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Old Nov 30, 2016, 01:30 PM
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Do you have a link for the quick connects you are using?
Old Nov 30, 2016, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Sawdust
Do you have a link for the quick connects you are using?
Purchased them off Amazon. They are super cheap, less than $12

"Mokungit 5 pairs 3 Core 3pin Waterproof LED Connctors Adapter"
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Old Dec 8, 2016, 11:00 AM
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More progress. Motor is now out of the car. Next step is tearing the block down to send to RED to get sleeved



Old Dec 8, 2016, 02:06 PM
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20,000 miles on the car, 19,100 miles of 130whp/110wtq more than stock.
Six track events, WOT every day I drove it.

The Evo 10 stock clutch works pretty well if you don't abuse the car like an idiot. Still has a ton of life on it but swapping it out while the motor is out and being built.



Old Dec 8, 2016, 02:33 PM
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do the CMC while you have the motor out... magnus have a nice kit
Old Dec 8, 2016, 02:35 PM
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2014 is the updated CMC. Shouldn't be an issue.
Old Dec 8, 2016, 02:36 PM
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still plastic though right?
Old Dec 8, 2016, 02:37 PM
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Already have an AMS CMC kit with OEM MC to go in with a new clutch.
Old Dec 8, 2016, 02:37 PM
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Yes, but not the one that was recalled. I have a few friends running around with aftermarket clutches on the updated OEM plastic CMC. No issues.
Old Dec 9, 2016, 02:25 PM
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After the teardown there is more damage than previously thought....

The crank is scored on #4. Taking it to machine shop to see what they say.

The rod bearings in #4 also have some weird heat/wear marks on them. I'm assuming that was from the cylinder failure or from the cylinder being washed down with fuel and went pst the rings or something.

If I need a new crank I'm going to revist the stroker idea...
Old Dec 9, 2016, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by razorlab
After the teardown there is more damage than previously thought....

The crank is scored on #4. Taking it to machine shop to see what they say.

The rod bearings in #4 also have some weird heat/wear marks on them. I'm assuming that was from the cylinder failure or from the cylinder being washed down with fuel and went pst the rings or something.

If I need a new crank I'm going to revist the stroker idea...
Probably from detonation (due to lean condition), and possibly oil starvation. Doesn't MAP make a baffled/trap door oil pan for the X?


If you can see score marks, it will very likely need to be cut 10 or 20 thou. I would find a good used crank, or go with the stroker setup. I would only do the stroker setup if you don't plan to rev the motor past 8k. The 94mm crank and 147.5mm rods don't have the best rod ratio at 1.57:1...
Old Dec 9, 2016, 04:19 PM
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Yea I just saw the Manley 94mm crank is $1,300.

Nope. Nope. and Nope. I'm already bleeding money on this pile.

The score mark on the crank I can feel with my finger and catches with my nail.

OEM it is.
Old Dec 9, 2016, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by razorlab
Yea I just saw the Manley 94mm crank is $1,300.

Nope. Nope. and Nope. I'm already bleeding money on this pile.

OEM it is.
how much for a 4b12 or 4b11 crank?..
Old Dec 9, 2016, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by tephra
how much for a 4b12 or 4b11 crank?..
huh?
Old Dec 9, 2016, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by razorlab
huh?
If you have to get a new crank, whats a new/used stock one worth? Like if it's going to be 800 u may as well go the Manly billet...


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