didn't see Mitsu/RVR on the list of vehicles it does work for on that particular EBAY link.
Seems as though folks have used them on OS and ASX. I would want to be gosh darn sure I, or the person doing it, knew FOR SURE what they were doing. I did some firmware stuff in the RTU world and let me just say it is far too easy to let the magic smoke out of the box. IN a car that would be, well, bad.
Why does the only one in BC look to be located in the absolute middle of nowhere on the top of a mountain near no roads or citys?
Would that gizmo you linked actually work for the new RVR's?
Was just reading the link this morning and not sure what the vehicles are that it does mention but definitely didn't see Mitsu/RVR on the list of vehicles it does work for on that particular EBAY link.
I am unable to summarize the 100+ pages (1100+ posts) in one paragraph.
In a nutshell, Mitsubishi teamed up with Citroen an Peugeot for European, South African, and Australian market shares and produced clones of the ASX/OS/RVR and for the full size Outlander under Peugeot and Citroen names.
The Peugeot 4008 htthttps://www.google.ca/search?q=peugeot+4008&espv=2&biw=1680&bih=949&site =webhp&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=cctIVeyEPNW1yA T_xYDAAg&sqi=2&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQp:// and the Citroen C4 Aircross https://www.google.ca/search?q=citro...ed=0CAYQ_AUoAQ are the clones of our ASX/OS/RVR. The interface and one of the programs (Diagbox) is specifically designed for the French clones. The other program (ETACS Decoder, still uses the same interface though) was developed by two gentlemen (under usernames of Vadimus and Earl Vadim). The programming is not for those, who do not tend to read the manuals before trying to turn on any device. Yes, one can light up the instrument panel with one wrong click (all possible error messages may come up) or even can disable the car (if it is equipped with an SST transmission like the EVO or the Ralliart). The programming is a step-by-step process and there is no room for error. However, hundreds of people did succeed and use this option with ease. The instructions are straightforward and cause no problem if one follows them. Problems and error messages come when someone thinks, he does not need to read the instructions and just tries to change things.
The ETACS has not really changed since the 2010 introduction of the ASX and the 2011 debut of the OS/RVR. It does work for the newest models as well. It works for Lancers and Outlanders too beyond 2007 I believe. The ETACS Decoder also works for the 3rd generation Outlander and perhaps even for the Mirage.
As far as why some registered users appear to be located in the middle of nowhere I do not have a plausible answer. Everyone, who registered gave some location.
Here is the list instead of the map (there are many people, who did not register, so an ad on Craigslist or Kijiji may also help to establish contact): http://etacsdecoder.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=33
Last edited by AWCAWD; Feb 18, 2016 at 06:48 AM.
Reason: update/fixing typos
You need to disconnect the wire that is on pin 3 of the A-27X relay.
Next you need to take the + wire going to your LED lights and connect it to pin 3 of the A-27X relay.
You will need to test your headlights after doing this to make sure they still turn on. Without having the wiring diagram for the actual headlight control it's hard to say how it's wired. For instance, I'm not sure what the dotted line is going from "2" down to "4" on A-52.
Let us know if that works.
Can you explain this part again, but like you're talking to a 2 year old and telling them what to do over the phone?
Kinda wish more people have attempted this and there were step by step photos.
Where are these relays actually located in the car?
I have yet to see a Day Time Running Light Relay. The only one I know that should exist is supposed to be in the fuse box. There is no DRL relay in the fuse box. There is a spot for one, but nothing there.
Again I've also heard theres a DRL module, again where is this magical item located?
And once the DRL relay has been located how do I determine which pin in it is pin 3?
Mind you buying that thing would be awesome to ditch that stupid TPMS on its own never mind those other possibilities.
The relays are all in the shop manual, but http://www.mitsubishipartssource.com/ has nice line drawings or images of all the parts and where to find them. You could try that.
The relays are all in the shop manual, but http://www.mitsubishipartssource.com/ has nice line drawings or images of all the parts and where to find them. You could try that.
Not seeing a DRL relay in there. Probably doesn't help that its american so its outlander sport in there and most of those wont have mandatory DRLs so I know that particular wiring is slightly different. We had a wiring diagram for an outlander sport printed out and it just wasn't the same. I see relays for the fuse boxes but again a DRL relay does not exist in my fuse box.
Am I looking for the spot where the DRL relay SHOULD be from my fuse box? Though obviously if theres no relay in that slot powers probably not going to those wires at all so tracing those wires would be fruitless. My DRL relay in the fuse box should be located in the dead center of this photo where you can see the metal contacts in the holes.
Do you know where yours is? Perhaps a picture? lol Clearly I need this shop manual...
Like this one here http://www.mitsubishipartssource.com...Y/6255180.html
Is this the one directly under my steering wheel?
Numer 3 it says is a "relay box" is that the item I am supposed to find? What is it a relay for? Theres relays for everything...
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Last edited by Watermelons; May 5, 2015 at 09:32 PM.
Reason: Adding pic
I would think that you can disable your DRL by removing fuse no. 13 inside the engine bay.
About the Lexia cable, I've used it to enable automatic door locking (20kph) on my 2012 ASX. I've also enabled the buzzer for locking/unlocking, disabled trip computer auto-reset and enabled the rear fog lamp.
That cable has paid for itself -- I've used it to configure about 25 Lancers and ASXs here in my area. I can say for sure that the auto-unlock feature (on park or engine off) doesn't work with the 2015 model, at least with my version of the Diagbox software.
Use of the cable is also not straightforward. Prepare to spend nights trying to configure the software properly. You also need to downgrade the cable firmware for it to work properly.
to be honest, i'm not sure what a 2013 RVR uses for the DRL, is it a separate bulb? if its just a lower power signal to the low beams, this won't work.
unplug the connector to the DRL's. use a Scotchlok "vampire" splice on it to now extend this wire to your new DRL's. this is assuming the new DRL's don't draw more current than the existing ones. this would require no factory wire cutting.
to be safe, i'd completely seal the vampire splice with liquid electrical tape, and somehow seal up both of the old DRL connections to avoid corrosion should you ever want to use them again.
to be honest, i'm not sure what a 2013 RVR uses for the DRL, is it a separate bulb? if its just a lower power signal to the low beams, this won't work.
It depends what model you have:
1.) If you have a 2013 GT model it uses a separate bulb in the fog light assembly for DRL (same for the SE for US market).
2.) The Canadian SE model (ES for the folks in the States) operates the low beam with reduced intensity as DRL.
It is coded differently in the ETACS see the attached image.
"Independent" would be 1.) and "normal" is 2.)
It's probably not possible, but if you trace the wire on the "fused" side of fuse 13, it will lead you to where the DLR should be. If it leads you to a spot where there's no relay then it's time to look for a different wiring diagram or trace the wires from your factory driving light back to their source.
Personally, I think you need to find a slightly more experienced electrician that understands what to look for and where to look before you end up cutting a wire that you shouldn't or hooking a wire to something you shouldn't and fry your ECU or something else.
Pulling fuse 13 does nothing. Actually running around with out fuse 13 right now because I blew 18 and 19 last weekend.
And yes DRL for my vehicle is the same bulb as headlight. hence why Ive made this topic in the first place. Because all the lights have been swapped to HID, when on DRL mode the bulb flickers so I've been running around with headlights on at all times and just want to save my HIDs and use the LEDs for DRL instead.
May 4, 2015, 07:47 AM
