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Hello Evom, my name is Ron and I've owned an evo for a little over 7 years now enjoying every moment of it. My friends and family don't understand my obsession with the car or why I spend so much time and money working on it, but the car rewards me so much that it's justified.
A little background about myself; I was born and raised in San Diego, California and always had a passion for wrenching on cars(as most of us do). I graduated from San Diego State University with a Bachelors in Electrical Engineering and have since applied those skills to the evo platform. I drove a mini van for 3 years while saving for the Evo. It was a 2003 Honda Odyssey, a very fast van...with Vtech. I have been on these forums for some time now.
I'm 26 now. I daily drove the evo up until the middle of 2015 when I spun a bearing, which resulted in a hole in my block. It was self induced and totally my fault. At the time, I didn't have the funds for a build so I just threw in a factory long block and called it a day.
Now, I will be using the car for both occasional track and drag, but it will spend 95% of it's time on the streets during the weekends. As such, I wanted a well rounded car with great cornering capabilities, substantial driver feedback, and the power to lay the smack down on anybody!!! No, no i'll be happy with what it makes in the end.
My Stock Block, cams, turbo numbers were an unsafe: 429hp/414trq on E85.
My goal for this build will be a reliable 650hp/600trq on E85. If I get anything close to that I will be happy enough.
I'll update this thread as much as I can, stay tuned for pictures and progress .
The List:
-2.3L Stroker Built by MAP. ( Manley Billet Crank "Turbo Tuff," Manley I-beam Rods "Turbo Tuff," Wiseco 1400 HD pistons, ACL bearings, ARP main studs, L19 Head Studs with OEM head gasket.)
-ETS 3.5" Intercooler (Widetank)
-ETS UICP + LICP
-MAP Tubular Exhaust Manifold
-MAP FP Turbo Custom 3" DP with O2 dump recirculation
-Tial MVS wastegate
-Synapse Diverter valve
-JB FP Black Turbo
-FIC 2150cc Injectors
-AMS Fuel rail
-Upgraded Fuel Lines (-6AN before and after factory hardline)
-Walbro 450lph (E85 Compatible) Fuel pump
-STM fuel pump rewire kit (4 gauge wire to the back, then their 8 gauge to the pump)
-Fuel Lab FPR
-MAP 3" Test Pipe
-Tanabe 3" Cat Back Exhaust
-GSC R2 Billet and Nitrided cams
-Boostin Performance Stage 3 cylinder head(Port/Polish, Supertech Dual valve springs, +1mm oversized valves intake/exhaust)
-Boostin Performance Ported Intake Manifold
-MAP 65mm Ported Throttle body
-Spoolin up COP ignition
-STM catch can
-TRE Built transfer case
-Shep Built Transmission
-12 plate WEIR Rear Differential clutch Mod
-Exedy Triple Disk with Hydraulic TOB
-RRE installed BCS (IngersolRand solenoid)
-RRE installed MAP sensor (3.5 bar)
-KW V3 Coilovers with Vorshlag Camber plates
-Whiteline Roll center adjustment kit
-Goodridge SS Brake Lines
Cosmetic/Audio
-Rexpeed Carbon Fiber E-brake handle
-Rexpeed Carbon Side Skirt Extensions
-APR Carbon Fiber Front Splitter
-Replica JDM Rear Bumper (w/ Side markers)
-Perrin Shorty Antenna
-Cusco Radiator Shroud
-Redline Goods Napa Leather Arm Rest
-Defi Racer Oil Pressure Gauge
-Defi Racer Boost Gauge
-AEM UEGO Wideband Gauge
-Lancer Shop A-Pillar 3 Gauge Pod Factory Match
-Gentex Rear View Mirror
-Pioneer Bluetooth Head Unit
-Crunch 1800 Watt Amp
-Alpine Type R Speakers (Components up front, Coaxials in the rear)
-Side Marker Mod
-Under Dash Accent lights
-Viper Alarm
And OUT comes the engine once more!
I sent the block and throttle body to MAP. The block for a 2.3 Liter build where it will get:
-Hot tanked
-Billet crank
-I beam rods
-Wiseco Pistons 9.0:1
-ACL Bearings
-ARP Main studs
The throttle body for 65mm porting, new seals, re-calibration of sensor, and upgraded throttle plate.
The Cylinder head and intake manifold went to Boostin Performance for their stage 3 service:
-Hot tanked
-Supertech Dual valve springs
- +1 mm oversize valves
-Fully ported and deshrouded
Excited to get these parts back!
Note: This thread will not be in chronological order in the beginning as this is what i've done thus far.
Last edited by Pal215; Jun 6, 2017 at 02:48 PM.
Reason: Update
Before modding the car further, I needed to fix any problems the car currently had. My HVAC heater knob was stuck due to the mix box door binding. Out came the dash.
While I was in there I replaced the passenger side airbag due to the recall. Now I can take my gf around town with one less thing to worry about.
The heater knob now turns like butter. The job itself was a pain, but you only have to do it once if done right.
And now for some damage control so that I don't keep breaking parts once I make big power.
Just got my transmission back from ShepTrans. I used their street/strip option without the billet reinforced output tube. I should have taken that option, but we'll see what I can do without it.
