My Evo 9 Build. from noob to building my own turbos inside!
Dec 21, 2016, 06:56 PM
#31
If you want a stock frame version of this turbo, you can use you Evo 9 CHRA and turbine housing, just need the rebuilt kit, compressor wheel, and either machine the current compressor cover or buy one that's alreeqdy done (about the same price) also if you reuse your OEM CHRA, you'll need to either machine or grind the area where the bearing side thrust collar sits, since the upgraded thrust bearing rebuild kits have wider thrust collars.
Dec 21, 2016, 07:06 PM
#32
Got a lot done since my last update, I've stripped and painted the engine paint and rad support the OEM color, it was all scratched up so I wanted a nice, clean start. Also painted my front subframe a nice matte black. i cleaned up the bay a bit with relocating my fuel relays by reusing the old bracket, tucking everything lower behind the intake manifold out of sight. Also deleted the power steering " cooling loop", and reusing the hard line to make it go over the engine mount.
I starting shaving all the unnecessary posts and holes in my intake manifold, tig them shut, clean it all up and get a nice coat of matte black soon.
Dan Buschur was nice enough to find me a 5 speed trans along with his Stage 1 rebuild. Picked that up along with dropping off my transfer case to get an Upgraded Mfactory Differential and brought my oil pan to Buschur racing to get baffled.
It's the first time I've had the pan off since I had the engine built, was awesome to see a nice fresh, Brad penn green and no metal at all laying in there! Hopefully get my transfer case back soo after The new year so I can put the drivetrain back in and start the wire tuck/reroute.
I starting shaving all the unnecessary posts and holes in my intake manifold, tig them shut, clean it all up and get a nice coat of matte black soon.
Dan Buschur was nice enough to find me a 5 speed trans along with his Stage 1 rebuild. Picked that up along with dropping off my transfer case to get an Upgraded Mfactory Differential and brought my oil pan to Buschur racing to get baffled.
It's the first time I've had the pan off since I had the engine built, was awesome to see a nice fresh, Brad penn green and no metal at all laying in there! Hopefully get my transfer case back soo after The new year so I can put the drivetrain back in and start the wire tuck/reroute.
Last edited by EvoIX89; Dec 21, 2016 at 07:08 PM. Reason: Forgot to add some stuff
Jan 9, 2017, 08:44 AM
#33
Got my transfer case back this week with an Upgraded differential from Mfactory, got the oil pan baffled by Buschur, 5 speed trans mount, 5 speed trans harness, Kiggly HLA, 240 stainless hardware for the engine bay, getting my flywheel resurfaced today, and torque solutions shifter mount and cable bushings. So this week or next the drivetrain will hopefully be back in the car and the wire tuck will begin! Just wish it wasn't so damn cold here in Pittsburgh, id be a little more eager to begin.
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EvoIX89 (Jan 21, 2017)
Jan 22, 2017, 12:16 PM
#35
Got a lot done since my last post! Changed out a ton of hardware for stainless in the engine bay and on the engine. Shaved and painted the intake manifold. Put the motor, transfer case and transmission in the car, 5 speed cables and shifter assembly with all solid bushings too. Now to open up all the wire looms and rerouted everything real nice. Also painted the block and head, figured I would make that nice too, since everything is new and fresh!
Jan 22, 2017, 12:22 PM
#36
As excited as I am to to run my T3 FF 20G out til it explodes, I picked up a mint 10.5 Evo 9 hotside, from Dan Buschur. Already ported and blasted. Can't wait to get a STS td05H 20G stock frame put together at the end of the year! Hopefully have a good spooling, 500hp stock frame turbo then.
Feb 14, 2017, 09:23 PM
#37
We'll finally got the whole car back together and put a few miles on it with pump gas. No noises, leaks, or issues yet!
But since the last update I took allllll the wire loom and tape off of the wire harness and ran everything as hidden and tucked away as possible.
NOTE: I didn't have to cut one single wire!!! Once the loom was off, there is a ton of wire length hidden inside and not utilized very well from the factory. So once I had the wiring laid out to all the sensors I started wrapping the individual lengths with nice, new expanding loom (same as the stuff I use to run wire on the jets I work on), used a bunch of shrink wrap and done! Nice, clean, and hidden (for the most part) but look through the pics and the trans is very visible along with hardly any wires running over the motor or intake manifold.
Also picked up a billet coolant overflow tank that mounts similar to the STM one, but luckily I found this one for $30 on eBay. Gets the job done and is actually made very well!
Now that I have a new custom rad, it sits lower than I expected and now it's not the highest point in the cooling system. So I ordered an STM thermostat housing with the rad cap on top. Then be able to for sure know I got all the air out. So for now waiting on that and for the good e85 to come along with spring! Can't wait to hit the dyno again and see what this little 20G can really do
But since the last update I took allllll the wire loom and tape off of the wire harness and ran everything as hidden and tucked away as possible.
NOTE: I didn't have to cut one single wire!!! Once the loom was off, there is a ton of wire length hidden inside and not utilized very well from the factory. So once I had the wiring laid out to all the sensors I started wrapping the individual lengths with nice, new expanding loom (same as the stuff I use to run wire on the jets I work on), used a bunch of shrink wrap and done! Nice, clean, and hidden (for the most part) but look through the pics and the trans is very visible along with hardly any wires running over the motor or intake manifold.
Also picked up a billet coolant overflow tank that mounts similar to the STM one, but luckily I found this one for $30 on eBay. Gets the job done and is actually made very well!