While I was at it, I picked up a TRE built transfer case locally. Zero miles, never installed! ( I find out later that the seller did in fact install it and blow it before selling it to me)
I wanted to share some things I did a while back. Weir 12 plate rear diff clutch pack. Makes a world of a difference with power oversteer!
Can you tell I like orange juice?
I needed something to keep the rear end planted without subjecting me to too much road noise. Buschur had the answer to that:
This should take care of my drivetrain reinforcement.
As for the fuel system I planned on using a single walbro 450 rewired with -6AN lines, an AMS fuel rail and FIC 2150cc injectors. Here is how I fit the upgraded fuel line onto the factory hard lines. PM me for sizes and i'll look them up for you.
I modified a new factory fuel hanger to fit the Walbro 450 because I needed a fresh fuel filter for maximum fuel flow. I can just as easily bypass it all together, but I wanted to keep it for as long as I can. While I was at it, I drilled the siphon tube to 9/64" to aid fuel return.
Just got the valve cover back from Detective Coating as well as some goodies from STM Racing, MAP, and FP
I decided to use the recirculated o2 dump option because I don't want to be THAT loud when under boost. The car is going to be obnoxious regardless of what I do, but i'm trying to make a difference here in CA.(Lol nope):
Definitely putting the MAP short runner to the test on this build..
This was a tough decision, but I had to sell my high flow cat for a test pipe. I can't take any chances at restriction even though this is a Mil.Spec HFC with only 100 cell rating.
One of my front struts was leaking because a certain acquaintance of mine thought it was a good idea to use an impact gun when installing them. Looking back at it I should have stopped him. So I sent it out for a rebuild. I'm using KW v3's with vorshlag camber plates and a whiteline roll center adjustment kit. I love this combination with the WEIR rear diff plates. It makes the car so stable and nimble at speed. I used to have swift springs on stock struts before and i'll never go back.
While I am waiting for the block to come back, I converted my exedy twin push to a tripple and polished the 6 retaining arms with 2000 then 3000 grit sand paper. This is supposed to help with noise and engagement.
That's all I have for now boys. Stay tuned for assembly and trouble shooting.
For track duty, and to prevent broken crank shafts, I highly recommend a 2.2 build with a 94mm crank, and 153mm rods. You can get the short block from English racing for $5,100 with a core. https://englishracing.net/collection...00-short-block
For track duty, and to prevent broken crank shafts, I highly recommend a 2.2 build with a 94mm crank, and 153mm rods. You can get the short block from English racing for $5,100 with a core. https://englishracing.net/collection...00-short-block
Looks like a sweet deal! How do you feel about the 2.2 eagle 94mm crank over the 2.3 manley 100mm billet ?
Looks like a sweet deal! How do you feel about the 2.2 eagle 94mm crank over the 2.3 manley 100mm billet ?
If you talk to someone at English, I'm sure they'll be happy to tell you about the pile of broken Manley cranks (and other manley stuff) in the corner of the shop...lol. For the power levels of the Black, the eagle will be fine. If you were strapping a big turbo on it and going for 1100whp, a billet k1 94mm would be the better option, but you're not doing that. You can upgrade to the billet K1 for $950 though.
If you talk to someone at English, I'm sure they'll be happy to tell you about the pile of broken Manley cranks (and other manley stuff) in the corner of the shop...lol. For the power levels of the Black, the eagle will be fine. If you were strapping a big turbo on it and going for 1100whp, a billet k1 94mm would be the better option, but you're not doing that. You can upgrade to the billet K1 for $950 though.
Hahaha, I see. I've always respected English Racing and their work. Especially when they worked with GSC to develop the R2 cams for strokers, such an awesome idea! My block has already been at MAP for the past two weeks so i'm sure the build is underway. I'm confident that it will be fine, but If anything goes wrong with that engine I will definitely post it here.
At the moment, i'm going to have Rick from RRE tune it for me. They've always done great work, even if it meant staying on the dyno until 2am
I should have some more updates for you soon. Some recent "wild" fires here in Southern California have slowed down shipping services.
-pal215
Those DynaPaks at RRE make me wonder whether their working OK. Ive witnessed a couple of tune & pull sessions & they seemed like they were putting a huge load on the drivetrain (dont know why, but seemed the machines were harsh & out of spec). I asked Mike, but he said they were OK even though the hood shrouds were removed (that was months ago)
I guess the Reese shop is no longer? Spent the day down there a few years ago & have heard some of the stories
Those DynaPaks at RRE make me wonder whether their working OK. Ive witnessed a couple of tune & pull sessions & they seemed like they were putting a huge load on the drivetrain (dont know why, but seemed the machines were harsh & out of spec). I asked Mike, but he said they were OK even though the hood shrouds were removed (that was months ago)
I guess the Reese shop is no longer? Spent the day down there a few years ago & have heard some of the stories
I've noticed that they load up the car during steady state tuning. This might be to account for changes in drivetrain stress, weight, incline, decline, or just harsh driving conditions. The good news is that their dyno hasn't eaten any cars yet
James Reese is still tuning evo's today using a mustang dyno. He did kind of did an up and down then up again in terms of trust among the evo community. I had a buddy who's step dad took his evo there with no issues...and then the horror stories about Reese started showing up. Then there was that time where he tried to sell fake Buschur battery trays, David was so pissed.
Ever since my first tune i've stuck with RRE. I've learned a lot from Mike W. and his team.
Aug 17, 2016, 10:58 AM
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