Now that I have a new custom rad, it sits lower than I expected and now it's not the highest point in the cooling system. So I ordered an STM thermostat housing with the rad cap on top. Then be able to for sure know I got all the air out. So for now waiting on that and for the good e85 to come along with spring! Can't wait to hit the dyno again and see what this little 20G can really do
Last edited by EvoIX89; Feb 14, 2017 at 09:25 PM. Reason: Posted wrong video
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gqcode (May 10, 2023)
Feb 14, 2017, 09:27 PM
#38
Also forgot to mention a guy on a Facebook Evo page was selling climate control and gauge cluster LED's so I couldn't resist getting them! So much brighter, plus I had a few that were burned out. And if you plan on changing the bulbs in the climate control panel they SUCK
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EvoIX89 (Feb 15, 2017)
Feb 16, 2017, 01:16 PM
#41
Evolving Member
I actually spent my lunch break reading this thread, goes to show that anything is possible when you put your mind to it.
Very good, next you will be tuning
Very good, next you will be tuning
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EvoIX89 (Feb 16, 2017)
Feb 16, 2017, 02:14 PM
#42
Thanks! Really appreciate it! I have an AEM V1 and the a laptop I'm hoping to learn tuning on. Just not my main focus yet. I've also been looking into building my own engines. Been seeing a lot about 2.1 destroted engines and it really have me intrigued, since their pretty cost effective if I don't have. Good 4g63 block and Manley makes some nice forged cranks from what I've seen on local builds
Mar 7, 2017, 11:47 AM
#43
Finally the weather has been breaking here and there so I can get some break in miles on the new clutch. Also been testing the local gas stations for ethanol and the one speedway had e78-80, and I decided to make the switch!
Also got my STM water neck in so no more overheating issues, it's amazing how much air can be trapped inside these systems. Haven't seen coolant temps much over 185-190 yet.
Decided to paint my drag wheels some outrageous color, should be able to see it rolling down the 1/4 mile pretty well now
Looking to get them mounted and balanced soon and the local track in Pittsburgh opens in April, can't wait to see how the new trans works. This will be a good comparison since the only think I've changed is the trans, I'm gonna get some runs in as is and compare time slips to my 6 speed runs.
Also got my STM water neck in so no more overheating issues, it's amazing how much air can be trapped inside these systems. Haven't seen coolant temps much over 185-190 yet.
Decided to paint my drag wheels some outrageous color, should be able to see it rolling down the 1/4 mile pretty well now
Looking to get them mounted and balanced soon and the local track in Pittsburgh opens in April, can't wait to see how the new trans works. This will be a good comparison since the only think I've changed is the trans, I'm gonna get some runs in as is and compare time slips to my 6 speed runs.
Apr 2, 2017, 07:55 PM
#44
finally hit the track today! First pass got an 11.01 at 130MPH! unreal! on street tires cutting a 1.65 60ft. Cant believe it. made 4 more passes all around 11.0 but no 10 second pass.... yet. Boost was 27 PSI, so ordering more waste gate springs tonight for the retune, so I can run more than that.
Just for reference the only difference from my last pass, last year to this one was a 6 speed to 5 speed trans swap and a new clutch. everything else was the same. last year was an 11.35 at 125mph.
The Comp Stage 2 UnSprung clutch held up great too! had a little bit of clutch smell after the last 2 passes but no slipping and no lock out. Drove to and from the track. Full street weight. just took the screen off the turbo and put a Velocity stack on it when I got there.
Hoping to hit the dyno later this month and turn it up! Also still need my M&H Rcaemasters mounted too. Id really like to see a 10.7 after.
Video of First pass:
Time Slip Below:
Just for reference the only difference from my last pass, last year to this one was a 6 speed to 5 speed trans swap and a new clutch. everything else was the same. last year was an 11.35 at 125mph.
The Comp Stage 2 UnSprung clutch held up great too! had a little bit of clutch smell after the last 2 passes but no slipping and no lock out. Drove to and from the track. Full street weight. just took the screen off the turbo and put a Velocity stack on it when I got there.
Hoping to hit the dyno later this month and turn it up! Also still need my M&H Rcaemasters mounted too. Id really like to see a 10.7 after.
Video of First pass:
Time Slip Below:
Apr 12, 2017, 08:47 PM
#45
well the unfortunate has happened! After running my 11.0, a few days later I found a puddle of oil under my car. Oil was coming from the lower timing cover. Decided to take everything apart and found my oil pump gear had some play in it and was leaking oil.
after removing the oil pump it was TOAST. but my oil is completely clean and the car never made any noise, whine, no rod knock, nothing. Talked with Curt Brown and was told to slap a new pump on a go! so I'm taking an extra step and having Dan Buschur send out my oil pump gears for REM treatment, hopefully help keep this pump in one piece! car will be down until the end of May.
As long as the engine makes it through this season, I plan on doing a full engine rebuild next winter.
Pics of pump in next post! Me and Curt believe its been going bad for a while, and my HKS Extra strong timing belt put too much strain on it. Not bad for a 100k+ mile oil pump and the last 31k miles with this belt on it.
after removing the oil pump it was TOAST. but my oil is completely clean and the car never made any noise, whine, no rod knock, nothing. Talked with Curt Brown and was told to slap a new pump on a go! so I'm taking an extra step and having Dan Buschur send out my oil pump gears for REM treatment, hopefully help keep this pump in one piece! car will be down until the end of May.
As long as the engine makes it through this season, I plan on doing a full engine rebuild next winter.
Pics of pump in next post! Me and Curt believe its been going bad for a while, and my HKS Extra strong timing belt put too much strain on it. Not bad for a 100k+ mile oil pump and the last 31k miles with this belt on it.